Browning X bolt

djlax

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Hello - I have have a new Browning X-Bolt Stalker Long Range in 6.5 Creedmoor and I recently moved the zero from 100 yds to 200 yds in preparation for my upcoming Pronghorn hunt. Shooting from a sled at the range, my groups are about 3" @ 200 yds - at 300 yds my groups are 6". I feel like it should be much tighter, especially shooting from the lead sled. I'm using the Hornady Superformance 129 grain SST. Any ideas? I've ordered some Nosler ammo to see how that goes. I've never really practiced beyond 200 yds, so that may be it - but I figured the sled would take most of my error out.

I had a Remington 700 PSS in 7mm Mag previously and I could shoot 1" groups at 200 yds.
 
Take the advice of mtmulie otherwise you'll have to put your hair up in a manbun to use the 6.5CM. :rolleyes:

No, but I wouldn't ditch a rifle that was under MOA at 200 yards for one that isn't. Don't care what different cartridge it was. mtmuley
 
your gun doesn't like that ammo. Switch it up.

What he said, that rifle should be capable of better performance, I'm sure there's an ammo combo that will work for you. Also, shoot both rifles out of the sled, which one do you shoot better? If it's still the 7mm, then like mtmuley said use the 7mm, no such thing as too much gun if it's the one you shoot best.
 
I would suggest getting off the sled and using bags. You may be putting torque on the rifle. I would definitely try another ammo. Also is your scope leveled with the rifle if not that may be an issue.
 
I sold the 7mm because I rarely shot it, it was too heavy to lug around - I opted for a lighter rifle. I'm feeling the effects of that decision now... So the first suggestion is out, this is my only long range rifle.

I don't have enough hair for a man bun, Mother Nature has taken care of that :D

I used the sled on my most recent range trip, previously I was shooting from the bench off bags with similar results. I used the sled this time hoping it would reveal another clue.

Huntkook - I mounted the scope with the Browning inserts and Vortex mounts/rings. I don't know how to check or adjust anything beyond that as far as the scope is concerned. Please elaborate.

I'll report back when the Nosler ammo arrives.
 
Use some different ammo. Heavier or lighter bullet. Also, like others have mentioned, get off the sled and use bags. Good luck!
 
I sold the 7mm because I rarely shot it, it was too heavy to lug around - I opted for a lighter rifle. I'm feeling the effects of that decision now... So the first suggestion is out, this is my only long range rifle.

I don't have enough hair for a man bun, Mother Nature has taken care of that :D

I used the sled on my most recent range trip, previously I was shooting from the bench off bags with similar results. I used the sled this time hoping it would reveal another clue.

Huntkook - I mounted the scope with the Browning inserts and Vortex mounts/rings. I don't know how to check or adjust anything beyond that as far as the scope is concerned. Please elaborate.

I'll report back when the Nosler ammo arrives.
You'll need a Wheeler scope leveling kit. Take the scope off make sure your bases are tight. There's a small level that you set on the base make sure bubble is in the middle then put the barrel level on so that it matches the base level. Remove base level and put the scope on the bases. Then take the top cap off the scope set the level on the scope so that it matches the barrel level. Leave that level on as you tighten the rings make sure nothing moves. The reason for doing this is if your scope is not level as you shoot at further distances you'll be off center and the longer the shot the further off center you'll be. I've had 4 Browning rifles all where sub MOA with factory ammo so once the scope is level it's finding the ammo that'll work.
 
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You'll need a Wheeler scope leveling kit. Take the scope off make sure your bases are tight. There's a small level that you set on the base make sure bubble is in the middle then put the barrel level on so that it matches the base level. Remove base level and put the scope on the bases. Then take the top cap off the scope set the level on the scope so that it matches the barrel level. Leave that level on as you tighten the rings make sure nothing moves. The reason for doing this is if your scope is not level as you shot at further distances you'll be off center and the longer the shot the further off center you'll be. I've had 4 Browning rifles all where sub MOA with factory ammo so once the scope is level it's finding the ammo that'll work.

Yep, sometimes you have to take your time and re-do the mounting system. Not a big deal. What can be a big deal is finding the right ammo. I'm still working on a REM 700 Mountain SS in .270 and I've already spent about $200 in "premium ammo" trying to figure out what it wants. I don't reload for rifles (yet), but sometimes it takes a little bit to figure out that what you have either is or is not a dud. I would expect you to have better luck with your Browning than I am currently having with my Remington. The quality control is such a joke sometimes.

Good luck with your Browning... I am waiting on an X-bolt Pro to get delivered to my FFL this week. I may end up ditching the Remington completely.
 
If you're groups are consistent, but not tight, I would wonder how your trigger follow through is. Consciously pulling the trigger all the way back helped me tighten my long range groups.

Still, 6 inches is minute of elk.
 
Yep, sometimes you have to take your time and re-do the mounting system. Not a big deal. What can be a big deal is finding the right ammo. I'm still working on a REM 700 Mountain SS in .270 and I've already spent about $200 in "premium ammo" trying to figure out what it wants. I don't reload for rifles (yet), but sometimes it takes a little bit to figure out that what you have either is or is not a dud. I would expect you to have better luck with your Browning than I am currently having with my Remington. The quality control is such a joke sometimes.

Good luck with your Browning... I am waiting on an X-bolt Pro to get delivered to my FFL this week. I may end up ditching the Remington completely.

Sometimes the Remington can be a little fussy. My hunting partner/friend has a 700 .270 and shoots Federal Fusions it shoots really well using 130 grain.
 
Lead sled? A very bad idea. Sand bags, and try different ammo. if time is running short, take a different rifle. good luck!
 
You might not have time, but I struggled with my Browning A bolt (I know, not the same gun) and tried several different bullets and powder brands and couldn’t get any better groups than what your experiencing until I had a muzzle break put on it. Man, that changed everything. I went from six inch groups at 100 yds. to three shots groups that were touching each other. It changed my mind about getting rid of that thing, to loving it.
 
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In my X-Bolt Hell's Canyon Speed I was getting fairly large groups until I let the barrel cool to the touch between shots(about 90-120 seconds). The thin barrel profile, even despite the fluting, just gets a little wild after 2-3 shots. The groups are still dead deer/elk sized when hot but they are much tighter when cool.

Warmed up barrel:


Cooled between shots:
20180904_152210 by charliebravo77, on Flickr
 
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Hello - I have have a new Browning X-Bolt Stalker Long Range in 6.5 Creedmoor and I recently moved the zero from 100 yds to 200 yds in preparation for my upcoming Pronghorn hunt. Shooting from a sled at the range, my groups are about 3" @ 200 yds - at 300 yds my groups are 6". I feel like it should be much tighter, especially shooting from the lead sled. I'm using the Hornady Superformance 129 grain SST. Any ideas? I've ordered some Nosler ammo to see how that goes. I've never really practiced beyond 200 yds, so that may be it - but I figured the sled would take most of my error out.

I had a Remington 700 PSS in 7mm Mag previously and I could shoot 1" groups at 200 yds.

I have just bought a browning x-bolt hell's canyon long range in 6.5CM, and I have discovered after the fact that there is some discussion as to whether the original 6.5CM rounds are the same as the ones currently in production. "The Real Gunsmith" has a video on youtube about this issue... it has to do with the reamer. Basically if you use a Go Gage it's too long, or the round is too short in some cases. Not sure how you can make this mistake so frequently, as I have seen in forums all over the net, but apparently, it's a real problem.
 
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