Hairy Beasts and Smell Korns

Friday comes along and I pick up my youngest from school and my youngest and I head down to goat camp. He is super excited as he doesn't get many trips with just him and I. We drive through the park on the way there and the only stop we make is at a couple of spots where you can usually spot goats. We spot a few along the cliffs at Barronette Peak in the usual spot.

We are in a bit of a time crunch to get there and get camp set up with enough time to do a little scouting trip so he continue on. I am concerned there may be people where I want to camp but I had a couple of spots as options. We slowly make our way to where I want to camp and sure enough, there is already a group here. So we go down the road just a bit farther and find a flat spot I had found the weekend before during the scouting trip. We set up the canvas tent and get everything unloaded just in time to get a quick trip around the area on the 4 wheeler.

Goat Camp.jpg

The sun beaming off these cliffs every evening we were there was beautiful. You may recognize these cliffs as the ones I had spotted the mature Billy the previous weekend. This way the kids and I could hunt around camp and even watch the cliffs from camp during the day to see if he would show up again.
 
My youngest and I spent Saturday riding around on the four wheeler, exploring a few roads I hadn't had a chance to drive and looking for goats. I also talked to multiple tag holders in the area, including once group that was camped at the trailhead I eventually planned on heading in to. If they were camped at the trailhead I wasn't worried about them hunting where I wanted to. I did talk to one guy with horses that was heading into the drainage I was most interested in. He said he would be at the very lower end of the drainage and I wasn't planning on going down that far. Of the 12 tag holders I probably talked to 8 or 9 of them that day or the next. Many of them weren't even really hunting yet as they wanted to wait for better hair on the goats.

So the youngest and I scouted all day and he enjoyed it while we waited for the rest of the crew to get to camp.

View from Camp.jpg

View from camp during the late morning.


Mule deer.jpg
We saw lots of wildlife including this guy. But unfortunately we did not spot a single goat all day. I talked to one guy that had seen a group of 4 or 5 nannies and kids but that was it.

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My son enjoyed some of the very rough and steep roads that we bombed around on all day.

Beartooth sunset.jpg
I even ran into a group that was hiking in for a bison hunt. A nice family and they had drawn one of the 5 wilderness bison tags and were hiking into the area to explore with the idea that they would come back with around 12 horses to carry in/out camp and hopefully a bison. I can only imagine the undertaking it is to do a wilderness bison hunt with the size of those animals. Would be a fun hunt but nobody can expect to draw that tag when there are only 5 of them.

That evening the rest of the crew arrived and we were all primed for opening day of goat season the following morning. I had a plan that involved taking my oldest son out with me in the morning to hopefully find a goat near camp.
 
I forgot to mention that on Saturday morning my son and I spotted two individuals headed with loaded packs head up over the ridge near camp. They went directly over the highest peak just to the right of my picutre of camp above. I could not tell if they were hunters or not but assumed they were. I couldn't believe where they were headed. You could tell one guy was experienced and knew where to go but the other was just following his buddy. I guessed they were looking for the same billy I had seen the week before and were headed into the next drainage to look for him. After talking to most of the tag holders it was apparent that a good portion of the hunters were aware of this particular billy. He apparently had been hanging out next to where I was camped for most of the summer.

We spotted these two later scaling over the top of another peak up the ridge a little farther. Several other goat hunters were standing with me when I pointed them out and we couldn't figure out what they were doing. It was some steep stuff they were traversing though.
 
The next morning my oldest son and I got up before first light and hopped on the four wheeler to get a little closer to the cliffs near camp, in case a goat was around. There were 2 mule deer walking around camp when we got up and headed out. We did the short drive to the base of the cliffs and started walking from there. As it got light, there didn't appear to be any goats around. However we couldn't see all of it from any one vantage point so we spent some time climbing around the rocks and getting some different views.
Opening morning.jpg

Still nothing spotted so we back to the four wheeler to go to an overlook that looked into another valley and check that out. After some time I spotted some aimals near a ridge int he distance. From such a distance and in the low light it was hard to tell but eventually determined they were bighorn sheep off in the distance. There was about 15 of them. Probably the same group I had seen the weekend before. They were in some crazy steep stuff that was more goat country than what I would call sheep country.

By the time we were done scoping out that valley it was mid morning and already warming up. We headed back to camp for some hot breakfast as you can see this was a super hard hunt. I also knew the youngest would want to go out for a bit. It was a beautiful day and shortly after breakfast we were all angling for the only shade to be found in camp.



Goat Camp shade.jpg

The afternoon I took a drive with the youngest. No goats spotted and after talking to many other hunters nobody else had seen anything either. It was warm so I wasn't surprised there wasn't much activity. We spent most of the day relaxing in camp and keeping an eye on the cliffs but nothing popped out.

In the evening I took both sons up to the overlook we had seen the sheep from in the morning.

Boys watching Moose from the overlook.jpg

From this location we spotted all sorts of animals. The bighorn sheep were still in view. There was a herd of mule deer just below us and from this vantage point we spotted 7 different moose. But NO goats!

The ridge in the picture above that is above my sons is the one the 2 guys had walked the previous day. When we got back to camp I was told that the two guys had come back from the way they went. Apparently the folks in camp could see them take one step down a rock slide and then slide about 10 feet before they took another step with rocks falling everywhere. My buddy that had shown up was getting concerned that he was going to be the greenhorn in a similar situation when we took off the following day for the backcountry portion of the trip.
 
Back in April I found out I drew a special Bull elk permit for Montana after 17 years of putting in. This is one of the premier tags in Montana and the area is quite well known and rhymes with Smell Korns. If you can't get it from that, I can't help you. I have a statistics background and my analysis before the season, even with 17 points only had me at about a 3.6% chance of drawing this tag so I was ecstatic. While I knew this tag was not what it once was, living right next to the district, I always put in with the idea that some day I would get to hunt those mountains I can see from my living room. I have never hunted the district, always staying out of it because personally I don't want to hunt a district that I can't even shoot a big bull if I do happen to see one. It is also a thing for me that I just generally stay out of the district to allow the people that do draw these tags their best chance at a quality hunt. So I started reaching out to friends and others that I knew had hunted the tag recently, some of those folks were people on this forum and had plans of scouting all summer to learn the district and where I wanted to hunt.
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My scouting started pretty much the next day, even though it was April and bulls wouldn't have much if any kind of head gear. Its a solid 8 miles according to google from my living room to an area that holds elk but I was able to spot a few from my perch out my front window. My original plan would be to do a fair amount of scouting, including putting out several game cameras during the summer and determine what kind of bull I would be looking for during the season. I hunt both the archery and rifle seasons so I would have ample oppurtunities to chase elk in those hills. I also started clearing my schedule up a bit and making sure I didn't schedule anything during the fall. For example I planned on coaching my youngest in football this year for 3rd grade flag football but that would have to wait until next year.

Then at the beginning of May I had a work trip that sent me to Detroit. When landing and first getting to my hotel I remembered that today was most likely the day the moose, sheep and goat tags results would come out. Once again I knew from my analysis before the season that I had about a 12.3% chance of drawing any one of the Big 3. Part of me was hoping that this wasn't the year as I was already starting my planning and scouting for elk. Laying on the bed of the hotel I pulled up the results and with 14 points it said "Successful" for mountain goat! I could not believe it, matter of fact I went back and double/triple/quadruple checked the results. Sure enough I had basically a once in a lifetime elk tag and a once in a lifetime goat tag in my pocket for the same fall. One way or another this was going to be an epic fall, whether it was crash and burn style or hunter hero style.

My goat district is a district with very few roads and mostly a backpack style hunt. This is the exactly kind of tough backcountry hunt that I wanted for a goat and the reason I applied for this particular district. Originally I had hoped to have a summer of scouting and backcountry flyfishing as part of my goat plan. But with 2 premier tags I wasn't sure how much of this was going to become a reality. I have never hunted goats or had any of the Big 3 tags so the excitement I had was pretty astronomical. My first step was to purchase and read the big "A Beast the Color of Winter" and learn as much as I could about goats. I did know that I wanted a mature Billy, even though it is technically an either sex tag.
I’m most curious about your stats math since you seem to have a background in that. Everything I understand the odds remain below 1% for everything limited that has antlers/horns. My guess is you didn’t account for other applicants bonus points? Don’t be giving me that much false hope. I’ll PM you article discussing this unit specifically.

Edit: Here is the thread that discusses what I was thinking of:

 
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The next morning my oldest son and I got up before first light and hopped on the four wheeler to get a little closer to the cliffs near camp, in case a goat was around. There were 2 mule deer walking around camp when we got up and headed out. We did the short drive to the base of the cliffs and started walking from there. As it got light, there didn't appear to be any goats around. However we couldn't see all of it from any one vantage point so we spent some time climbing around the rocks and getting some different views.
View attachment 360307

Still nothing spotted so we back to the four wheeler to go to an overlook that looked into another valley and check that out. After some time I spotted some aimals near a ridge int he distance. From such a distance and in the low light it was hard to tell but eventually determined they were bighorn sheep off in the distance. There was about 15 of them. Probably the same group I had seen the weekend before. They were in some crazy steep stuff that was more goat country than what I would call sheep country.

By the time we were done scoping out that valley it was mid morning and already warming up. We headed back to camp for some hot breakfast as you can see this was a super hard hunt. I also knew the youngest would want to go out for a bit. It was a beautiful day and shortly after breakfast we were all angling for the only shade to be found in camp.



View attachment 360308

The afternoon I took a drive with the youngest. No goats spotted and after talking to many other hunters nobody else had seen anything either. It was warm so I wasn't surprised there wasn't much activity. We spent most of the day relaxing in camp and keeping an eye on the cliffs but nothing popped out.

In the evening I took both sons up to the overlook we had seen the sheep from in the morning.

View attachment 360309

From this location we spotted all sorts of animals. The bighorn sheep were still in view. There was a herd of mule deer just below us and from this vantage point we spotted 7 different moose. But NO goats!

The ridge in the picture above that is above my sons is the one the 2 guys had walked the previous day. When we got back to camp I was told that the two guys had come back from the way they went. Apparently the folks in camp could see them take one step down a rock slide and then slide about 10 feet before they took another step with rocks falling everywhere. My buddy that had shown up was getting concerned that he was going to be the greenhorn in a similar situation when we took off the following day for the backcountry portion of the trip.
Beautiful pictures! Enjoying your story as I had the same tag in 2022. Selfishly wishing that a friend or family member of mine draws so I can return to this landscape with goats on the mind
 
As it happened our camp was pretty much right in between where we had seen the two separate grizzlies the weekend before. This is a known grizzly area and so we were being careful with our food and all the requirements of being in grizzly country. My buddy was sleeping in his vehicle while my 3 kids, me and the girlfriend were all in the tent.

As I've mentioned on Hunt Talk before I have cochlear implants and can't hear ANYTHING at night because I don't sleep with them in. I sleep quite well and over and years during my backpacking trips I have woken up many times to evidence of animals being right next to my tent while I was obliviously asleep.

In the middle of the night I get awoken by somebody vigorously tapping me. Then a light comes on and I can see my girlfriend sitting up and pointing in the direction outside the tent. I immediately sit up and get situated so I can hear. She was sleeping on one edge of the tent and her head was in a corner. She told me she could hear some sniffing and breathing noises right next to her head outside the tent. She thought she was dreaming it but then something poked the tent and pushed at her. She pushed back and it pushed back. I asked if it felt like a big animal or a small one. She didn't know.

I had specifically put a very high powered flashlight in the tent for just this kind of circumstance. By now everybody is awake and I start making noise to let whatever animal is out there know that we are in here. I am searching for the flashlight and after a few minutes of tearing the tent apart I am informed by one of my kids that they had it out by the campfire. Well if you have kids, you know that it never got put back in the tent. We do have a couple little headlamps in there. So I take one, open the tent up, take a quick look around and don't see eyeballs or anything and proceed to go get the high powered flashlight. After getting to it I shine the light all across the hillside and don't see eyeballs or an animal anywhere. My buddy is also up as he saw the lights on and said he hadn't heard or seen anything.

There is of course lots of discussion about what animal it could have been. When we wake up in the morning to go on our hunt the same 2 deer that have been around camp every morning are out there. My guess is it was one of those 2 mule deer but we will never know.
 
Monday morning we do a similar hunt that we did on Sunday, looking around the nearby area for the billy I had seen the previous weekend. No luck and no goats spotted at all. It being Monday we did another quick morning hunt and then headed back to camp to help tear it down. I also had to fully pack my Mystery Ranch Marshall for the backcountry hunt. I had been using my Eberlestock for the scouting and day hunts from camp.

Kids at Goat Camp.jpg

It took a while to get camp all packed up and my gear all ready to go for the trip. We sent the girlfriend back towards home with the kids while my buddy and I finalized packing. My plan was to leave my truck near where we had been camping and take the four-wheeler in to the trailhead. It is a very steep and rough road to get in there and I didn't want to have to do it with the 4-wheeler in the back. My buddy had driven the road a few times the last 2 days to scout it and decided he was going to take in his Jeep all the way to the trailhead. He was a bit nervous about it, but he was up for the adventure, and this was just step one of several new things he would be tackling on this trip.

So the trip in to the trailhead went smoothly and was uneventful. We talked to the goat hunters that were camped there, and the report was nobody had shot a goat yet and very few had been sighted. They were getting frustrated and to put it nicely were not the most cordial hunters we saw on the trip. The good news was they were not hunting where I planned to go into.

This was the part of the trip I was excited and the kind of goat hunt I wanted. A backcountry trip where my camp would be about 3 miles in and we would be hunting farther in from there.
 
The hike in was rather uneventful. It was another very warm day so it felt strange to be technically be hunting in shorts. We didn't see any goats on the hike in. About halfway in, and just after we left the trail we could hear voices ahead of us. Two guys were coming down from the ridge we were headed up to.

Both of these guys turned out to be very friendly guys from Wyoming. Neither had the tag but their buddy, who they had left in the drainage we were headed to had a tag and would be going further down the drainage. They informed us that they had watched the tag holder from the group that was camped at the trailhead shoot his goat. It was apparently a 2.5 yr old billy that they shot on top of a cliff and it fell about 1,000 feet before it stopped. What horns it had were just nubbins by the time it came to a complete stop. But this was good news to me as it meant one less goat hunter in the area. They also informed us that in the morning the cliffs at the head end of the drainage had a nanny and two kids on it and that a bear had walked through their camp the night before. When they told me where they had put camp I wasn't shocked.

So we continued up the hill. My buddy at this time was getting a bit nervous as we were approaching the ridge I had been telling him about for weeks now. I was a bit nervous also as I hadn't done it with a full pack. We got to the top of the ridge and that is where it gets interesting. Its a straight drop off to your right and is really steep off to the left. There is a bit of a goat trail on the very top that made for the easiest walking but you had to get used to the heights. I was mostly just concerned about one 15 foot stretch or so.

After getting over the initial nervousness/shock of where you are walking it gets easier. The ridge is a beautiful walk with great views and it is a clear day in every direction. We slowly walk the ridge, taking our time and making sure to not make any mistakes. Then we get to the stretch I was concerned about. At this spot it is straight down on your right about 1,500 feet and on your left is a very steep wash. There is about a foot wide "path" right at the top. I had walked around it on my scouting trip by going down the wash a bit. The problem was footing is really sketchy here. My plan was to do that again. With a pack on that proved to be a scary 15 foot stretch where I was holding on to the hillside by just by what felt like a toe and maybe a couple fingernails. My buddy determined the best way to go was crawl across the 1 foot path at the top. We both made it across but neither one of us was happy with our method of getting across it, knowing we had to go back across to get back to the truck.

Not far after this is the head of the drainage I wanted to hunt. Sure enough, there were 3 goats on the cliffs above it, a nanny and two kids. We dropped down the ridge and I had a spot in mind about 1,000 feet elevation down that I thought would be a good camp spot that I believed there would be water nearby. We got down there and there was a small creek about 150 yards from where I camped so this would be perfect.

We spent the evening glassing the cliffs for other goats, watching the nanny and two kids criss cross all over the cliffs, hanging out food about 100 yards from camp and getting everything set up. About halfway through setting up the tent I kept smelling huckleberries and couldn't figure out why. Then I started looking around and all the brush that we were camping in was huckleberries. The brush was only about 6 inches high and the berries were about the size of a pinhead but moving around in them made the smell come up as we smashed them. I wasn't too pleased we were in a huckleberry patch but looking around there really wasn't anywhere to get out of it.

Just before it got dark I spotted a group of goats about 2.5 miles down the drainage. There were 5 or 6 of them. From this distance I couldn't tell for sure if any were billies but with a group that size I was guessing they were nannies/kids. But we were just excited to be seeing goats with a big hunt planned for the next day.
 
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