Protective Measures For Traditional Muzzleloaders?

[Sytes]

I believe I asked this in another muzzleloader thread though searching I can not find...

1. Can I use electrical tape to cover the barrel end as I do with my general rifle?
2. Any type of protective sheathing that covers the percussion area?
2a. Pending there is, can I keep a cap with the hammer pressed down or is that a walking boom waiting to occur?
3. Any issue attaching a sissy butt pad?
4. Are there better iron sytes available or basically all iron sights are more or less equal? I don't think I can reach out past 100 though maybe to aid dialing in a bit further for my 100 range(see below)?
5. Are cheek/chin side rests valuable to ensure placement matches same location each shot? I currently have a small cut piece of moleskin to i.d. my position.
6. Favored rifle sling for your traditional muzzleloader?
7. Do you carry a simple satchel for your muzzleloader gear or a vest designed, or?
8. Would .54 be a reasonable ball for non-alaskan/Northern B.C. moose? (I.e. eastern moose). Grains? I'm shooting measured 80gr and if I understand, my muzzleloader is capable to 120gr though that would hammer a shoulder, I'd think(?). 80gr is my setting for elk.
9. Are there different metal type muzzy rounds?
10. Anything else to consider?

I feel as though I'm dialed in quite well at 50 yards however, I'm about 5" diameter @ 100, measuring the two extremes of 3 shots.

I have a Lyman Great Plains 1:60 twist .54 percussion.

Other thoughts?

 

[BAKPAKR]

I have always used tape over the muzzle and I have never had any trouble. I don’t put any type of sheath over the nipple area but I do paint fingernail polish around the base of the nipple and around the bottom of the cap. On one muzzleloader, I use musket caps and I try to use the flangeless variety so I get a better seal with the nail polish.

You might see if your muzzleloader will shoot Maxi-balls. If it will, I would use those over a patched round ball on moose. I had good luck with 54 cal Maxi-balls on a couple of elk.

 

[Redman]

4. Williams makes very good sites and. Could even go with a peep style plus they are strong/durable.

5. If you don't care about the traditional look layers of foam and electrical tape. If you want get fancy you could use a leather style like some use on double rifles.

7. A simple fanny pack worn in the front.

9. I prefer a solid fiberglass ram rod. CVA makes one and I am sure others do too.

 

[winmag]

1. Yes
3. No issue
4. Williams peep sight
5. Use if it helps you
7. Dry sack
8. Sounds reasonable
9. You’re probably stuck with lead round balls with the 1:60 twist. Try maxi balls but I bet they won’t stabilize.

5” groups at 100 is pretty damn good with patched round balls if that’s what you’re using. Throw a peep sight on it and I bet it tightens up further.

 

[406LIFE]

1. Yes.
2. Get a "cow knee".
2a. NEVER cap until ready to fire.
3. No. Unless it affects your aim. Traditional guns tend to be heavier and not need one.
4. Get a peep sight. Depends on your gun but I have one on my Lyman GPR.
5. Placenta is key to be sure. If this is a traitonal gun, your range of 100yds won't make the placement as critical.
6. Old school trapper leather strap.
7. Just my possibles bag. Few speed loaders and caps.
8. 50 and 54 are good, you'll prob increase your powder. My .50 shoots a 385gr conical with 95gr powder. Half the fun is figuring your recipe.
9. Lots of different options out there.

Your twist is pretty slow, so ball is probably all you shoot out of it.

 

[Hem]

This little trick will save your butt with powder concerns. I usually shoot at the end of a hunting day to clear the bore. Some times I don't if I feel there is absolutely no chance of dampness. But I always back the nipple out and put a tiny bit of fresh powder underneath and reattach the nipple. Never fails.
I

 

[dan.kirkpatrick]

i would figure out what conical your gun likes for a moose,round ball even.530 isnt that much knockdown power,,my .54 great plains with the hunter barrel likes the 425 gr hbht great plains conical w 90 gr 777 powder.though they are getting hard to find..ive hunted in pretty foul weather with mine,i cap and put the hammer all the way down for walking around for years and have never had it go off,,that way the hammer protects it from weather,,as said i have williams peep sights on mine and they are great for open sight requirements,,you could use a cows knee as a cover,,or what ive done is got the "solo hunter" weather cover for bad weather conditions in the field//had a shoe shop extend the end a few inches for that long barrel and it works great.elect tape on barrel is fine also//ive found major temperater swings will make the powder damp,so watch out for that.i use speed loaders in the field when hunting with my capper handy in chest pocket/then i put my posibles bag in my pack in a big zip lock.i recomend having a co2 unloader handy alo in your posibles bag.

 

[elkduds]

I found this very effective for all my years w a caplock:

Nipple Covers 1/4 x 28 (American Standard)

KAP KOVER std 1/4 x 28 T/C

www.octobercountry.com

 

[44hunter45]

I found this very effective for all my years w a caplock:

Nipple Covers 1/4 x 28 (American Standard)

KAP KOVER std 1/4 x 28 T/C

www.octobercountry.com

I have a buddy who uses this.

I use the plastic version of this from the Lyman foul weather kit. It completely covers the nipple and makes it physically impossible for the hammer to hit the cap.
The kit comes with a condom for the muzzle which will break the first time you use it oops and a couple of star shaped speed cappers.

I only use the nipple cover for the kit and duct tape over my muzzle. I use the T/C rubber covered fiberglass rod with a piece of yellow electrical tape marking my full charge depth.

The T/C Hawken has available after market tang peeps which will double your sight radius.

My .54 is a 1 in 66 and will do OK with 295 Power Belts if you can find them. I went 100% patched ball about 5 years ago.

 

[BrentD]

I believe I asked this in another muzzleloader thread though searching I can not find...

1. Can I use electrical tape to cover the barrel end as I do with my general rifle?

Yes. I very rarely do, and I use blue tape when do it. (go full ugly, or don't go at all )

2. Any type of protective sheathing that covers the percussion area?

Several have pointed out the Kap Kover. Worth every penny. Comes with a nipple with an o-ring that may or may not fit your Lyman. If not, it works with standard nipples, but without the o-ring seal. No big deal. An empty .38 ACP works too.

2a. Pending there is, can I keep a cap with the hammer pressed down or is that a walking boom waiting to occur?

NO and YES it is! If you don't like carrying a centerfire with a round in the chamber, carrying a muzzleloader with the hammer down on a cap is MUCH worse. Try tapping the hammer with a stick or rock with a cap on the nipple. It's not good.

3. Any issue attaching a sissy butt pad?

Not if you are a sissy. You could even make a leather covered pad if you wanted. Not that hard to do. I'll coach ya.

4. Are there better iron sytes available or basically all iron sights are more or less equal? I don't think I can reach out past 100 though maybe to aid dialing in a bit further for my 100 range(see below)?

They are not all equal. Not even close. But seriously, 100 yds is about all you want for a moose anyway, and barrel sights will suffice. As I recall Lyman GPR sights are pretty decent.

5. Are cheek/chin side rests valuable to ensure placement matches same location each shot? I currently have a small cut piece of moleskin to i.d. my position.

Not to me.

6. Favored rifle sling for your traditional muzzleloader?

I use a modified lace-on sling. It moves from muzzleloaders to shotguns to lever guns, etc.. I got several of them from Cabelas, but can't find them there today or anywhere else I can think to look. Here it is on a Sharps in Africa. If you get desperate, let me know, I may be able to come up with something.

Edited to add that my Kifaru Gunbearer works perfectly too, and I sometimes I take a pack, more for the Gunbearer than for the other reasons one uses a pack.

7. Do you carry a simple satchel for your muzzleloader gear or a vest designed, or?

A bird vest works really well. But I also use a shoulder bag - anything from a "going to the office" laptop bag, to a fishing creel.

8. Would .54 be a reasonable ball for non-alaskan/Northern B.C. moose? (I.e. eastern moose). Grains? I'm shooting measured 80gr and if I understand, my muzzleloader is capable to 120gr though that would hammer a shoulder, I'd think(?). 80gr is my setting for elk.

Roundballs are fine. I like a bit more powder for most of my guns. If you get decent accuracy with more, why not? 120 grs will NOT hammer a shoulder per se. Don't worry about meat destruction. 120gs MIGHT over expand on a shoulder and not penetrate well, but I'm speculating. I like 1.5 FG or 2 FG Swiss powder. Not all blackpowder is as fast for a given granulation. But it can all be made to work just fine. if 80 works on elk, it will work on moose.

9. Are there different metal type muzzy rounds?
10. Anything else to consider?

Speed loaders will be useful. And maybe you can load them more quickly without a short starter. But that will take practice in conditions similar to your hunting conditions.

I feel as though I'm dialed in quite well at 50 yards however, I'm about 5" diameter @ 100, measuring the two extremes of 3 shots.

Sounds like a dead moose every time.

I have a Lyman Great Plains 1:60 twist .54 percussion.

Other thoughts?

Deep breath and squeeze.

I guess I would suggest carrying a pair of shooting sticks or being ready and practiced to use trekking poles to hold and aim while waiting for that bull to make the final, fatal step.

If you are concerned about FTF, then, after assiduously cleaning any oil out of your firing system, maybe add a grain or two of fine powder under your nipple when loading for the big time. Just to be sure.

 

[Buckskins&BlackPowder]

I believe I asked this in another muzzleloader thread though searching I can not find...

1. Can I use electrical tape to cover the barrel end as I do with my general rifle?
2. Any type of protective sheathing that covers the percussion area?
2a. Pending there is, can I keep a cap with the hammer pressed down or is that a walking boom waiting to occur?
3. Any issue attaching a sissy butt pad?
4. Are there better iron sytes available or basically all iron sights are more or less equal? I don't think I can reach out past 100 though maybe to aid dialing in a bit further for my 100 range(see below)?
5. Are cheek/chin side rests valuable to ensure placement matches same location each shot? I currently have a small cut piece of moleskin to i.d. my position.
6. Favored rifle sling for your traditional muzzleloader?
7. Do you carry a simple satchel for your muzzleloader gear or a vest designed, or?
8. Would .54 be a reasonable ball for non-alaskan/Northern B.C. moose? (I.e. eastern moose). Grains? I'm shooting measured 80gr and if I understand, my muzzleloader is capable to 120gr though that would hammer a shoulder, I'd think(?). 80gr is my setting for elk.
9. Are there different metal type muzzy rounds?
10. Anything else to consider?

I feel as though I'm dialed in quite well at 50 yards however, I'm about 5" diameter @ 100, measuring the two extremes of 3 shots.

I have a Lyman Great Plains 1:60 twist .54 percussion.

Other thoughts?

You can use electrical tape over the muzzle just fine.

A cows knee over the lock area keeps water/snow off.

DO NOT EVER carry your muzzleloader with the hammer lowered down on top of the cap! Huge safety issue. Always carry either uncapped or at half @#)(# ( safety )

Depending on your gun, you can easily replace your sights.

If you need a cheek piece for a little adjustment, add one.

No sling

A shooting bag is what you'll need. Quality bag that keeps rain/snow/debris out.

A .54cal is a deadly caliber, especially with a patched round ball. I personally hunt deer, elk, bear with a .530" round ball. I also shoot 80gr 2fg or 70gr 3fg. For moose, you may want to kick it up to the 90-100gr range. Stay away from the shoulder. You'll want to hit it right behind the shoulder, right in the lungs.

Conicals, sabots, but it will depend on the rifling twist. Seeing how you have a 1:60 twist, you'll be limited to patched round balls.

Get settled in with your gun, learn it, know it, practice often under all conditions. Learn to care for it in cleaning and while carrying in the field. Learn what load it shoots best with. PRACTICE!

i hunt traditional, All the way down to my moccasins.



And this was with a 50cal patched round ball!

 

[Sytes]

Much appreciated all! Great info all around!

 

[Dan O]

Check the Shiloh Sharps web site for the sling you need. They have a leather one for $65.00. I think it will be just what you want.
Also for your 54 GPR you can safely go with 110 grains of 2f under the round ball. Check with, The Track of the Wolf they have a great selection of black powder accessory's. I've ordered from them before with great results.
I'm not sure if Brent was going to coach making a shoulder pad or something about a sissy
Calm down Brent just funning ya lol

 

[Four22]

For sealing the nipple, you can take the nipple to the hardware store and buy a piece of rubber/vinyl tubing the side of the nipple. Cut a small section and slide it over the cap once on the nipple. You can shoot without removing.

The .54 cal is a hammer. I’ve shot many deer with mine and even more with my .45 cal.

 

[Nate Eller]

I get good accuracy in My GPR with a .535 ball, a .018 pillow ticking patch, and between 90 and 100 grains of goex fffg, though for target and competition, i dial back to a .530 ball with the same thickness of patch and 70grs of goex fffg