I agree with the plaintain guesses. A broadleaf selective should take care of it. I'm a fan of Crossbow (can't remember the active ingredient) for broadleaf's in my yard. If's becoming a problem/increasing you may be mowing/grazing it too short or too often.
Hey Weed guys
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Lawnboy
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Take a picture of the leaves for me. Those tall seed heads at top look like Timothy to me that is maturing and dropping If there is no broadleaf at the base of that plant you’re concerned about then it is a grass and I’m talking not wider than a half an inch
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Lawnboy
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View attachment 85905
Plantain will have a big Broad Rough-leaf like you see in this picture. Usually the Seed stem don’t reach higher than 3 to 4 inches. The ones in your picture are way taller than that. Like I said follow the seed down to the base and look at the leaf structure if it looks like a grass it’s a grass if it’s quite a bit wider it’s a broadleaf and we can go from there
Plantain will have a big Broad Rough-leaf like you see in this picture. Usually the Seed stem don’t reach higher than 3 to 4 inches. The ones in your picture are way taller than that. Like I said follow the seed down to the base and look at the leaf structure if it looks like a grass it’s a grass if it’s quite a bit wider it’s a broadleaf and we can go from there
ShootsManyBullets
Well-known member
If it's really a weed you can roll it up and smoke it. Careful if you're pregnant, nursing or operating heavy equipment.
I'm positive it's not Timothy. I'll shoot a pic of one in my yard when I get home. mtmuley
Hummer
Well-known member
Yes. In Weeds of the West, pg. 402, it is shown as Buckhorn plantain, Plangago lanceolata L., aka English plantain or lanceleaf plantain. Native to Eurasia it is a weed of roadsides, pastures and other disturbed sites such as lawns and gardens. Flowering period is May to August.
Great resource by the way. I think it's in the 12th edition.
See the online version, pg. 403: Weeds of the West Load the image fullscreen.
7mm08mo
Well-known member
It does look to me to be buckhorn plantain. A.K.A. Toe knockers around here. A good broadleaf spray with surfactant should do the trick.
Definitely a plantain. I agree with the Buckhorn plantain suggestion.
http://www.msuturfweeds.net/details/_/buckhorn_plantain_8/
http://www.msuturfweeds.net/details/_/buckhorn_plantain_8/
MT.PERCHMAN
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Lawnboy
Well-known member
Yep Buckhorn plantain. Not Timothy. Wish I lived closer I'd give you a nice cocktail to use. 
. Spray now and then around the 2-3 week in October. You'll see half the number next year.
. Spray now and then around the 2-3 week in October. You'll see half the number next year.
Phaseolus
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It is Plantago lanceolata, common names include ribwort, narrow leaf, lambs toungue etc, and English plantain. Don’t use any 2,4-D formulations if the temperature will exceed 85 degrees or volatility drift could be a concern. You will need more than one application to kill it. Your local extension service is a good place to get local information.
greatwhitebuffalo
Active member
I'd spray now in hopes that the more favorable species would have a chance of overtaking it while there's still a little bit of warm weather left. Then again in the spring; depending on what comes back. Not sure if you've settled on a particular herbicide yet. But, I've had some success with MSMA (as long as you're not grazing it) this year. Granted, we're in very different zones of course.
MT_Chad
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mtmuley, I really like weedmaster for broadleaf weeds, i get it at murdock's here, it is a combination of 2-4d and dicamba, it works quite well used in conjunction with some surfactant.
Phaseolus
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Spray now, you will also need a spring application. You aren’t going to kill it with one application.
Phaseolus
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I like Fowl Punishment’s suggestion of using a tank mix with Dicamba (Banvel) in it. It has more residual activity than 2,4-D alone. Don’t exceed 1 Pt/A in a 30 day period. Do not graze for 7 days after application. also use a 80% non-ionic surfactant. Plants (weeds) will have a greater kill if they are not stressed so irrigate a few days before your application.
Freelex if you spray now. Its new choline version of 24d without the volitility. I recomend Chapparal in the fall about 2 weeks before first frost. Has a lot more residual then your dicambas (ie..banvel). In the spring a dose of 24d/dicamba would be in order. You want to change it up to keep from developing resistance. Add the nonionic surfactant as others have recomended also. Sample your water ph to try to get it around 7 and that will help the effects of the chemicals. Use max rate per application for mature weeds! People create resistance issues and waste their money by trying to skimp. Hope this helps.
VAspeedgoat
Well-known member
Plantain like was mentioned. You may find that because it has matured that nothing works very well. Almost all herbicides work with actively growing plants. These are close to maturity. As mentioned 2,4 d will work as will banvil/dicamba. If they have gone to seed and you want them gone now you may need to use a restricted pesticide like grazon that has a residual to kill seedlings. Otherwise understand that this is going to be a multi year process and possibly multiple times per year depending on your level of irritability. A high rate of dicamba/banvil will have a little residual effect and may be your cheapest alternative. The rate would be 16oz per acre. Im not sure how that works out per 1000square feet. I guess around .4 oz per 1000 but the label would say.
I always use at least 2 modes of action. So if you go with dicamba, do a 24d + dicamba mix such as 3pt 24d / 1.5pt dicamba per acre. Your looking at a 6 mo or less residual with dicamba. As for grazon and other picloram (tordon) products, they are restricted use and are such for a reason (dont forget to keep records for restricted use). They do a good job if applied correctly (sprayer calibration always a critical factor)and can be disasterous if not. Something like chapparal will be 12 mo or so and not restricted use. Chapparal is basicly milestone + escort and you can add a 24d as a 3d mode. E2 is another good one that is a premix of 24d, dicamba, and fluxypur. All chemicals i have listed are for plantain. Milestone by itself is not labeled for plantain. I would definatly go chapparal or e2 for fall treatment of mature plants and for residual. In the spring do a 24d/dicamba mix (rifle-d is a premix). Continue that program and youll have a beutiful stand. I only spray when theres a need. I didnt have any spraying this spring from last falls customers because they we so clean. Always use 2 or more modes of action. I dont usualy buy premixes (except chapperal) but im a picky applicator and my preferance is to buy each product and mix for each pasture/paddock/lawn. It is like asking whats the best elk round and handloads (my mixes) vs factory loads (premixes). Lots of options and these are just what works the best for me and my business.
Try to spray 2 weeks before the first frost. Plants are taking in nutrients for winter and that gives them time to take in the chemical and then the frost is final nail in their coufin.
Try to spray 2 weeks before the first frost. Plants are taking in nutrients for winter and that gives them time to take in the chemical and then the frost is final nail in their coufin.
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