Elevation and shooting question

Easy solution. Just zero your rifle for MPBR at an 8" target at home. Once you have it, check it at high elevation and likely you'll be good to go out to 300yds. Just forget about the 400yds shot, you don't have to take it. Only shot that ever has to be taken would be 30 yds at some type dangerous game that is attacking you. Then drop matter's very little!
 
If you are going to shoot 400 yards and under then have at it. I would think about putting the elevation at 5000 feet and split the difference. You can just use one dial. If you want to shoot past 500 yards then you are going to need 2 different turrets for those applications. Most of the hunters I know shouldn't shoot past 500 yards. The 2 other bigger variables that will affect your point of impact are the wind speed and direction. The second one is when you shoot up hill or down hill. Both of those variables will affect the point of impact dramatically too. Most all shots under 400 yards and 10MPH wind will be fine with just putting the crosshairs on fur and letting it rip.

Here is another consideration. Buy a scope that has a build in BDC in the scope. I've got a fulfield II by Burris that is awesome for that type of shooting. Lines are typically good out to 500 for most calibers and bullets.

Personally I use a numbered turret, know my velocity, sight in at the given elevation, use a chart/program and then start to twist the dial for a given distance. I don't like to dial for windage but I do dial for elevation changes.
 
Easy solution. Just zero your rifle for MPBR at an 8" target at home. Once you have it, check it at high elevation and likely you'll be good to go out to 300yds. Just forget about the 400yds shot, you don't have to take it. Only shot that ever has to be taken would be 30 yds at some type dangerous game that is attacking you. Then drop matter's very little!
I don’t really see me taking a 400 yd shot. It would have to be a perfect set up for me to even consider it. I just want to (with practice) feel confident at that range. Like I said 200 and under is the shot I’m looking for. The 750yd target range is something I just want see if I can do. This all new ground for me.
 
As stated by others just use the MOA dial and a ballistics program. That will get you plenty of practice and confidence.
More important is practice your shooting forum, keeping your head down and spotting hits through your scope, trigger control and recoil control. Also I assume your shooting factory ammo. If so I’d find a few different loads and see what your rifle likes.
For 200 and under you won’t even need to dial. Just run a 200 yard zero and your fine.
 
MOA dial and download a GOOD ballistics calculator.
Get a good MV and plug it in and confirm your dope at distance.
It’s not as hard as some on here want you to believe. Spin drift and coriolis are minimal at 400 if you are shooting anything with a decent BC and velocity.
Once you have good data it’s all about wind.
 
3BD580A1-A651-4A5D-A6B3-4A95AD5F597B.jpegC199F348-A280-4BC7-A54A-36D4BB5BC91F.jpegWell this is my setup. I’m shooting a new Howa Kuiu .308. I went to the range last week and went through the barrel break in procedure recommended by Randy and Howa. I was only able to get 20 shots in before we got rained out. This was my last 10 shots at 200yd., I wasn’t worried to much about messing with the scope at that point. It’s about a 6” wide group. I’m thinking that should tighten up with better ammo. I was using cheap $15 a box Winchester ammo for the break in. I just bought a box of Nosler trophy grade 165 gr. partition and a box of Nosler trophy grade 165 gr. accubond. Is there any other ammo that anyone here would recommend trying with my set up? This will be for my New Mexico elk hunt this fall.
 
I would shoot a few groups with both of the Nosler ammo you just bought and see what the rifle likes. Either one of those bullets will be good for elk.
I would adjust your scope for the 200 yard zero after your first group with the Nosler ammo also.
 
This is why I don't like custom turrets. MOA is really easy to learn, it's all over the internet, and you can have it down in a couple of hours. Knowing MOA will help you with all of this.
 
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