Scope sliding

Well I ordered the wheeler scope mounting kit that comes with everything lapping bars torque driver and levels it was $90. Hopefully it works if not I guess I will just go back to the tape. I also have a 300 win mag tikka I just put tape on the factory rings. No need to spend extra money if I just have to use tape anyways

same one I bought and I'm happy with it. I've also lent it to a couple buddies, so maybe you can recoup some $ back in free beer.
 
I would seriously contact dnz and talk with them about your issue. My 7RUM is a serious thumper and I've never had a issue. I have never lapped a scope with a one piece DNZ.
 
X3 I have them on .243, .270, 6.5 creed, 7mmRUM, and my .50 muzzleloader. Mount, torque, and forget!!! Do you have the proper ones for the scope? 1'" or 30MM?

Yes I have the correct one or it wouldn't mount to my gun and if it had 30 mm rings my 1 inch tube would just flop inside of it.
 
I use Warne Maxima rings on my Tikka T3 7mm-08. Unlike most rings, they mount vertically (side-to-side) and Warne does not recommend lapping maxima rings or, for that matter, using lock-tite on the screw threads. I have used these rings on several rifles and have been very happy with them. Also, I use a Warne torque scope wrench (25 lb. per si) to install all my scopes and I have never had a scope slip loose zero from being too loose. The only con (wasn't for me) is that the rings are solid steel and heavy.
 
Never had this problem on any rifle. IMO tape, glue, or anything like that would not be a solution that I would be looking for. I too just recently bought the wheeler lapping/mounting kit with the torque wrench and stuff. Are the screws too loose? Maybe locktite on the screws?
 
Yep. Not putting any "stuff" in my rings. Loctite on screws the only additive. mtmuley
 
That's what I thought I shouldn't have to put something in the rings when that's why I paid so much for them to hold the scope. I just didn't know if lapping them would make a difference.
 
Have "Conetrol" rings and bases on my .340 and .270 Weatherby mags with no slippage. The .340 Weatherby in particular, no movement ever. GJ
 
In my opinion (I'm no expert) lapping your rings before mounting your scope can help with scope movement/slippage by increasing the contact surface area between the rings and scope. more surface area should mean more grip. this is a .308 he is shooting, so a well mounted scope with lapped rings should be all he needs to stop the slippage.

I think many would be surprised at how little contact their rings make. I know I was when I first started lapping. Lapping is about compensating for imperfections in the receiver which cause the rings to not align properly. More surface area contact means tighter fit which means less chance for movement. I removed a Gamereaper from a .308 I lapped to send back to Leupold last month. Couldn't even tell it had ever been mounted.

Do you have a torque wrench? If not, how do you know how to tighten your screws? DNZ is very specific about their torque values.
 
I have the DNZ mount on my Tikka 7MM Rem mag and it holds the scope in place. I used the wheeler torque wrench to tighten everything.
 
And? Just because they are made from a single piece of metal doesn't mean they won't flex.

Someone asked what they were made of solid I answered. I'm just trying to figure out if lapping would make a difference is all. I will have my kit today and will get everything done Friday take it to the range and see what happens. I don't know if it's not straight or if there's some imperfections inside. This is the first rifle I have owned since last year we could only hunt with shotguns basically in indiana.
It's kind of like buying new tires and they don't hold air. You expect them to but you find out that you needed new valve stems too.
 
Someone asked what they were made of solid I answered. I'm just trying to figure out if lapping would make a difference is all. I will have my kit today and will get everything done Friday take it to the range and see what happens. I don't know if it's not straight or if there's some imperfections inside. This is the first rifle I have owned since last year we could only hunt with shotguns basically in indiana.
It's kind of like buying new tires and they don't hold air. You expect them to but you find out that you needed new valve stems too.

LOL. :) I gotcha. Do you have a torque driver as well? Pretty important to get that stuff right.

I'm from Iowa, and went through the same self education on rifles when I moved to South Dakota. Lap and torque correctly, and I bet your problems are gone.
 
If you bought the Wheeler kit with the two pointed metal dowel pieces- put them in the mount and snug them up- look at the points and see if they are aligned in both axis. If not- then your DNZ mount has an issue. I have the DNZ mounts on a .270 win, a 30-06 and a 7mm Rem mag and they have all held up well and I haven't had to lap them.
 
My unfounded guess is that the ring screws are not torqued properly! I used cheapo rings on a 338 Magnum and never had the scope slip.
 
It might be the torque but until I get the set i won't know the original set was mounted by gander mountain my torque wrench I have is about 3 ft long that I trust. I do have an old one that does inch pounds but it might be off it has an arm that comes back and as the main bar flexes the other arm shows the torque that's another reason I just ordered the whole kit.
 
Got it all done. When I took the scope off you could see where it was only making contact on edges of the rings. They were close to 30 on torque. I lapped them remounted the scope torqued them to 25 went to the range and after about 30 rounds no slipping.
 

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