Learning to Handle Recoil

[JTHOMP]

I’m shooting a Savage Model 16 chambered in .308. My uncle gave it to me and I don’t want to not hunt with it for that reason and I’m not big on buying a bunch of guns. The draw back to the gun is that I’m finally admitting that I can’t handle the recoil and it is causing bad shooting habits. This season alone I’ve missed a few pigs and a coyote. The problem is flinching.

I was hoping the scope was off but after rechecking the zero it’s still on. I really want to start actively shooting more with it and in various positions while winded to become more proficient in shooting during hunting situations. The problem is that after 6 shots my shoulder feels like ground meat. It’s not easy to stay steady when you know it’s about to hurt.

So recoil options are trying different pads or a muzzle break. For the muzzle break I don’t like the idea of a louder gun, but I use hearing protection when target shooting and often while hunting. Advise on this would be great instead of buying a bunch of stuff.

Or would I be better off looking for another rifle either heavier build or smaller caliber?

 

[FI460]

The recoil pad on my Stevens 200 .308 might as well have been a wood block. I replaced it with a limb saver and it's much more enjoyable to shoot. I would start there.

 

[rjthehunter]

Start with the limb saver, then add a muzzle brake. They aren't that expensive and make significant changes in recoil. It makes my 338 shoot like a 270. Well worth it. And they're only like $115 or so. Then you have to have the barrel threaded but it's still not that expensive.

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[rwc101]

The new Limbsaver Airtech pads are really nice. The only thing I don't like about it is that it's a bit tacky/sticky on clothes.

I used to not like shooting my 270 WSM due to recoil. I eventually realized my recoil aversion was psychological. Reducing trigger pull and lots of practice with a .22 has helped make my shooting more mechanical, and I don't even notice the recoil now.

 

[Washington Hunter]

Try putting a good recoil pad on it like a Pachmeyr Decelerator or a Limbsaver. In addition to that, use lighter bullets. What are you shooting now? With 150 grain bullets recoil shouldn't be bad. Are you a handloader? If so you could load 130's or 150's on the light side. I'm doing that for my daughter with her 7mm/08, 120 grain bullets at only 2,800 feet per second and recoil isn't much more than a factory .243 100 grain load. You could do the same thing. Or, if you're not a handloader, there are reduced recoil loads available for the 308. I would not put a muzzle brake on a 308. One more option would be a new stock. Maybe a laminated wood stock made by Boyd's, they're very reasonably priced and would add a little weight to your rifle. Or if you want synthetic, look at Bell & Carlson.

 

[FI460]

The new Limbsaver Airtech pads are really nice. The only thing I don't like about it is that it's a bit tacky/sticky on clothes.

I used to not like shooting my 270 WSM due to recoil. I eventually realized my recoil aversion was psychological. Reducing trigger pull and lots of practice with a .22 has helped make my shooting more mechanical, and I don't even notice the recoil now.

Agreed. Reducing trigger pull could also be very helpful. I equate a heavy trigger to giving you more time to anticipate recoil.

 

[Washington Hunter]

I agree about having a light trigger pull. All my rifles have 2 to 2 1/2 pound triggers.

 

[rwc101]

Agreed. Reducing trigger pull could also be very helpful. I equate a heavy trigger to giving you more time to anticipate recoil.

Exactly. Building pressure on a 6lb trigger psyched me out. A crisp 2lb pull doesn't. The same rifle didn't bother me as a teenager when I bought it which leads me to believe a lot of recoil sensitivity is like a pitcher with the yips.

 

[Deleted member 16014]

I mean it sounds like a few things going on...first being the flinch. There's plenty of info around on how to fix that; practice with rimfires, dry firing, etc. You can always drop down in bullet weight as noted above. If you're hunting deer, hogs and coyotes, I don't see the need for more than a .243, or realistically a .223 with a copper bullet if your locality allows.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Lots of ways to reduce perceived recoil on a budget. Confirm proper length of pull (can cut down or add spacers as needed), swap butt pads, add a slip on butt pad, add weight to the stock, confirm proper cheek placement and build up if needed, ensure proper rifle placement on shoulder, buy low recoil ammunition, if you hand load chose a powder that requires lower charge weight, load to lower end of velocity range, go with lighter bullet and moderate velocity, add a muzzle brake (Witt has a cheap clamp on that works well if your rifle is not threaded already). More expensive options include changing cartridge to lower recoil option like 6.5creedmoor or going with a suppressor. There is also a PAST shoulder pad you can use while practicing and hope that you can break the flinch on the range so that your one shot in the field can be tolerated without recoil reduction. Once you get your rifle recoil moderated to your needs do lots and lots of dry fire practice to make sure the flinch goes away and stays away.

 

[Fsmith]

Dry fire to help with the recoil anticipation.

 

[Bambistew]

One thing that helps me, is to shoot reactive targets. Ones that you have to watch through the scope to see if you hit them. It can be a challenge to manage recoil from larger rifles, but a 308, with lighter loads and some of the ideas mentioned above will make it more fun to try.

For me it took my mind off the recoil and put it on the target.

Also look for a Past recoil pad that goes on your shoulder. I use one when shooting heavy recoiling rifles off the bench. It makes for a more enjoyable experience when I'm sending 375s down range. I can run through a couple boxes and be no worse for the wear.

 

[JTHOMP]

I’m shooting 150 grains. Not that heavy.

Dry firing and shooting rimfires will help. I do practice those, and plan to do more. But I can watch a pig roll over dead with my .17hmr yet with one of the misses with the .308 I caught myself flinching in trigger pull, telling myself to focus, and then still missed on a small pig. Maybe it is mental and decreasing the trigger pull sounds like a good idea.

Starting with a limb saver recoil pad sounds like a good place to start for continued live practice with the .308

 

[Pucky Freak]

I'd step down to a smaller caliber and practice with a mix of live rounds and empty chamber to fix the flinch first. Have some one else close the action so you don't know what's coming. Once that's taken care of, move on to the tangible steps others have mentioned. I'm a big fan of crisp light triggers and limbsaver

 

[rjthehunter]

I get this probably isn't the safest way to fix a recoil issue... But my cousin scoped himself and was scared to shoot. I tried to get him to shoot a 12g and he would flinch so hard and close his eyes and not pull the trigger. So I told him to pull it up, and shoot, well I reached over and pulled the trigger and he goes oh, well that wasn't so bad. And he's been good since then... I wouldn't recommend doing that tho.

 

[memtb]

My wife shoots (very accurately) a sub 9 pound, scoped, loaded and slung, 338 WM. The stock was custom fit for her, a Pachmyar Decelerator recoil pad installed, and “does not” have a brake! After that, it was merely the desire to get comfortable with it. Also, good ear protection is a must. Many feel that the muzzle report induces flinch as much or more than does recoil!

She doesn’t shoot it much from the bench, just enough to verify the zero. From field positions, the recoil isn’t bad. In fact, she’s taken 1 elk from prone position!

Good fit, good shooting mechanics, and good ear protection.....and you should be able to conquer your recoil issues! Good Luck. Let us know what you did and the results! memtb

 

[Oregon_Ryan]

Every one here is offering great advice. There are two recoil related issues you're dealing with here- physical recoil and perceived recoil. Physical recoil is the "physics formula" recoil produced by firing the cartridge. This recoil you can mitigate through inertia, such as a heavier rifle (more mass for the recoil to move against), recoil pads, muzzle brakes, and most importantly, good shooting positions. Personally, I cannot get a good shooting position at a bench, and my shoulder reflects that whenever I shoot at a range that requires shooting from benches. Standing? Kneeling? Prone? I haven't had a problem with recoil in those positions, provided I have good form.

Another way to manage physical recoil is using sling support. When you're in a good shooting position, and you are using a sling to snug the rifle tight to your body, you are doing two things to manage recoil. You are 1) adding your body weight to the mass providing an inertial resistance to the recoil by being physically connected to the rifle stock and 2) by having the stock snug to the shoulder pocket, you are reducing any travel between the butt plate / pad and your shoulder. That can change the recoil from a hard, sharp slap to the shoulder to a more "rolling" like feel.

Perceived recoil is how you perceive the physical recoil. The tips above about dry fire, rim fire, mixing in live rounds with empty chambers (safely, on a range, have a friend help you) are all free to inexpensive to work on and will work! If you put the time using these methods into managing perceived recoil, then it makes sense to put the money into different recoil pads, muzzle brakes, adjusting LOP, etc. Those adjustments and mods, combined with the training should massively raise your confidence with the rifle and how you react to recoil.

 

[Tjay]

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These are another option to consider

 

[JTHOMP]

Wanted to give an update on this thread. I purchased a limb saver recoil pad and that thing makes a huge difference. Gun still has a lot of kick but it is much more manageable. I’ll need to adjust the scope for the additional length added to the stock, but feels comfortable shouldering.

I feel now I can at least shoot more to become more comfortable with the gun. Going to put a pad on my 35 Wheelen too.

 

[LCH]

One of my 30/06 rifles is zeroed with Hornady "lite" ammo. Doesn't kick bad at all. I've shot several deer and a couple pronghorn with it, no problem at all.