DIY Truck Kayak Rack

[Sytes]

With our camper in tow, we needed a method to transport our kayaks. Thus, the haunting DIY project began. Wife and I viewed several models of racks including Tule and Yakima.
We sold our boat and purchased two nice kayaks, camper, and other odds n ends.
NONE accommodated a side drop overhead rack that's specc'd weight capacity is remotely capable of my 110# Hobie Pro Angler 12 Kayak. Max weight was Tule (I believe) and that was 65#'s. Kayaks transported in the truck bed interfere with the hitched camper.

Aluminum and creativity. Wife's brains and my labor. We came up with the following design crafted primarily from 2x1" channel stock and a couple sticks of 2" angle. Holes drilled for mostly 5/8" bolts. Basically, the rack drops on both sides to load/unload and raise into transport position above the bed/cab of the truck.



Holes drilled for 2 bolts at the ends of each horizonal unit, length of the truck. Hopefully they reduce pivoting that is typical with a single bolt at each end.


The pic below is in the travel setting of the rack, less a few bolts. We were working off the base bolts to hold it into place as we adjusted this and that.


We were originally thinking basic chain between the main body of the rack and the side dropdown at either end. They would close up within the channel interior space.
Further thought has us looking at alternatives. Raising a kayak onto the rack of a truck parked at an angle may result in the chain pinched by the channel closure. That would be a PITA...
So, ideas? I may drill holes at the end with a retracting wire or may take some flat stock and attach along the inside wall of the channel with a small pivot bolt mid way that opens and becomes the loading rack's strength. Once ready to raise the secured kayak, the flat stock pivots and closes undetectable to the common eye as it's within the enclosed channel. Likely the best route - just more laborious work...


This is the driver side rack that would be ready for a kayak to load (less the above mentioned support strength bar or chain/wire), sideways and the top side facing the current pic positioned vertical bars There, it will be strapped.


As the kayak rack is raised, the kayak will become positioned upside down for transport, already strapped. We have 1/2 x 2" quick release type bolts with cotter pins that lock the rack, once atop the main rack body to secure for transport.


And no, I'm not a fabricator by trade - my welds are good though not great. Aluminum is a bit more challenging to weld though great for weight and a reasonable level of strength.

Pointers? Thoughts to improve without scratching the build? Other methods than chain, wire, or flat stock to support the rack when the unit is in the load/unload position?

 

[LIK2HNT]

Looks great. Hope you post pictures when finished and kayaks being loaded.
What do you think the rack weighs?

 

[Sytes]

Looks great. Hope you post pictures when finished and kayaks being loaded.
What do you think the rack weighs?

I'd guess around a total 30-40#'s(?). Wife and i carried it to our rear yard to disassemble and paint, I carried my end with a single finger. The channel is the structural metal design that gives the rack design its strength. Least that's the objective.

 

[Moserkr]

Awesome build and innovation. Will make loading a breeze.

 

[Gellar]

I’ll be curious to see how it works and if you want to tweak it at all. I think you are onto something with the being able to drop down to load and unload the kayak.

I remember my last internship in college was at a park that was popular with kayakers. There was one guy that would go out almost every day. He was a wwII vet so he had to be in his late 80s at the time. He’d wouldn’t ask for any help to load or unload his kayak by himself. Tough old bird.

 

[Sytes]

Anyone know of some sort of retracting coated wire setting? Something that as the rack is lowered the wire stops and keeps the weight of the kayak?

Looking for the best means to hold the weight and retract so it's not in the way when raising the rack to the transport position.

 

[buckbull]

Anyone know of some sort of retracting coated wire setting? Something that as the rack is lowered the wire stops and keeps the weight of the kayak?

Looking for the best means to hold the weight and retract so it's not in the way when raising the rack to the transport position.

Could you use a cable like a truck tailgate?
Old school truck tailgates use to use two peices iron with a pivot in the middle, that would probably work and stay out of the way.
I wonder if you could attach a car hood strut somehow.

 

[noharleyyet]

Looks awesome Charles.

 

[Sytes]

Could you use a cable like a truck tailgate?
Old school truck tailgates use to use two peices iron with a pivot in the middle, that would probably work and stay out of the way.
I wonder if you could attach a car hood strut somehow.

Those are the ideas floating around. Specifically your description of the old school tailgate flat stock with the center pivot point.

What do you mean by, car hood strut?




That would be the cats meow though how does it retract within 1" channel? I like this idea, however, seems I would need to fabricate some form of sliding track (?).

The pic above what you're speaking g about?

Looks awesome Charles.

Thanks. Wife and I have enjoyed bouncing ideas off each other. Biggest challenge seems to be prep for each weld. The heat, if not clamped at the correct angle, will quickly flex off several degrees. No Bueno for something that needs to slide within each channel.
Odd as it sounds, we're enjoying the time together crafting.
Greatest aspect? She is a constant reminder to measure twice, cut once - haha! Likely saved this project several times over.

 

[LIK2HNT]

Anyone know of some sort of retracting coated wire setting? Something that as the rack is lowered the wire stops and keeps the weight of the kayak?

Looking for the best means to hold the weight and retract so it's not in the way when raising the rack to the transport position.

I built a large (3’x6’) BBQ years ago for a guy on a trailer. He wanted to be able to rotisserie a small/medium pig. The lid was huge and almost too heavy to pickup. I ended up using torsion springs from a VW bug and preloading them. Worked great.

 

[CRJR45]

Well I'll give you an A for effort , ..........

 

[Frenchy]

One question. If you strap the kayak to the crossbar when it's in the down/loading position and then tip it up, doesn't the strap interfere with the nesting of the two channel pieces at the travel position? Or are the anchor points added to the channel that you strap to?

 

[buckbull]

Those are the ideas floating around. Specifically your description of the old school tailgate flat stock with the center pivot point.

What do you mean by, car hood strut?

View attachment 343235


That would be the cats meow though how does it retract within 1" channel? I like this idea, however, seems I would need to fabricate some form of sliding track (?).

The pic above what you're speaking g about?


Thanks. Wife and I have enjoyed bouncing ideas off each other. Biggest challenge seems to be prep for each weld. The heat, if not clamped at the correct angle, will quickly flex off several degrees. No Bueno for something that needs to slide within each channel.
Odd as it sounds, we're enjoying the time together crafting.
Greatest aspect? She is a constant reminder to measure twice, cut once - haha! Likely saved this project several times over.

yes. not exactly sure how it would work. my thought being it would provide a stop when you open the loading tray and then provide assist when putting it back up.

 

[Sytes]

Or are the anchor points added to the channel that you strap to?

They're yet to be added. We're thinking eye bolts. Makes me think I may add a small angle bracket on the loading bar to support ratcheting... I can see that as a potential weak point when securing the ratchet straps.

I ended up using torsion springs from a VW bug and preloading them. Worked great.

I made a travel smoker/propane grill out of an old trailer frame and house kerosene unit some 15 years ago - projects of past fug ups that help avoid repeats or at least i tell myself that.
Good move on a torsion spring for a VW heavy lid! Good idea for future projects.

Well I'll give you an A for effort , ..........

Haha! We will see. Fingers crossed.