First attempt at “long range” shooting.

[Gila]

I don't see how you can hit anything standing up. I don't consider shots under 400 yards long range myself. With most longer shots it is hurry up and sit down, lase the target (if enough time) eye ball the holdover and send the round. Most of my shots have been sitting with a bipod. Some with a backpack. I like the ability to dial up a shot if the opportunity presents itself. If you are going to eyeball the holdover using the MOA reticle, one must understand that the MOA values between gradients changes with power settings for a 2nd focal plane. With a 1st focal plane scope the MOA values remain static throughout the range of power settings. It all came together for me when I started using Strelok Pro. A 15 dollar phone app that is worth every penny if you ask me.

 

[RockinU]

That is correct, usually a 2nd plane scope, the measurements are only correct at the highest mag.

 

[BuzzH]

Lots of guys all over the place on this thread. Holdover and multiple reticles aren’t the way to go. Spinning turrets isn’t a big deal and the way to fly...no debate. Tough to beat poa/poi intersection when shooting beyond zero. If it were me I would consider a 200-250 yard zero if you’re going to mainly shoot under 300-400. No sense in twisting turrets inside 300, imo.

This stuff really isn’t as tough as people are making it.

Npaden if you need some help there’s a few guys on this board that know their stuff.

 

[cahunter805]

Npaden
Plenty has already been offered but I’d suggest a few things.

You can easily make a zero stop for your MOA cap. All you need is to drill a small shallow hole and use a small ball bearing. 1/16” I think.
Here is a good link to it.

Leupold CDS MOA zero stop----How to

Sent in a Leupold 2-7x33 VX-I to Leupold to retrofit a CDS MOA dial. Forgot to ask if zero stop was possible with the plain MOA dial, but the scope came back with no zero stop. This scope is mounted on a 16" 6.5 Grendel in AR15 config. No zero stop, NO problem!! If you desir...

www.24hourcampfire.com

I would find a spot to shoot 400 and not have to be standing. Get prone or even off your pack. Get comfortable and get a solid rear rest. Practice your body position and see how your groups are then. Practice good cheek weld and follow through on your shots.

A scope level can be helpful to deal with cant but not necessary if 400 is your limit.

Most importantly have fun and practice, practice and practice.

 

[ImBillT]

Glad to see you figured out your biggest problem. I’m not a big fan of dialing in the field or mid-relay. A real chronograph velocity, an accurate measurement of the distance of the sight above the bore, and a POI at 2-3 known distances to correct for actual BC instead of the BC on the box will all help you get a little closer.

 

[Mallardsx2]

Personally, I think you did better than 90% of the people could have done one here....

Keep up the good work.

 

[sbhooper]

You taught yourself a valuable lesson-understand your equipment, before using it! I would probably never take a shot that long in the field, unless I was prone, or had an extremely solid tree branch, or something. You need to get an exact velocity on your load, in order to be exact at shots that are starting to stretch the range. The dialing scopes are fantastic, if you have time to use them-and usually out that far you do. I don't do a lot of dialing, as my range only goes to 530 yards, but I know my scopes and loads are on out that far. I just have never seen a need to shoot game even even out to my 530 limit. I have never failed to be able to get closer to my target.

Unfortunately, it is being shoved down people's throats, that if you don't shoot long range, then you don't know anything. It is leading people to believe that if they buy the scope and rifle that SUPPOSEDLY works for long range, then they can just start flinging lead. The true essence of hunting is fading from sight.

 

[RockinU]

I don’t know that anyone should have to learn long range shooting, or the principles involved, but I think that if they are going to attempt long range shots it’s incumbent on them to first learn how, and preferably to practice.

 

[rwc101]

Anyone have book recommendations for long range shooting? I have no desire to shoot real far in the field, but I would like to practice some longer shots.

 

[RockinU]

I haven’t read it yet, but just this last weekend a friend was telling me that he’d read Ryan Cleckner’s book, and that it was good on basics.

I have another, that I’ll pass along the title to when I get home and find it.

 

[npaden]

You taught yourself a valuable lesson-understand your equipment, before using it!

It is leading people to believe that if they buy the scope and rifle that SUPPOSEDLY works for long range, then they can just start flinging lead. The true essence of hunting is fading from sight.

That is the primary reason for me posting this thread. Just because you have a scope with dials (that some might send in to get etched based on the ballistics on the box of ammo), or you buy a fancy range finding ballistic calculating binocular, you need to get out to the range and practice. I thought I was just going to dial it up and fling some lead at the target and have a nice group to take a picture of. I made about 5 different mistakes that I was able to learn from.

1. Know your equipment. I think I will end up with this more than once but from the start I was off when I was ranging 357 meters and thinking it was 357 yards. Nothing in the view indicated meters vs yards and I just didn't realize that I needed to set it up as US or EU to change between yards and meters.
2. Know your MOA and how it relates to clicks. I knew this (I always sight in a rifle at 25 yards first and the clicks are 4 times more at 25 yards than at 100 yards), but when I dialed my scope the first time I just forgot about it.
3. Make sure you turn your scope the correct way. I still don't know how I messed this up not once, not twice, but I think 3 times. Now I am going to use the numbers as much as the U with the arrow to know which way to turn. If I start moving it up it will start with a lower number and go up to a bigger number.
4. Wind makes a big difference at 390 yards. It blows most of the time where I live so I should be able to practice that part of it.
5. Know your equipment. I watched a couple youtube videos on how to setup my binoculars but didn't catch the part about telling the binoculars how many clicks your scope has to move it 1" at 100 yards. I had it set on 1-3 which I thought was the same as the US3 ballistic chart but instead it was saying that my scope was 3 clicks to move 1" at 100 yards. I think I have that solved now.

I was intentionally making it harder on myself by shooting standing and using the ladder as a rest to somewhat mimic real world conditions. Most likely that isn't helping me figure out the equipment part of things as I'm sure some of my issue is poor shooting. I felt pretty good on most of my shots but was not near as steady as if I would have been shooting off a bench or even a backpack resting on a rock or something like that. I need to build a platform to put on my deck that will get me a better place to shoot from if I am going to continue to attempt longer shots. I want to get confident at 400 yards before trying to stretch it any further.

Thanks for the input everyone. I really appreciate it.

Nathan

 

[tzone]

Yeah, I knew that but forgot it evidently! I've never adjusted my scope before for yardage in the field. I used to have a BDC reticle that I felt pretty good out to about 300 yards and other than that have just kept my shots to 300 yards or less and aimed a bit high based on the distance. Calculating clicks at odd ranges like 357 or 390 yards is hard though. I for sure appreciate my new fancy binoculars more than ever now.

I guess I could calculate the clicks and tape it to my gun stock or send in my dial to Leupold and have them put the yardage on there, but with the binoculars I just hit the range button and it tells me the clicks. I think I need to go to the next ballistic chart over from the one that I used originally based on real world shooting. The ballistic chart I'm using shows 23" drop at 400 yards and it looks like I'm about 2 or 3 inches lower than that based on those 2 shots anyway. The next chart over shows 26" drop at 400 yards so I think I'm going to switch to that one for now.

I may try a few shots tomorrow and see if I can actually hit the target this time!

Where are you finding the "charts" for your drops?

Thanks for posting this. I'm also new to longer ranges other than my 100yd pokes in the thick woods here!

 

[npaden]

Where are you finding the "charts" for your drops?

Thanks for posting this. I'm also new to longer ranges other than my 100yd pokes in the thick woods here!

Leica Ballistics programme

Leica Ballistics programme Including Ballistic Calculator for Geovid HD-B

us.leica-camera.com

It has several pre-programmed drops that you match up to what it shows on your box of ammo. You download them a little way down that page. Then you go out and practice and see how well it matches up.

I don't think they would be useful for anyone that isn't using a Leica HD-B binocular though.

 

[ImBillT]

Sounds like you’ve got it fairly worked out. Let us know how you do next time.

 

[BrentD]

jbm ballistics webpages are a great place for figuring out things like this.

JBM - Calculations - Trajectory

www.jbmballistics.com

 

[std7mag]

Fully understand the dilema of working things out for the first time.
Hopefully we all can get you headed in the right direction.

First off, do you have a chrono, or access to a friends chrono? You need a close estimation of your velocity.
2nd. After finding velocity with chrono, true your velocity by shooting at longer ranger and checking your target.
3rd. Get mobile ballistic app for your phone. Personally i use Strelok Pro.
4th. Start reloading! Connecting at distances takes practice.
5th. Get with someone that already shoots long range. Amazing the bad habbits we have.

 

[Gila]

I have had few opportunities to dial up with my past hunting experiences. Being able to use the reticle to eyeball the holdover has been critical in most of my situations. The fact is there are ALOT of variables that goes into the click of a turret.That's why they have ballistics programs. Wind and other environmental data is also critical for windage clicks. You can do it with cheat sheets or a phone app. Muzzle velocity from a chrono is important, yes, but it won't punch your ticket. Is long range shooting rocket science? You betcha!

 

[tzone]

Leica Ballistics programme

Leica Ballistics programme Including Ballistic Calculator for Geovid HD-B

us.leica-camera.com

It has several pre-programmed drops that you match up to what it shows on your box of ammo. You download them a little way down that page. Then you go out and practice and see how well it matches up.

I don't think they would be useful for anyone that isn't using a Leica HD-B binocular though.

Gotchya. Thank you!

 

[MinnesotaHunter]

To butcher Patton's Quote: "Amateurs debate range correcting, professionals talk wind".

Bottom line, compensating for ranging is predictable and objective, wind requires alot more skill. Most real skilled LR shooters I know are good because they know how to read wind.

 

[kiwi hunter]

or simply get a burris eliminator scope,,good out to 700 plus