Broad head vs bare shaft tune

[Valley1320]

I disagree with this point, when my field points and bareshafts are flying true I don't need to move anything for broad heads

I've found it the same way

 

[Clawsar]

To the OP. If you're that far off at 20 something is up. I would start by looking for vane contact as BS are flying high.

I start by shooting bare shafts at 20. As long as they're flying pretty straight I knock tune to get all flying the same and then tune the bow to get the best bare shaft flight I can, which is a bullet hole through paper but I don't often bother hanging paper. I then fletch arrows. Fletched field points always hit with a bareshaft as long as there is no fletching contact. I then go through shooting broad heads on every arrow. As long as the bh is straight and spinning true I have never had to move anything on my bow.

IMO shooting a bare shaft past 20 is not needed. When shooting bare shaft correct spine is important. As is a repeatable form and bow fit. Just getting bare shafts to hit with field points, even with a bit of tail kick will help. Fletching really do a great job of correcting arrow flight.

Thanks, I was thinking some more on some of the other comments about drag differences and mass differences. Do you add any weight to the back if bareshaft tuning? My fletched arrows are helical blazers, which have a different drop when I was trying a couple different fletching options as well, but I’d only start seeing those drops at 20+ yards.
Just trying to think through as I’ve never shot bare shafts beyond close range and usually tuned through other means to get the end result of broadheads and field points together.
Thanks!

 

[mplane72]

Thanks, I was thinking some more on some of the other comments about drag differences and mass differences. Do you add any weight to the back if bareshaft tuning? My fletched arrows are helical blazers, which have a different drop when I was trying a couple different fletching options as well, but I’d only start seeing those drops at 20+ yards.
Just trying to think through as I’ve never shot bare shafts beyond close range and usually tuned through other means to get the end result of broadheads and field points together.
Thanks!

Only weight I add to back of bareshaft is a wrap. That's just there so I can mark top of shaft for @#)(# vane.
I have personally seen nothing that would make me believe fetching put enough drag on an arrow that you could measure it at 20 or even 30 yards.

 

[Bluejeep]

I disagree with this point, when my field points and bareshafts are flying true I don't need to move anything for broad heads

I just prefer to go straight to BH tuning. There is no wrong way, both ways you have to move the rest and the end result is the same. Just how I like to do it...for now

 

[WapitiBob]

I don’t ever move my rest. I set it on center and if it’s a new bow, shoot paper up close and move the cams to get the string pushing straight thru the arrow (bullet hole). Then I bareshaft at 20 so I know the arrows are coming out clean without any stabilization. Then I group tune at distance. Vertical string I’ll add/subtract a 1/4 turn off a limb bolt to move the nock point slightly. Lateral string I’ll add/remove 1/2 turn off both limb bolts and see how the group changes. Once it’s grouping I don’t care if a bh hits with a field point, I want it to hit the middle even when I screw up.

 

[pojoaque40]

I think it's important to distinguish between bare shaft tuning and bare shaft paper tuning. I personally don't bother with the paper as i only care about what the arrow is doing at impact and i think the bare shaft impact tells me the end result of the paper tune. With my setup, an arrow that strikes the target straight and true with a bare shaft will send a BH to the same point as a FP (at least within my capabilities). I used to worry over various paper tears but i found it was always a distraction and usually put me off of what shot into the target true. However you choose to get there, i would agree with those who say that the BH impact is the most important. If different from your FPs you're probably losing efficiency, but hitting the target with the BH is obviously the point of the whole exercise. Get your bare shaft close, put on the BH and dial it in with your sight. Then stop thinking about it (prob the hardest part if you're OC like i am).