Big ol Burban?

New seat foam and covers will be here this week. All the front end bushings are in and waiting to be installed. I’m not looking forward to that and have been procrastinating because of it.
Yeah, I probably would too. I spent most of the day redoing some wiring on my trailer then hauled some fence panels down to the daughter's new house and put up a dog pen. Dirty, tired and hungry. Not sure what to tackle first!
 
Had the day off so I disassembled the front suspension to rebuild it. It was in desperate need of a rebuild. The desert dry heat destroyed the rubber bushings. Both lower ball joints were shot and the boots on the uppers were dry rotted. Brakes were only about 20% left so they got ordered along with new wheel seals. Never seen a vehicle where you have to remove the wheel bearing to change the rotors, what a pain in the arse.


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Oh and don’t forget this little engineering gem. You can’t get the suspension bolt out without dropping the entire front differential. If it was installed with the nut on that side it would be super easy. Nope, GM specifically calls for it to be installed that way.

After I fired up the forum google machine, I see everyone just cuts it. Then they install a new one in the opposite direction.


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Had the day off so I disassembled the front suspension to rebuild it. It was in desperate need of a rebuild. The desert dry heat destroyed the rubber bushings. Both lower ball joints were shot and the boots on the uppers were dry rotted. Brakes were only about 20% left so they got ordered along with new wheel seals. Never seen a vehicle where you have to remove the wheel bearing to change the rotors, what a pain in the arse.


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Yuck.
 
Did rotors on my 1986 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. Total disassembly of hubs and all wheel bearings. Plus had press out the wheel stud and press them in to the new rotors. mtmuley
Yep, I forgot how those went. I’ve done those too but it’s been a while. When GM went to sealed wheel bearings I thought all the rotors were slide over the stud design. It took me a min to figure out that these had to have all the studs pressed out, then the wheel bearing bolts removed in order to take the rotor off. My brass hammer got a workout today.
 
So this is why I don’t like IFS and was originally looking at the older burbs with a straight axle. This suburban only has 119k on the odometer. It had 3 good parts in the entire front end. The right wheel bearing and both inner tie rods were the only things not obvious wore out. But with that there is no sense leaving those to just replace them later.


It got new bushing, new ball joints, inner and out tie rods, rotors, pads, caliper rubber seal kit, brake lines, and new wheel bearings. The only wear item going back in is the wheel studs, lol. Good thing my labor is cheap, parts alone were over a grand.
 
FB Marketplace is a good tool when shopping for deals.

Found these Hummer H2 with good tires. Got a great deal because of the odd size but it will work perfectly for me. They are 255/80 R17. Which is a 33” by 10” wide tire. Perfect balance between MPG and still getting the height for extra ground clearance. Didn’t want the typical 33/12.50 or 287/75. That extra width only sucks down more fuel on the highway.

These will clear but I am curious how much room is left for chains. Should be about an inch if I did my math right.


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