First rifle

[CowboyLeroy]

150+

 

[NEWHunter]

All good feedback, thanks fellas. I've also heard federal is a good economy type round that's pretty good too, can anyone confirm?

All I’ve ever used in my 7mm is Federal. I don’t have any complaints. I use 150 gr. rounds. My brother uses their trophy copper rounds in his .243 and has had good luck. Once ammo becomes more available, I’ll be looking to switch to their copper rounds.

Also, I zero at 225. Check your ballistics, but I’d probably consider a 200 yard 0 with a .308. Good luck

 

[CowboyLeroy]

A thing to remember with the axis! Their barrels are pretty thin and will heat up easier so be mindful of how fast you're shooting when you start testing your loads.

 

[morley.tyler]

I have an abnormal number of rifles chambered in 308. I shoot 150gr through all of them and they all shoot very well. Living where you live, however, it seems like a road trip to a border state may be in order for ammo acquisition.

 

[dirtclod Az.]

I shoot 165gr. boutial out of my .308,
For Javelina, Deer, and Elk...Buffalo if I could get drawn!

 

[RaiderRich]

I have an American Ruger in 308. That loves the Federal PowerShok 150 grainers and the Federal Blue Box 150 copper loads.

In regard to sighting distance 100 or 200 is good, it depends on the scope a little bit, various BDC reticles assume 100 or 200 yard sight in. Being you are new to rifle ownership, I would start at 100. If you then want 200 just sight in at 100 but impact 2" high and it will give you a good start to a 200 yard set. Congrats on the new rifle!

 

[Deleted member 52098]

All good feedback, thanks fellas. I've also heard federal is a good economy type round that's pretty good too, can anyone confirm?

My savage 30-06 loves fed fusion 180g. By far its favorite and most accurate rounds

 

[cahunter805]

I’d go to a few local stores and see what they have on the shelves currently. I’d try to find something in the 150gr lead free. Barnes factory ammo or Nosler Etips will be most popular. Grab a few boxes and see if your rifles groups them well. If so run back and grab a few more boxes if the store has them. It’s getting close to CA deer season so I’d recommend getting it quickly if you can.

 

[OntarioHunter]

Ive also heard mixed thoughts on sighting scope. Some say I should zero at 100yds, others say 200. What you guys think?

With 150 gr bullets I would think sighting in at either range would easily still put you in the boiler room out to at least 250 yards which is pretty much the outer limits for a hunter with limited experience.

 

[steveshuntn1]

Check out Remington website…you can order directly from them. They have the core lokt tipped 150 in stock and they are affordable and very accurate.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Any 150 grain for practice - 150 grain VORTEX TTSX for hunting.

 

[std7mag]

Depends upon the scope.
If it's a BDC reticle, read the paperwork that comes with the scope, as some of them require a 200 yard zero to match up the BDC.

Duplex reticle, i'd sight at 200.

MOA reticle i sight in at 100 yards.

Congratulations on the new rifle purchase!

 

[Pucky Freak]

There are a couple things that would rank higher on my list than “which ammo” in regards to shooting accurately.

I have the Axis II in 6.5 CM.

If you have the cheap, factory-molded plastic stock, swap it out for something stiffer. Or, for about $50 in materials and tools you can remove it and fill in the buttstock with grocery sacks and the forestock with epoxy, which is what I did. There are several videos and threads online showing how to do this. https://www.hunttalk.com/threads/junk-stock-build.296979/

A forestock of cheap factory-molded stock can warp when removed from the mold and is likely not complete straight. It can touch the barrel. Even if it was completely straight, a very small amount of pressure you put on the stock can cause it bend and touch the barrel, throwing your shot way off.

Secondly, a crisp trigger with a light break. Timney or Accutrigger. Shop used to save $$

Ammo choice is typically more for fine-tuning. May bring a shot group in 1” or less at 100 yards, which is important, just not as important as a serviceable stock and trigger.

 

[OntarioHunter]

There are a couple things that would rank higher on my list than “which ammo” in regards to shooting accurately.

I have the Axis II in 6.5 CM.

If you have the cheap, factory-molded plastic stock, swap it out for something stiffer. Or, for about $50 in materials and tools you can remove it and fill in the buttstock with grocery sacks and the forestock with epoxy, which is what I did. There are several videos and threads online showing how to do this. https://www.hunttalk.com/threads/junk-stock-build.296979/

A forestock of cheap factory-molded stock can warp when removed from the mold and is likely not complete straight. It can touch the barrel. Even if it was completely straight, a very small amount of pressure you put on the stock can cause it bend and touch the barrel, throwing your shot way off.

Secondly, a crisp trigger with a light break. Timney or Accutrigger. Shop used to save $$

Ammo choice is typically more for fine-tuning. May bring a shot group in 1” or less at 100 yards, which is important, just not as important as a serviceable stock and trigger.

Interesting. Is a plastic stock more "flexible" than a wanut one?

 

[Pucky Freak]

Interesting. Is a plastic stock more "flexible" than a wanut one?

Not all composite are the same. There are some high-quality products out there. Savage Axis maintains a low price on an accurate rifle by putting about $10 into a limp noodle stock and puts much more attention to the action, specifically the bolt.

 

[std7mag]

Interesting. Is a plastic stock more "flexible" than a wanut one?

The Tupperware Savage stocks, definitely!

I've used several different methods to stiffen them.
Lite weight Bondo works well.

The shredded fibre glass Bondo adds a good bit of weight.

Carbon fibre arrow shafts epoxied in don't work as good as one would hope. But lite weight.

None of those compare though to a good laminate stock, or a good composite stock.

The plastic bags in the buttstock just serves to get rid of that hollow sound if it gets bumped.
Does nothing to stiffen or improve the balance of the rifle.

Bufore doing anything to the plastic injection molded stocks, rough up with course grit sandpaper and thoroughly degrease! (I use starting fluid as it has no oils in it)

Then i strongly suggest using an adhesion promoter! Found at any establishment that has auto body supplies.

Use this especially when bedding an action into a plastic stock!!

 

[JLS]

My first Remington 700 was lit asf

That’s core.

 

[JLS]

For copper rounds out of a .308 I’d stick with 150 grain bullets. You’ll want the muzzle velocity for reliable expansion for starters.

Hard to imagine you’d have trouble killing ANY animal on the continent with those.

Agree with the zero, 200 yard for a duplex reticle, 100 for a MOA. If you have an MOA scope make sure you know how to use it, and which power setting for the subtensions.

 

[std7mag]

I hope the OP got a Savage Axis II, not the standard Axis!

The Axis II trigger can be adjusted to be halfways decent.

I could literally pick my Axis up by the trigger without it releasing the firing pin.
Empty gun of course!
Course, gritty, heavy are terms readily used with a standard Axis trigger.

Rifle Basix makes a decent, useable trigger for the Axis.

 

[Pucky Freak]

The plastic bags in the buttstock just serves to get rid of that hollow sound if it gets bumped.
Does nothing to stiffen or improve the balance of the rifle.

Depends how tightly you pack them in. Ever picked up a composite deck board?