Low recoil rounds???

J.R.2

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Hey all, I’m sure I’m beating a dead dog with a stick here but I was wondering what you guys would recommend for a low recoiled round?

I’ve been hunting with a 30-06 and love the round but it does kick quite a bit. Now I’m a pretty big guy and it hasn’t really bothered me over the years, but in January I had a nasty spill on a mountain bike and dislocated/fractured my right humerus (my shooting hand). So I might need to get myself into something that doesn’t kick like a mule. I hunt western states, mostly deer, but would like something that’ll handle elk and black bear. I’ve read a lot on the 6.5 which many hate, but I also need to be able to find the rounds in lead free (CA) also. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
I have had tendons ripped and shredded in my right shoulder and I still shoot with a 30-06 and will soon go to a 7 MM Win mag for a long range rifle. I don't have any issue now but right after my surgery I could not shoot anything without significant pain. What I would do is go to a gun smith and have them install a brake on the muzzle and that will lessen your recoil significantly.
 
This question was answered in 1892, people just need something new these days.

7x57 (7mm mauser/275 rigby), it has killed pretty much every big game that's walked this earth. I own a 30-06 but never use it since I've had mine.

I get 2650fps with 156gn norma oryx. You could do better with a lighter pill if speed is your thing but i rarely shoot further than 350m. I prefer hunting game over shooting game.
 
I agree with most responses here. My recommendation is not buying a different rifle unless that is just what you want to do. I though have issues with recoil too but what I did with my rifles is have a gunsmith install brakes on the muzzle and now my guns have very little recoil compared to before.
 
What setup do you have? I have a Tikka T3 lite in 30-06. Being such a light weight gun, it would pound on me when I first got it. I could tolerate it but if I shot a box at the range id have a good sized bruise to show for it. Fast forward a few years and someone recommend to try a limbsaver recoil pad. That made a night and day difference. Now it kicks softer than my sons 270. I recently had it threaded when I got a surpressor and with that on it it's about the same as my 22lr.

Depending on your setup a simple recoil pad could make a huge difference. A surpressor would be a great option but wouldn't help this season with the current wait times.
 
If you use copper ammunition like Barnes, make sure you have a cartridge capable of maintaining higher velocities at your intended range. Some of the all copper bullets require a little more FPS than their jacketed lead counterparts to expand.
+1 on a muzzlebreak.
 
I have had tendons ripped and shredded in my right shoulder and I still shoot with a 30-06 and will soon go to a 7 MM Win mag for a long range rifle. I don't have any issue now but right after my surgery I could not shoot anything without significant pain. What I would do is go to a gun smith and have them install a brake on the muzzle and that will lessen your recoil significantly.

A Muzzle Brake will also help some with accuracy. Well worth the money.
 
J.R. 2

Ref your statement about the 6.5 which many hate------Nobody in Sweden (-: Seriously the 6.5 x 55 has always been one of my favorites.

Also, as has been mentioned the 275 Rigby is another good one that might work for you

The muzzle brake vs a suppressor ---this could probably be an entirely separate thread----as many and I mean many have entirely different thoughts about the two. My opinion which is based only on my usage of both is--I prefer the suppressor. To me the reduced recoil is the same and the muzzle brake is LOUD--too loud for me. Since I have had to give up hunting, my family ask me if they could put a suppressor on my 300 H & H for one of my grandson's. Also, on large caliber rifles, they make it easier to hold onto the target in case a follow up shot is needed, again IMHO. One last thought --- god save anyone standing on each side of you, if your using a brake, again in my humble opinion. Also, suppressors are not legal everywhere.
 
if you reload or find someplace that offers that service , work up a few loads at the bottom of the powder range and see how your rifle shoots these loads
 
Lighter bullets, less powder behind them, heavier rifle, muzzle break or suppressor...all ways to skin the cat. It can be done with handloads of course in your current chambering, or by moving to something designed for such if you don't load your own.
 
There's a BIG difference in recoil between a 155 Scenar loaded mildly and 210 Berger running warm.
 
Some really good ideas above but thought I would throw my 2 cents in too. I am a 50 something athletically built woman. I can shoot bigger guns but choose not to because people give my husband dirty looks when they see bruises.

I used to shoot '06 quite a bit before transitioning to 308 because the match ammunition was supplied and, lets face it, you do not turn down free match ammo. Still I continued to hunt with the '06 because I had the loads and 308 match ammo is not a good choice for game. I had good luck with a muzzle brake and reloading for that rifle. All of my rifles have shot better with reloads and all of my reloads were below the velocity of commercial ammo. Recoil was very manageable with 150 gr bullets, though I was the scourge of the range due to noise and concussion. (Those who have shot next to a muzzle brake can relate to this)

My 7mm-08 ultra lightweight has a muzzle brake making recoil very manageable. The rifle has taken game from California to Alaska to Texas; white tail & mule deer, moose, hogs, etc. Friends also took Caribou with the 7mm-08. Only felt under gunned one time and that was with an Alaskan Brown bear. The lightness of the rifle worked against me but again the muzzle brake and reloads made it work. Not sure I would look at this rifle for you but would definitely consider the cartridge in a heavier rig unless the ultralight mountain set up is important to you.

Then there is my Browning LR Staler in 6.5 Creed. By far the most accurate of my rifles shooting sub MOA with factory ammo. It came with a muzzle brake and is already very mild on the recoil but a bit heavy to tote around. The weight and ergonomics make it very pleasant to shoot. In the process of working up loads now, so I cannot comment on this aspect. The 6.5 seems like it may be too light for elk sized critters but there are many more people on this forum with far more elk experience than I have. I will defer to them on the elk performance. I have heard good things but do not have any first hand experience on large game with it...yet. Hogs and white tailed size deer are no brainers.

If you want something that is fun and cheap to practice with, for what its worth, my husband just picked up a CZ-527 in 7.62x39 for me. The rifle is a hoot to shoot, accurate with cheap Russian ammo, and very good with Hornady black. It carries and points very well. The trajectory is very similar to a 300 BLK with lighter bullets and is ok to 200 yards. Performance is fine on hogs and small to medium size white tail deer. I'm in the Ozarks now and this this works fine here. It would not be my first choice for western hunting but is a good way to get inexpensive trigger time to practice off bench.

I hope this helps.

Best

Rachel
 
I have had tendons ripped and shredded in my right shoulder and I still shoot with a 30-06 and will soon go to a 7 MM Win mag for a long range rifle. I don't have any issue now but right after my surgery I could not shoot anything without significant pain. What I would do is go to a gun smith and have them install a brake on the muzzle and that will lessen your recoil significantly.
I will definitely look into the cost of having a break installed.....its a cheap savage from Big 5 so I'm not sure its really worth dumping a lot of $$$ into. But it is worth looking into.. Thanks
 
Thanks to ALL for the info. Im definitely a fan of suppressors but being in CA (land of the misfit toys) that'll probably never happen. I will be looking into the cost of having a break installed and way out the cost vs saving for a newer/better rifle. Might do some more research into the 6.5's and the 7x57's as well as the 7mm's. The Ar-10's are pretty sweet too, but I'll prob upgrade to a mountain type rifle in the future for backpack hunts. I am also going to find a limbsaver too...

Thanks Again All
 
Ref your statement about the 6.5 which many hate------Nobody in Sweden (-: Seriously the 6.5 x 55 has always been one of my favorites.

The muzzle brake vs a suppressor ---this could probably be an entirely separate thread----as many and I mean many have entirely different thoughts about the two. My opinion which is based only on my usage of both is--I prefer the suppressor. To me the reduced recoil is the same and the muzzle brake is LOUD--too loud for me.Also, on large caliber rifles, they make it easier to hold onto the target in case a follow up shot is needed, again IMHO. One last thought --- god save anyone standing on each side of you, if your using a brake, again in my humble opinion. Also, suppressors are not legal everywhere.

I agree, 6.5x55 is a great calibre, if I didn't already own a 30-06 (and BTW even with a shoulder injury I'm fine using it) that would be a great replacement.

I have also used rifles with muzzle breaks and suppressors (sound moderators as we call them) the muzzle break is loud, but only for the person next to you, I have a suppressor, which I can fit on my Blaser, but the Blaser like many rifles is perfectly engineered and balanced, stick a tin can on the end and forget balance, that is why mine is off the gun permanently, as for following up with a second shot, sorry you are wrong, a rifle without a tin can is far more 'pointable' than one with.

Cheers

Richard
 
PEAX Trekking Poles

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