Insert Installation Tips?

TexAg09

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Nov 18, 2015
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Central Texas
Howdy Everyone! Last fall I realized my arrows shoot best when my broad heads are aligned with the @#)(# vane of my arrow. I'm currently installing inserts with my broad head screwed in to help visually get the correct alignment, but I'm having a hard time getting them lined up before the glue sets. (I'm working as fast as a can too!) I'm using weighted inserts and pre fletched Black Eagle Spartan arrows. I'm using G5 Blu Glu fletching and insert glue. Is there anything I can do with what I'm currently using to give me a little more time to get it lined up, or do I need to change what I'm using? I appreciate any tips or tricks!
 
Low temp hot melt is low temp.
I'm sorry howl, but I'm not sure what this means. Can you elaborate?

(In my brief 4 years of archery experience.) I have always just grabbed whatever glue was on sale at the sporting goods store. However, I've normally kept my shots to 30 yards or less, so the alignment hasn't matter as much. As long as my inserts were properly seated it was good enough. Now that I'm shooting 40-50 yards the lack of alignment is impacting my arrows during longer flight.
 
Just glue them in. After they’re set you can use an arrow truing device to barely sand the end of the arrow. Usually doesn’t take much to get the right clock position.
 
I use two part epoxy from Easton. I’ve found that slower cure time usually equals stronger bond. It takes a long time to set up and 24 hours to cure. Plenty of time to index your broad heads.

However, if I may, if your broadheads are steering your arrows that much, you may need some tuning and/or more fletching spin.

Erratic broadhead flight/steering is usually an indicator of something besides broadhead alignment.
 
I’ve always done slow cure 2 part epoxies and spun them with broadheads. Make adjustments as you spin if it’s not spinning true. I’ve never aligned my blades with my fletching
 
I use two part epoxy from Easton. I’ve found that slower cure time usually equals stronger bond. It takes a long time to set up and 24 hours to cure. Plenty of time to index your broad heads.

However, if I may, if your broadheads are steering your arrows that much, you may need some tuning and/or more fletching spin.

Erratic broadhead flight/steering is usually an indicator of something besides broadhead alignment.
Thanks for this statement. This was an issue before I spent quite a bit of time tuning my bow. I had three arrows that lined up correctly so I just used those exclusively when shooting broadheads. I haven't tried any of the other arrows since except with field points. I might try the others with broadheads to see if I'm stressing about something that is no longer an issue.
 
The argument against hot melt is it's bad for carbon arrows. Sticks like Ferr-L-Tite don't require enough heat to be a problem.
 
I would think every broadhead may not have the threads starting in the same place in relation to the blades. Ie, match the broadhead to each individual arrow. I guess it would be easy enough to find out. It hasn't been an issue for me though. Would it be easier to install the insert and then fletch the arrow to the broadhead?
 
I would think every broadhead may not have the threads starting in the same place in relation to the blades. Ie, match the broadhead to each individual arrow. I guess it would be easy enough to find out. It hasn't been an issue for me though. Would it be easier to install the insert and then fletch the arrow to the broadhead?
In hindsight I think that might be easier, but the arrows I have are already fletched so I'm trying to not have to refletch them.
 
I’m going to go out on a very short limb and tell you that your broadhead to vane alignment is not your issue. You have something else going on. Likely bow tune issues. Shoot a few bare shafts and see what you are getting.
 
I’m going to go out on a very short limb and tell you that your broadhead to vane alignment is not your issue. You have something else going on. Likely bow tune issues. Shoot a few bare shafts and see what you are getting.
I agree, mark cams before and at full draw. Papertune. If you can't get fbh to group after tuning, go expandables.
 
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