Big ol Burban

Back working on this again this weekend. Finally got the radiator in after 13 weeks of frustration with the manufacturer. They made the first one completely wrong, then took forever to build it correctly as I had ordered it. Had to custom make a bracket for the upper hose. It only had about 1/2” of clearance from the alternator. So with the weight of coolant and vibration I was worried it would hit the pulley and cut it.

Ordered another tray to make it dual batteries for the winch. This was pretty easy converting as the diesel came with it from the factory. Just need to wire it up and decide on a parallel switch set up. Looking at a MT company for that.


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This week was starting electrical and figuring out how everything is going to mount. Decided the original way was going to be the easiest. Only issue was that the new computer was completely different than the old one. So a little fabrication with a cutting board and it was as good as new. Had to eBay and get a new fuse box holder. Mine was broken when I got it. Once that get here the system just needs the dual batteries and fans wired in to wrap it up.

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So a pretty slow week, mainly planning and ordering parts.

Ordered and got in the 16” electric fans. They were too big to go side by side and have to go back. I really need 15” for the shroud I was sent. They don’t really make a stand alone 15” that would work. I have some in the cart to try but am waiting on talking with the radiator manufacturer to see what their product cost.

Next was trying to figure out the air intake system. I want it to look as factory as possible for a 2009 LS2. The factory 99 burb stuff won’t work and was bad to begin with. Just running a tube/cone air filter will be sucking hot air and is not optimal.

The LS2 system will line up with the factory cold air intake in the fender but is about 1.5” too high. I think I will probably be able to just cut the bottom down and mount it with some 90 degrees tabs to the wheel well liner. Ordered a universal 4” tube meant for these custom applications. Need to figure out how I want to merge the needed sensors or if I am going to buy a different style mass airflow sensor. Decisions….

Got both batteries purchased and installed, need the new 2 AWG wire to get here to make the new battery cables up. Decided not to use the original ones when I saw how corroded the grounds were inside the lining. Cut off 6” and it was still green with corrosion. Decided to just scrap them and go all new.

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I follow to see the end result , very cool project.
Not to hijack, but I come across this deal, thought I’d share it. Not sure if it’s a scam or not I messaged him. Said he would take a grand for it. It’s just down the road from me, I might go look at it.
 
I follow to see the end result , very cool project.
Not to hijack, but I come across this deal, thought I’d share it. Not sure if it’s a scam or not I messaged him. Said he would take a grand for it. It’s just down the road from me, I might go look at it.

You can see what’s involved. If the body is good, with no rust, it is easily worth that. In the rust bucket area, which Florida can be, these are hard to get in good shape.

On the GMT400 forum you could easily flip that and make some money.

I would bet I will have north of 20k invested by the time mine is completed. You don’t have to get in such detail as I am. Mine is being built to drive anywhere I want to go. So whether that is AK or AZ I need it to be good.
 
You can see what’s involved. If the body is good, with no rust, it is easily worth that. In the rust bucket area, which Florida can be, these are hard to get in good shape.

On the GMT400 forum you could easily flip that and make some money.
I wondered about flipping it ? Used LS and shine and buff ? I’ll go look at it tomorrow.
 
I wondered about flipping it ? Used LS and shine and buff ? I’ll go look at it tomorrow.

Just a trailer and flip. You put anything more than that in it you will loose money. That forum or a northern state is where it needs to be advertised.

To bare bones LS it you will have several grand. The harness alone will set you back 1300-1500 dollars for one that makes everything work.

You will likely have to swap it for a 4l80e trans that came with the gas models.
 
Just a trailer and flip. You put anything more than that in it you will loose money. That forum or a northern state is where it needs to be advertised.

To bare bones LS it you will have several grand. The harness alone will set you back 1300-1500 dollars for one that makes everything work.

You will likely have to swap it for a 4l80e trans that came with the gas models.
Something like this ?

 
Something like this ?


That is a GEN 5 that isn’t compatible. The computers are not unlocked and cannot be modified. GM stopped releasing info to open the computer. That is a paper weight unless you have the exact vehicle it came out of.

You could possibly make it run with a Holley sniper but the trans won’t work.

That suburban needs a Gen 3 or 4. Gen 3 is the cheapest option if the burbans wiring harness is intact and unmolested. Still will be several thousand in just getting a good engine and getting it running. Trans will be 13-1600 for a reman. Transfer case needs to be gone thru. That model was prone to burning up the case.
 
Last fender and hood are back on! Got the Hells Roaring battery switch wired up with a remote. I can run just one, automatic switching, or both batteries with the flip of a switch for the winch. All new battery cables and two new interstate batteries. Now, I need to figure out my air intake. That is really the last piece of fabrication under the hood. The factory one I wanted to use just doesn’t fit well, so I scrapped the idea. Oh, my Spal electric fans should be here this week and then under the hood is done and it’s ready for the dyno to get the programming done.

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Pretty frustrating week on this project. Trying to finish the wiring and finding a couple SNAFUs. The fan harness needs to be able to handle 40 amps. It is currently rated at 35 amps. A quick phone call to the harness builder and one was ordered. Well it didn’t ship for a week and a follow up email got it moving. It would appear they grabbed a stock unit from the shelf and sent it without looking at what they already built. It doesn’t match anything, or even have a plug in, and has to get sent back. Absolutely a waste of time and money to send that out.


My gas pedal has been throwing error codes. I’ve been chasing my tail trying to figure it out. Come to find out GM used the same connector for Gen 4 pedals. Most all of them are interchangeable with the switch of two wires. Well with that same communication with the harness company, I get notified it has to be a Trailblazer pedal. That is the one oddball GM produced for that series, yet still used the same connector. So the corvette pedal installed is a waste of 120 bucks along with the 40 adapter bracket to mount it. Gee, that would have been nice to know when you sold me the harness, or maybe noted on the non existent installation instructions.

Finally, the 2 new interstate batteries seems to have one that is defective. It won’t keep a charge and has acted like a dead battery since install.

Hopefully this is the last of the gremlins for a while.
 
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Any project like that you're bound to get residual waste , hard not to , but yeah , it should've been made clear . It's the little stuff , tying up the loose ends , that takes the most time , IMO .


There is some good news, I was able to score the right pedal at the local junk yard for 5 bucks. The battery switch I installed worked like a charm. With the flip of a switch I can change to the good battery and start it. With the right pedal the check engine light is gone and the idle is smooth. With the system not in default limp mode it runs significantly better. Plus now it is actually drivable.
 
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