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Big ol Burban?

I also finished tacking and dry fitting the exhaust. Here is how the under the drive shaft turned out. I have some hangers to add but otherwise it is ready to go to the welder to get finished. You can see the entire exhaust is between the frame rails. I didn’t want it hanging down like the factory did. I don’t need rocks ripping it off 1200 miles from home. IMG_3095.jpegIMG_3096.jpeg
 
OK, now I'm getting a better idea of what you meant. I was thinking you were putting an equalizer crosspipe under the shaft farther back. Brainfart, I guess. Going under where you did shouldn't be an issue. How much room do you have to get at the driveshaft yoke bolts? Hard to tell. I've busted the rear u-joint before and taking the driveshaft out to keep driving while you're pissed off is a pain in the ass sometimes. Hopefully your front one won't break because it will tear up some shit in a hurry!
 
OK, now I'm getting a better idea of what you meant. I was thinking you were putting an equalizer crosspipe under the shaft farther back. Brainfart, I guess. Going under where you did shouldn't be an issue. How much room do you have to get at the driveshaft yoke bolts? Hard to tell. I've busted the rear u-joint before and taking the driveshaft out to keep driving while you're pissed off is a pain in the ass sometimes. Hopefully your front one won't break because it will tear up some shit in a hurry!
This transfer case has its slip yoke inside the case. You can’t pull the rear shaft and still drive it. I chose to keep it factory so all the switches and Speedo work.

Goal is to not break and spend more time hunting.
 
Wrapped up working on it for the weekend. Did a lot of loose ends while I wait for parts.

Got the transmission fully installed. Had to remove the driver’s side carpet to get to the shift cable. After fabricating a bracket the shifter is all hooked up. It’s not the prettiest but works well. I added an heavy zip insurance policy to it, I had this bracket in the jeep and the cable fell out once. Also added a deep finned aluminum pan to help cool it. That way if I decide to tow with it, temps shouldn’t be an issue.

The driveshafts are marked and loaded up in the car to go to get the length changed. 1 1/4” off the front and the same added to the rear.

Finished up some wiring for the gas pedal and brake controller. Had to cut a 1 1/2” hole in the fire wall and run everything inside.



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Ballpark ETA for a test drive?
Maybe September, who knows. The headers need to get coated and that is 4-5 weeks once I send them out. I have to fabricate heat shields yet. I ordered some threaded pillars to weld on to the header pipes. I figured I would make them like factory manifolds where the heat shields bolt right to it. Most of the header will be open but near the pinion and steering shaft I will add one.

All of that needs to be done before the fenders go back on. Then I have to finish fabricating electric fans and wiring.

Then it has to go to get tuned. There is a lot left.




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A bunch of odds and ends with no pics. Got both differentials services. The drive shafts got adjusted, new joints, balanced, and installed. The exhaust got sent out to have a professional tig welded it up. Got in the adapter mounting bracket for the Corvette gas pedal.

Got to box up and ship out the headers yet. I decided to just get them coated and check temps once it is running.

Only thing left underneath is to plumb the fuel lines from the filter.
 
Back at it again for a few hours today. Had to wait on the exhaust to get welded and the headers jet hot coated. Got all that back last week and didn’t have time to mess with it. Boy had football conditioning and I had a boat to mess around with. So all my free time was spent, the burb had to wait.

Got the complete exhaust finished today, plug wires hooked up, and fuel system tied in. In theory it should have been able to start. However, I ran into two issues. The fuel pump only gets to 43 PSI and doesn’t hold pressure. I am going to have to do some reading on the fuel pump.

Next, the fuse block was not wired correctly. I had a constant 12v where there should have only been 12v thru the ignition. Identified the issue and the company that built it is sending me the parts to correct it. Simple fix, just need a few fuse block connectors.


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Did you get a new grille clip? I have a used one I got for my '95 1500 and never used. I would not know how to ship it to in one piece.
We would have to figure that out. I'm afraid I'm gonna roll a round bale over it one of these days.

I keep thinking I'm gonna put it on CL locally but I never have.
 
Did you get a new grille clip? I have a used one I got for my '95 1500 and never used. I would not know how to ship it to in one piece.
We would have to figure that out. I'm afraid I'm gonna roll a round bale over it one of these days.

I keep thinking I'm gonna put it on CL locally but I never have.
Thanks for the offer. I am going to order a new one from Amazon. That plastic got brittle and most all used ones break when trying to install them. For the 150 bucks it’s best to just get a new one. I doubt shipping your would make it unbroken and then we would both be out. If it’s in one piece list it on FB market place.
 
Thanks for the offer. I am going to order a new one from Amazon. That plastic got brittle and most all used ones break when trying to install them. For the 150 bucks it’s best to just get a new one. I doubt shipping your would make it unbroken and then we would both be out. If it’s in one piece list it on FB market place.
Fair enough.

Still entertaining using it on my 1988 K2500 one of these days if I don't trip over it and break it first.
 
Well crap. I was just out feeding the horse. No need to keep it any more. There is a crack from the passenger side headlight cutout to the edge.
Pffft!
 
IT RUNS!!

I can’t figure out a fuel pressure issue, think I bought a bad regulator. I have to hot wire the pump to run continuously. But I was able to get the family out today and we all saw it run for a few seconds. Now I feel better about putting more of it back together.
 
Sorry no pictures but my grandpa brother had the “ hotel on wheels” a 60’s era suburban. I kid not we would pull out the seats and sleep four in there. Throw a tarp over the seats if the weather was bad.

Then we would wheel into the area to hunt in the 68’ bronco.
 
Score of the day today! Surfing FB marketplace and saw a fresh posting for tires and rims. I happen to be in the market for new rims. There is one on the burb that is bent. Just so happens Dodge take offs are the exact same style rim but a more modern 18”. Guy wanted 650 and with the rims it would have cost me about 1650 at the tire shop. SOLD when can I get them? He realized he way under priced them as his phone blew up. He honored the ad and I ran and got them. I don’t need mud terrains but for the price I couldn’t say no.


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I read after seeing this post that the suburban is the longest running car title ever?
Longer than the ford f150? Excuse my ignorance to the subject otherwise
 
Also tried to finish up the accessory drive on the engine. Rock auto sent me a bad alternator and that put a hiccup in my plans. It was obvious they had sent it out before and it had been opened and returned. It was completely locked up. This isn’t the first time they have sent garbage back out to another customer. Drives me nuts but it’s about half cost of brick and mortar. Most of it is usually good, not this time.

Ordered a new power steering and AC pump. Neither fit like they should have. The power steering pump pressure line hits the motor mount. Have to order a 90 degree fitting to make it work.

AC pump had to have a 3/4” spacers made to get it high enough to clear the coil bracket. Made some up on the lathe and that was a quick fix. Had to cut and reweld the evap sensor bracket on the fuel rail. Nothing like welding on a full fuel rail to pucker you hole. I did the bare min tacks and called it good.



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Here is this weeks update. The engine accessories are done, it almost ready for fenders! I need to get them installed to finish routing hoses. Just a few minor preventative heat shields to tape up. Route a vacuum line and tidy up some wiring. Oh and I did a thing, promo code Randy didn’t work. But a great Ebay price and the current $100 rebate made it $462! That is cheaper than harbor freight. Anyone wanting one can get one this weekend yet for that same price on eBay thru trendsauto.


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