With our camper in tow, we needed a method to transport our kayaks. Thus, the haunting DIY project began. Wife and I viewed several models of racks including Tule and Yakima.
We sold our boat and purchased two nice kayaks, camper, and other odds n ends.
NONE accommodated a side drop overhead rack that's specc'd weight capacity is remotely capable of my 110# Hobie Pro Angler 12 Kayak. Max weight was Tule (I believe) and that was 65#'s. Kayaks transported in the truck bed interfere with the hitched camper.
Aluminum and creativity. Wife's brains and my labor. We came up with the following design crafted primarily from 2x1" channel stock and a couple sticks of 2" angle. Holes drilled for mostly 5/8" bolts. Basically, the rack drops on both sides to load/unload and raise into transport position above the bed/cab of the truck.
Holes drilled for 2 bolts at the ends of each horizonal unit, length of the truck. Hopefully they reduce pivoting that is typical with a single bolt at each end.
The pic below is in the travel setting of the rack, less a few bolts. We were working off the base bolts to hold it into place as we adjusted this and that.
We were originally thinking basic chain between the main body of the rack and the side dropdown at either end. They would close up within the channel interior space.
Further thought has us looking at alternatives. Raising a kayak onto the rack of a truck parked at an angle may result in the chain pinched by the channel closure. That would be a PITA...
So, ideas? I may drill holes at the end with a retracting wire or may take some flat stock and attach along the inside wall of the channel with a small pivot bolt mid way that opens and becomes the loading rack's strength. Once ready to raise the secured kayak, the flat stock pivots and closes undetectable to the common eye as it's within the enclosed channel. Likely the best route - just more laborious work...
This is the driver side rack that would be ready for a kayak to load (less the above mentioned support strength bar or chain/wire), sideways and the top side facing the current pic positioned vertical bars There, it will be strapped.
As the kayak rack is raised, the kayak will become positioned upside down for transport, already strapped. We have 1/2 x 2" quick release type bolts with cotter pins that lock the rack, once atop the main rack body to secure for transport.
And no, I'm not a fabricator by trade - my welds are good though not great. Aluminum is a bit more challenging to weld though great for weight and a reasonable level of strength.
Pointers? Thoughts to improve without scratching the build? Other methods than chain, wire, or flat stock to support the rack when the unit is in the load/unload position?
We sold our boat and purchased two nice kayaks, camper, and other odds n ends.
NONE accommodated a side drop overhead rack that's specc'd weight capacity is remotely capable of my 110# Hobie Pro Angler 12 Kayak. Max weight was Tule (I believe) and that was 65#'s. Kayaks transported in the truck bed interfere with the hitched camper.
Aluminum and creativity. Wife's brains and my labor. We came up with the following design crafted primarily from 2x1" channel stock and a couple sticks of 2" angle. Holes drilled for mostly 5/8" bolts. Basically, the rack drops on both sides to load/unload and raise into transport position above the bed/cab of the truck.
Holes drilled for 2 bolts at the ends of each horizonal unit, length of the truck. Hopefully they reduce pivoting that is typical with a single bolt at each end.
The pic below is in the travel setting of the rack, less a few bolts. We were working off the base bolts to hold it into place as we adjusted this and that.
We were originally thinking basic chain between the main body of the rack and the side dropdown at either end. They would close up within the channel interior space.
Further thought has us looking at alternatives. Raising a kayak onto the rack of a truck parked at an angle may result in the chain pinched by the channel closure. That would be a PITA...
So, ideas? I may drill holes at the end with a retracting wire or may take some flat stock and attach along the inside wall of the channel with a small pivot bolt mid way that opens and becomes the loading rack's strength. Once ready to raise the secured kayak, the flat stock pivots and closes undetectable to the common eye as it's within the enclosed channel. Likely the best route - just more laborious work...
This is the driver side rack that would be ready for a kayak to load (less the above mentioned support strength bar or chain/wire), sideways and the top side facing the current pic positioned vertical bars There, it will be strapped.
As the kayak rack is raised, the kayak will become positioned upside down for transport, already strapped. We have 1/2 x 2" quick release type bolts with cotter pins that lock the rack, once atop the main rack body to secure for transport.
And no, I'm not a fabricator by trade - my welds are good though not great. Aluminum is a bit more challenging to weld though great for weight and a reasonable level of strength.
Pointers? Thoughts to improve without scratching the build? Other methods than chain, wire, or flat stock to support the rack when the unit is in the load/unload position?
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