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Newbie: 0 | Ungulates: 2 -> What about Archery?

thatsjet

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Beaver-tron, Oregon
So last year at 48 years old I tried hunting for the first time, on my own, backcountry solo. Let's just say I wasn't successful.

This year I didn't draw any controlled rifle hunts, but a buddy of mine from Idaho (long time hunter) suggested I might try my hand at archery as the general season starts earlier during breeding.

I own a bow (older Hoyt), but have no experience hunting with it... obviously. Would I be nuts to try to get up to speed with archery to hunt deer/elk this year? Should I go for it anyway?

Thoughts?
 
By modern bowhunting standards, my bow is older as well....8 years...

If you have a bow that will propel a 500 grain arrow 250 fps or so (most bows since 2000) that you can hit a 6 inch circle with out to 40 yards consistently, you are certainly outfitted and qualified to hunt ethically in my book. Now these are just numbers and I didn't take into account traditional equipment and heavier arrows. But that was where I was when I killed my first deer with a bow.

You have 3 months to get there if you want to go for it.
 
Go for it! As 2rocky stated, you have 3 months to get ready! Practice, practice, practice! And if you aren't successful, well you still had an awesome adventure, which to me is just as rewarding!
 
So funny... I'm starting to scout the unit I plan to hunt in and remembering everything I went through last year. Running Google Earth with time of day and seasonal changes to see how the landscape moves and MAN... I'm getting EXCITED!!!

I'm definitely going to have to go for it. I'll have to decide soon whether to use the bow I have or to possibly get a new one, but either way I'm going for it. Thanks for the encouragement folks!
 
Simple advice:Go for it.

Longer answer: Make sure you are willing to put in the time over the next three months. Archery requires practice on a consistent basis, but if you're able to shoot every day, you can make it happen this fall.

QQ
 
Go for it!!! I know I always learn more my trying and even failing then not trying at all! And you never know... might bring home some backstrap! So another vote for: go for it!
 
Definitely go for it. My first season deer hunting I had an archery tag as well as a firearm tag. I hunted hard (unsuccessfully) and after that year I decided to only hunt deer with my bow. Part of it is that where I live there is a lot more season for archery, but I also really enjoyed shooting my bow better than shooting my gun.

Get that bow out and start shooting. start close and work your way back in range. focus on your good form and repeating that before you worry about anything else. You will be very happy you took a chance on archery hunting. Good luck. I look forward to hearing about your adventure.
 
If you’re pumped about going you will have a good time. You have enough time to get up to speed and be able to have a realistic chance of pulling it all together to connect on an animal. That being said I would focus your efforts on learning by doing, trying and failing, and enjoying the hiking and scenery. Worst case scenario is a armed camping trip in some beautiful country.
 
If you have a bow that will propel a 500 grain arrow 250 fps or so (most bows since 2000) that you can hit a 6 inch circle with out to 40 yards consistently, you are certainly outfitted and qualified to hunt ethically in my book. Now these are just numbers and I didn't take into account traditional equipment and heavier arrows. But that was where I was when I killed my first deer with a bow.
It will do this. Draw weight adjusts 40-70lbs and draw length is 28". I measured myself and my wingspan is 69.75" which puts my ideal at about 28.4 so close enough in my book. However after a trip to my local archery shop I'm doubting myself. I took my bow in to see if they could tune it and they took one look and said no way, it's too old and there's no adjustments to be made. He tested the draw weight and at full let-off I'm still holding about 18lbs. He said newer bows have closer to a 90% let-off which will only leave me holding about 6lbs which he said is way better. He said modern bows compared to mine were like mine compared to a recurve.

So Q: I'm sure a newer, high-end bow would be awesome, and much easier to shoot, but I still think I'm fine with old bow for first time and lots of practice over the summer. Thoughts?
 
A properly set up bow is essential. There’s no way I’d try to make it work if the proshop can’t/won’t set it up for you. I’d be looking at a new bow unless another tech can set up the bow you have now to match your draw length perfectly.
 
It will do this. Draw weight adjusts 40-70lbs and draw length is 28". I measured myself and my wingspan is 69.75" which puts my ideal at about 28.4 so close enough in my book. However after a trip to my local archery shop I'm doubting myself. I took my bow in to see if they could tune it and they took one look and said no way, it's too old and there's no adjustments to be made. He tested the draw weight and at full let-off I'm still holding about 18lbs. He said newer bows have closer to a 90% let-off which will only leave me holding about 6lbs which he said is way better. He said modern bows compared to mine were like mine compared to a recurve.

So Q: I'm sure a newer, high-end bow would be awesome, and much easier to shoot, but I still think I'm fine with old bow for first time and lots of practice over the summer. Thoughts?

I'm pretty sure the guy at the bow shop is full of bs. I was killing deer with my 1995 Darton Viper(it was a finger release friendly bow)up until 4 years ago and it still hangs up on a my bow holder and if taken down could be tuned and ready to hunt in a very short time. I ran my own archery shop for a dozen years. I tuned hundreds of bows, I made my own strings and cables for years. So I would say I know a little bit about this subject..

That older bow would be fine if set up and tuned properly.. You just need to find someone willing to do it.. Those older bow took their fair share of game back in their own time. Technology hasn't changed that..
 
It will do this. Draw weight adjusts 40-70lbs and draw length is 28". I measured myself and my wingspan is 69.75" which puts my ideal at about 28.4 so close enough in my book. However after a trip to my local archery shop I'm doubting myself. I took my bow in to see if they could tune it and they took one look and said no way, it's too old and there's no adjustments to be made. He tested the draw weight and at full let-off I'm still holding about 18lbs. He said newer bows have closer to a 90% let-off which will only leave me holding about 6lbs which he said is way better. He said modern bows compared to mine were like mine compared to a recurve.

So Q: I'm sure a newer, high-end bow would be awesome, and much easier to shoot, but I still think I'm fine with old bow for first time and lots of practice over the summer. Thoughts?
What did they mean they couldn't tune it? What model bow is this? You can tune a bow to optimize arrow flight with paper, and move the knocking point up or down and rest in an out to eliminate most issues you see based on the tears shooting through the paper. Timing cams are a little more difficult but still doable. This shop sounds like one I would avoid.
 
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It's a Hoyt Raider, quick google search says early 90's manufacture. Probably wouldn't be able to get cams for it but I've shot it plenty on the range and can hit a target. I put my own peep sight on it last year and that works well. I put a new whisker biscuit rest on it and pin sights and could hit targets at 10-20 yards when was shooting it last summer. Haven't shot it since then. I think next step is get back out and shoot it some and see what I can do out at 30-40 yards.
 
I still use a Bear Whitetail Classic so I'm with you on 90's bows, is there a reason you're wanting to replace the cams? Just spend some time practicing. If you notice poor arrow flight you can make some adjustments yourself to try and correct it using the method I posted above. If you decide you want to stick with bowhunting after this year and you decide you want a new bow you might start setting a little money back - even the lower end package bows can be pretty decent now.

Edit: Also on the letoff differences, some states have some rules on letoff percentages allowed. Whether that would be checked or not is a different story. Just something to keep in mind if you do decide to get a new bow.
 
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I still use a Bear Whitetail Classic so I'm with you on 90's bows, is there a reason you're wanting to replace the cams? Just spend some time practicing. If you notice poor arrow flight you can make some adjustments yourself to try and correct it using the method I posted above.
This makes the most sense to me. Only reason to change cams would have been to change the draw length but I don't think that even makes sense since I'm within 1/2" anyways. Seems pretty similar to the process for rifle season. Sight in your rifle on the bench, then spend lots of time behind it. Modified for archery: verify your nock point and pins at 10-20-25-30-35-40 yards then spend lots of time throwing arrows with it.
 
It's a Hoyt Raider, quick google search says early 90's manufacture. Probably wouldn't be able to get cams for it but I've shot it plenty on the range and can hit a target. I put my own peep sight on it last year and that works well. I put a new whisker biscuit rest on it and pin sights and could hit targets at 10-20 yards when was shooting it last summer. Haven't shot it since then. I think next step is get back out and shoot it some and see what I can do out at 30-40 yards.

So a Compound bow from the 90's is like a 60's car. Yes it will get you where you are going, but a newer one will do it faster, quieter and more comfortably. But at the end if it gets you there that's what matters. As long as the string and limbs are in good shape, it will kill a deer or elk with the right arrow.
 
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but most draw length settings on those cams would be 1 inch at a time, I would rather be a little short than a little long. A new string that is a touch longer would be the easiest way to give you a little longer draw, not sure that would be worth messing with.
 
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