BrentD
Well-known member
If you need a whole bunch of green ash,it would save me some burning
.Or a big walnut and or red oak...
Which Stihl Saw?
- Thread starter VikingsGuy
- Start date
.Or a big walnut and or red oak...
belshawelk
Well-known member
I have a 28” and 32” and 36”. Took off all the stupid safety crap.
I can't tell you model numbers but own several Stihl saws and can tell you this.
They have a workhorse grade model and a lightweight homeowners model.
I've got two 16" Stihls, bought the second one for my cabin without looking too closely at it. The older one has two nuts to hold the bar on and newer one has one. After using it for a while the newer one is a much lighter weight piece of junk, the bar and chain are narrower, etc. Engine is a dog and it doesn't cut as fast. Guessing it was made for homeowners trimming a few backyard limbs. It's not much better than a cheap Poulan saw.
Look them over and get the heavy duty model.
They have a workhorse grade model and a lightweight homeowners model.
I've got two 16" Stihls, bought the second one for my cabin without looking too closely at it. The older one has two nuts to hold the bar on and newer one has one. After using it for a while the newer one is a much lighter weight piece of junk, the bar and chain are narrower, etc. Engine is a dog and it doesn't cut as fast. Guessing it was made for homeowners trimming a few backyard limbs. It's not much better than a cheap Poulan saw.
Look them over and get the heavy duty model.
millerkiller77
Well-known member
I use a MS250 for firewood and light trimming, really love that little saw.
For larger cuts I use a MS311 with a 20" bar and it feels slightly underpowered to me, definitely cuts slower than the 250 and I would not buy a 311 again.
Like @mtmuley posted early in this thread, I'm not a fan of the electronics on a saw and would steer clear of any saw using injectors. I purchased a Stihl TS500i and the fuel injector went bad (supposedly from the premix I was using). The repair bill was$ 750 and a hard pill to swallow for a tool I only use one a year at the most. Injector went bad before the factory blade was worn out.....
For larger cuts I use a MS311 with a 20" bar and it feels slightly underpowered to me, definitely cuts slower than the 250 and I would not buy a 311 again.
Like @mtmuley posted early in this thread, I'm not a fan of the electronics on a saw and would steer clear of any saw using injectors. I purchased a Stihl TS500i and the fuel injector went bad (supposedly from the premix I was using). The repair bill was$ 750 and a hard pill to swallow for a tool I only use one a year at the most. Injector went bad before the factory blade was worn out.....
The old non chipped saws are better hands down.
I wondered about those fuely saws. I have a 038 that I think I am going to have rebuilt. Love the saw, but a newer one will be needed eventually. mtmuley
Matt Dworak
Well-known member
I’d recommend two saws. I run a 461 on my mill but if I were doing it again I’d go bigger. The 461 is a lot of saw to be dragging thru the hills (doable for small jobs but wears you out unnecessarily). I’ll grab one of my smaller saw for felling/limbing.
RoughCountry
Well-known member
I would get the MS 500i or the MS 462 also a 461 is a monster. I have found over the years if you are doing a lot of felling and bucking with bigger trees these bigger more powerful saws are a little heavier but with the added power it is less work because they cut so much faster, where the smaller saws are fighting to get through the bigger pieces which cause more work and longer saw running time to do what the bigger saws do so efficiently.
rjthehunter
Well-known member
Go with a commercial grade saw whatever you go with. Cost more, but you get significantly better quality. I made the mistake of not going commercial the first time around. I'm just waiting for my 450 Rancher to create problems for me before switching to something like a 562xp.
Redmt
Well-known member
My newest saws are the 250(1)? and the 391. I have a near new 390 that my hand grip can't easily start. The 391 has a compression release. For my big saw I have an Echo 750 EVL. I gave up on the chainsaw mills as a PITA and bought a new Woodland HM 130 max
RoughCountry
Well-known member
If you’re going to be cutting a lot get the 500i or the 462 and for around $350 or so pick up the lighter MS250 for limbing or bucking small logs. I’ve been using two saws for a long time and it has made it really big difference ! Fell a big tree with the big saw then buck it until you get into the smaller stuff and pick up the 250.
Best thing I ever did was years ago I spent some time with a Stihl tech and he explained the correct way to operate a Stihl saw. Stihl is probably the best saws made but you need to know the correct way to run them, maintenance, tune ups, sharpening and how to maintain the bar.
Best thing I ever did was years ago I spent some time with a Stihl tech and he explained the correct way to operate a Stihl saw. Stihl is probably the best saws made but you need to know the correct way to run them, maintenance, tune ups, sharpening and how to maintain the bar.
Redmt
Well-known member
If you don't get the procedure for starting a cold saw you'll burn all your energy trying
BrentD
Well-known member
So what is the procedure? I've been starting mine like I start most 2-cycle engines.
Redmt
Well-known member
Supposedly,,,a couple pulls with full choke, a couple pulls with the half choke. Most of the time they start in 4 or less. When they don't, I cuss at it and try again later.
BrentD
Well-known member
Or pull at full choke until you get a sputter, then go to half and it will start on the next pull or the one after that.
Every saw is a little different and they change as they grow older (and meaner and heavier).
Redmt
Well-known member
All my saws were born with a bad attitude.
BrentD
Well-known member
You ever date a McCulloch saw from the 1970s or are you not old enough ?
THAT was a mean mother of a saw.
Dougfirtree
Well-known member
I've done some milling on an Alaskan Mill, using my 362. It's definitely on the slow side. If milling is a big part of this saw's job, I'd go with a bigger saw and I'd go with a pro model. 462 would come to mind. That said, just know that an Alaskan Mill is only really a good option for making beams if:
a) it's going to make you happy
b) You're actually milling in the middle of nowhere, where you can't drive to.
a) it's going to make you happy
b) You're actually milling in the middle of nowhere, where you can't drive to.
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