I've been living under a rock, caliber/rifle inquiry

Depends on the barrel you want. You can probably get it done by a smith for as low as 500 (wilson or mcgowen) and up to 1100 (proof carbon barrel) and you can get whatever chambering you want.
So basically, I can have really good parts added on to my current set up for the same price as a decent gun. But, it's going to have a decent chance at being a really good shooter?
 
It has new rings, bases, and a VX3 4.5-14 mounted. Being that it's older than 2 decades and it was a budget rifle to begin with, sinking any money into it feels like a lost cause.

However, @BuzzH @Backofbeyond what's the cost for a rebarrel?
Is the VX3 a CDS?
If it's shooting a known load and the rings/bases are properly torqued to spec (around 15-17 lbs) then my first suspicion would be that your erector assembly failed and you need a new scope. When I sold guns, this was one of the most common issues with guns that "all of the sudden" didn't shoot.
 
Thanks for the addition. I meant to include that.

ALTHOUGH he could make bolt modifications and open it up to a magnum as well, and it being a rem 700 he can chamber big ol magnums if he so wanted to.
The guy isn't wanting to spend money on a new rifle, doubtful he wants to spend additional funds monkeying with bolt modifications. But, yes, it can be done.

I try pretty hard not to make a square peg fit a round hole myself...but to each their own.
 
So basically, I can have really good parts added on to my current set up for the same price as a decent gun. But, it's going to have a decent chance at being a really good shooter?
This isn't hard.

Try the easy/cheap stuff first...torque ring/bases to specs, torque action screws to specs.

Try a different scope to make sure its not that.

Bed/float, can be done pretty easily on your own.

If none of those works, re-barrel or sell your rifle to someone that wants a 700 action. Take the money you made and buy another factory rifle.

A new rifle you'll probably have to do some things to as well to wring out the best it can do.
 
So basically, I can have really good parts added on to my current set up for the same price as a decent gun. But, it's going to have a decent chance at being a really good shooter?
yes. I built a 280AI on a rem 700 and it's by far the best shooting rifle I've ever had. Load development was almost nonexistent, but that could have been done with just my cheap JB weld bedding job (which is underrated) and the barrel I got.

Like @BuzzH said, do the cheap things first. I was just speaking hypothetically. You'll most likely find that the rifle does well after some dicking around with it.
 
Doing the cheap things lead to a very dangerous and addictive rabbit hole..

Do a visually inspection on the muzzle too and make sure it didn’t get a ding in the crown.

Cleaning can be more damaging than shooting a gun ever.
 
yes. I built a 280AI on a rem 700 and it's by far the best shooting rifle I've ever had. Load development was almost nonexistent, but that could have been done with just my cheap JB weld bedding job (which is underrated) and the barrel I got.

Like @BuzzH said, do the cheap things first. I was just speaking hypothetically. You'll most likely find that the rifle does well after some dicking around with it.
Worth reading twice.

I've bedded all my rifles and every single one shoots better than it did before.

I also experience the same thing with better barrels...the hardest decision during load development is deciding which one shoots the best.
 
Is the VX3 a CDS?
If it's shooting a known load and the rings/bases are properly torqued to spec (around 15-17 lbs) then my first suspicion would be that your erector assembly failed and you need a new scope. When I sold guns, this was one of the most common issues with guns that "all of the sudden" didn't shoot.
No CDS
 
This isn't hard.

Try the easy/cheap stuff first...torque ring/bases to specs, torque action screws to specs.

Try a different scope to make sure its not that.

Bed/float, can be done pretty easily on your own.

If none of those works, re-barrel or sell your rifle to someone that wants a 700 action. Take the money you made and buy another factory rifle.

A new rifle you'll probably have to do some things to as well to wring out the best it can do.
I see that as the consensus. Even a new rifle is going to have it's quirks.
 
That lowers the probability that it's the erector assembly but if it was a known load and you don't have 5k rounds through it, I'd still be suspect it's the erector. Check rings/bases with a torque wrench. in/lbs should fall between 15-17. If they do, remove scope and send to leupold and ask them to check the erector assembly.


If torque specs are too high/low, get within spec and then shoot again.
 
My tikka shot like crap, wouldn't hold zero... yadda yadda yadda

It was all bedding issues. New higher quality aftermarket stock and it's a great shooter. Zero hassle and just a couple hundred for a B&C
You guys are all talking me into fixing what I have.
 
That lowers the probability that it's the erector assembly but if it was a known load and you don't have 5k rounds through it, I'd still be suspect it's the erector. Check rings/bases with a torque wrench. in/lbs should fall between 15-17. If they do, remove scope and send to leupold and ask them to check the erector assembly.


If torque specs are too high/low, get within spec and then shoot again.
Very insightful. Thank you.
 
That lowers the probability that it's the erector assembly but if it was a known load and you don't have 5k rounds through it, I'd still be suspect it's the erector
This is probably as likely as the rifle itself, maybe even more likely. Especially if it was shooting fine and then went sideways suddenly
 
This is probably as likely as the rifle itself, maybe even more likely. Especially if it was shooting fine and then went sideways suddenly
Maybe. In my experience, rifles don't just stop shooting accurately, unless you shoot out the barrel. Even then, there are usually signs of that coming and most people will never shoot out a barrel in a hunting rifle (especially a 30-06).
Failure to RTZ, failure to hold zero, and not tracking correctly are very common issues with the scope. Sometimes groups will open a bit if the rifle really needs cleaning, but again in my experience that can be more so a carbon ring showing up and not the actual barrel needing a copper remover.

Between my dad and I, we have 6 rifles that are our "primary" hunting rifles (.243, 6.5 cm, 25-06, 7mm rem, 300 win, 7 sherman max). We NEVER clean the barrels and most of those rifles are flirting with 500-1000 rounds through each of them.

Shoot more, clean less. ymmv
 
Maybe. In my experience, rifles don't just stop shooting accurately, unless you shoot out the barrel. Even then, there are usually signs of that coming and most people will never shoot out a barrel in a hunting rifle (especially a 30-06).
Failure to RTZ, failure to hold zero, and not tracking correctly are very common issues with the scope. Sometimes groups will open a bit if the rifle really needs cleaning, but again in my experience that can be more so a carbon ring showing up and not the actual barrel needing a copper remover.

Between my dad and I, we have 6 rifles that are our "primary" hunting rifles (.243, 6.5 cm, 25-06, 7mm rem, 300 win, 7 sherman max). We NEVER clean the barrels and most of those rifles are flirting with 500-1000 rounds through each of them.

Shoot more, clean less. ymmv
Agreed, its tough to shoot a barrel out of a rifle. I've done it with one, my 6mm rem. and it took a long time even though I abused it pretty badly. Shot it like a varmint rifle and had at least 5K rounds through it.

Even then, what I started noticing is it would shoot a couple shots great, then throw a flier. Did that consistently and there was very little doubt it was time for a new barrel.

Sent it to pacnor had an 8 twist factory contour super match grade barrel installed...back in business.
 
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