Traditional Cap Guns - Let's See 'em!

[Dsnow9]

If anyone needs a match maker in this type of thing reach out to @BrentD. Thanks again! Can’t wait to learn how to do all this stuff!
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[Nate Eller]

Not to revive an old thread, but anyone that says front stuffers aren't accurate can't shoot

 

[treydfoster]

Mines just a plain Jane 50 caliber T/C Hawken. How far are you guys killing deer with PRB? At 50 I’m shooting about a four inch group, offhand, with the occasional flier. I couldn’t shrink the group much at all shooting off a bench. I’d hate to try to shoot one over 75 yards away. I know guys shoot the conicals but I’d really like to shoot one with a ball.

I’m shooting .490, .015 pre lubed patches, and 80 grains of Hogdon Triple 7 FFg.

 

[shb]

Dialed loads slung with young eyes can keep em at an inch and a half at hunert and 15 yards.

 

[shb]

Benched

 

[Dan O]

Mines just a plain Jane 50 caliber T/C Hawken. How far are you guys killing deer with PRB? At 50 I’m shooting about a four inch group, offhand, with the occasional flier. I couldn’t shrink the group much at all shooting off a bench. I’d hate to try to shoot one over 75 yards away. I know guys shoot the conicals but I’d really like to shoot one with a ball.

I’m shooting .490, .015 pre lubed patches, and 80 grains of Hogdon Triple 7 FFg.

Try a .018 or .020 patch lubed with Track of the Wolf mink oil lube. Then go with BP 2f or 3f start with 70 grains and work your way up 5 grains at a time to 100 grains or where your accuracy comes together.

 

[treydfoster]

Try a .018 or .020 patch lubed with Track of the Wolf mink oil lube. Then go with BP 2f or 3f start with 70 grains and work your way up 5 grains at a time to 100 grains or where your accuracy comes together.

So explain to me a little about lube? Is it not enough to use a pre lubed patch? Also how hard should it be to start my ball, it’s pretty easy to shove in with my thumb

 

[Dan O]

So explain to me a little about lube? Is it not enough to use a pre lubed patch? Also how hard should it be to start my ball, it’s pretty easy to shove in with my thumb

Some patches are pre lubed and packaged. You never know how long they sit. I believe you lose the reliability of the lube over time. Cold weather is another issue does it work okay when below freezing? Mink oil is recommended by a number of guys that hunt in cold weather and they can leave their ML's loaded for days at a time and not harm the powder. There are many different recipes for lubes and everybody has their preference's. Another I've heard is pure Neats foot oil either straight or half and half with Mink oil. I have not tried this myself. I bought some Neats foot oil but have not shot it yet.

As for starting the ball and patch most people use a short starter then finish with your ramrod. I have Delrin rods that are hard to break with both my TC and Green River rifles. A tight ball and patch is important to accuracy. A good lube helps your patch from burning up and coming apart plus fowling control. Sometimes you will find accuracy nodes with a light load and again with a heavy load. Thats why trying a ladder test is helpful. Personally, I use either Goex or Swiss black powder in 2f or 3f. 2f is my go-to powder in the 50 and the 58.
I hope this answers your questions. Traditional muzzleloaders are fun but it takes some range time and getting information from others. Maybe check for clubs in your area that could really be fun and very helpful. Good luck and have fun.

 

[BrentD]

Some patches are pre lubed and packaged. You never know how long they sit. I believe you lose the reliability of the lube over time. Cold weather is another issue does it work okay when below freezing? Mink oil is recommended by a number of guys that hunt in cold weather and they can leave their ML's loaded for days at a time and not harm the powder. There are many different recipes for lubes and everybody has their preference's. Another I've heard is pure Neats foot oil either straight or half and half with Mink oil. I have not tried this myself. I bought some Neats foot oil but have not shot it yet.

As for starting the ball and patch most people use a short starter then finish with your ramrod. I have Delrin rods that are hard to break with both my TC and Green River rifles. A tight ball and patch is important to accuracy. A good lube helps your patch from burning up and coming apart plus fowling control. Sometimes you will find accuracy nodes with a light load and again with a heavy load. Thats why trying a ladder test is helpful. Personally, I use either Goex or Swiss black powder in 2f or 3f. 2f is my go-to powder in the 50 and the 58.
I hope this answers your questions. Traditional muzzleloaders are fun but it takes some range time and getting information from others. Maybe check for clubs in your area that could really be fun and very helpful. Good luck and have fun.

Dan, I do not find it makes much difference. My prelubed Wonder wads and Oxyokes are years old. Maybe a decade. They work just fine for me.

I tend to leave my flintlock or percussion rifles loaded for the entire Iowa ML season - which is variably 22ish days long.

I use .535" balls and 0.015" patches in all weather. Can be started with the ramrod, but a bit safer and easier with a short starter. If I could thumb them in, they would be too loose in my opinion.

Sometimes I put a felt wad between patch and powder. But only if I am showing some burn through on the patches. Always inspect your patches after firing!

Everybody's mileage may vary, of coufse.

 

[BAKPAKR]

Dan, I do not find it makes much difference. My prelubed Wonder wads and Oxyokes are years old. Maybe a decade. They work just fine for me.

I tend to leave my flintlock or percussion rifles loaded for the entire Iowa ML season - which is variably 22ish days long.

I use .535" balls and 0.015" patches in all weather. Can be started with the ramrod, but a bit safer and easier with a short starter. If I could thumb them in, they would be too loose in my opinion.

Sometimes I put a felt wad between patch and powder. But only if I am showing some burn through on the patches. Always inspect your patches after firing!

Everybody's mileage may vary, of coufse.

On my 54 cal T/C Renegade, I was sort of like Goldilocks — but I got the patch thickness down on the second try. The patches I used the first year I hunted with it were too tight, and I thought there was a real possibility that I would break my ramrod reloading. I had rushed things that year, having only decided to try our Heritage hunt after seeing a certain buck. I had to use the components I could find that late in the year. I got a thinner patch the next year and all was good.