BrentD
Well-known member
No. Bolt guns are pretty much outside of my wheelhouse. I do not have much use for them. The Krag is just quirky enough it be arractive.So I take it you don’t own a Mannlicher Schoenauer?
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No. Bolt guns are pretty much outside of my wheelhouse. I do not have much use for them. The Krag is just quirky enough it be arractive.So I take it you don’t own a Mannlicher Schoenauer?
I have a Krag. mtmuleyNo. Bolt guns are pretty much outside of my wheelhouse. I do not have much use for them. The Krag is just quirky enough it be arractive.
See, we are like twin bothers of different mothers.I have a Krag. mtmuley
Man, you made me chuckle. Agree on Benedikt.I started to comment on an Outdoor Life video demonstrating the "right way" to work a bolt. Then I remembered that I don't give two farts what a von Benedikt says.
Maybe that crappy bolt technique is why he needed to steal a buck from a little girl.
My OPINION on bolts is that if you cannot lift the bolt handle with the heel of your hand (Or better, your pinky) and pull it back to the stop, then rotate your hand and close it with your thumb. All in a smooth motion - It needs work. When testing this you will need to dry fire, so all safety practices are required. Verify the chamber (AND MAGAZINE) are clear, keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
Both my "raspy" Ruger M77 rifle's bolts were slicked up with Arm and Hammer toothpaste and a lot of strokes. Phase one is to remove the trigger and sear. Disassemble the bolt and cocking piece. Put the toothpaste on the shroud threads. Sit there and turn it in and out while you watch FT+. Phase two is to reassemble the striker assembly. Put the compound on the striker/ bolt cam interface and work the bolt until the lift smooths up. Phase three is put the toothpaste on the rails and work the bolt in and out. DO NOT put it on the lugs and DO NOT close the bolt. (You do not want to muck up the headspace.) Phase four is sell the rifle and buy a Model 70. (Just Kidding!)
The Chrome-moly Ruger is still way smoother than the stainless steel one. On my blued 30-06 the last step was to blue the claw extractor. Now I am suddenly thinking I may need @p_ham to jewel that one.
I do not own one, but the smoothest bolt I ever felt was on a US Army Krag.
You mean like these guys?I started to comment on an Outdoor Life video demonstrating the "right way" to work a bolt. Then I remembered that I don't give two farts what a von Benedikt says.
Maybe that crappy bolt technique is why he needed to steal a buck from a little girl.
My OPINION on bolts is that if you cannot lift the bolt handle with the heel of your hand (Or better, your pinky) and pull it back to the stop, then rotate your hand and close it with your thumb. All in a smooth motion - It needs work. When testing this you will need to dry fire, so all safety practices are required. Verify the chamber (AND MAGAZINE) are clear, keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
Both my "raspy" Ruger M77 rifle's bolts were slicked up with Arm and Hammer toothpaste and a lot of strokes. Phase one is to remove the trigger and sear. Disassemble the bolt and cocking piece. Put the toothpaste on the shroud threads. Sit there and turn it in and out while you watch FT+. Phase two is to reassemble the striker assembly. Put the compound on the striker/ bolt cam interface and work the bolt until the lift smooths up. Phase three is put the toothpaste on the rails and work the bolt in and out. DO NOT put it on the lugs and DO NOT close the bolt. (You do not want to muck up the headspace.) Phase four is sell the rifle and buy a Model 70. (Just Kidding!)
The Chrome-moly Ruger is still way smoother than the stainless steel one. On my blued 30-06 the last step was to blue the claw extractor. Now I am suddenly thinking I may need @p_ham to jewel that one.
I do not own one, but the smoothest bolt I ever felt was on a US Army Krag.
I'll try to get a pic today. Fun as Hell to shoot. My Grandfather even saved the brass. All I need is dies. mtmuleySee, we are like twin bothers of different mothers.
I'll show ya mine if you show me yours?
Is that 100 yards Brent?This one is mine. Working on some cast bullet loads. It is an easy rifle to shoot.
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Yes.Is that 100 yards Brent?
Not bad.Yes.
It will kill a deer. Not that I have hunted with it. Probably never will.Not bad.
Sorry, been casting bullets and running dogs. That looks like a really nice one in much more original condition. I love the Lyman sight on it. I fitted mine with a vintage sight - the name of which escapes me, but it is not nearly as nice as the Lyman and it will not reach very far.@BrentD, where are you? I posted my Krag. Know nothing about it except my Grandfather hunted with it. And a 94 which I also have. mtmuley
I will have to check the barrel length. Thst ramp sight isn't original is it? mtmuleyIt will kill a deer. Not that I have hunted with it. Probably never will.
Sorry, been casting bullets and running dogs. That looks like a really nice one in much more original condition. I love the Lyman sight on it. I fitted mine with a vintage sight - the name of which escapes me, but it is not nearly as nice as the Lyman and it will not reach very far.
How long is your barrel? Mine is uncut, but I can't recall how long it is. It is full rifle length, whatever that was originally. Not a carbine.
I am loading 5477 for it - only about 20 grains, so a very light load. My bullet is the Lyman 311291 which weighs in at about 170 grs - gas checked. I have also used the "Krag" bullet (Lyman 311284?) which weighs well over 210 grs. Not been able to keep that one on paper at 200, but shoots well enough at 100. I think it is too long to be very stable.
I'm not sure I don't think so, but 1. I know very little about ANY bolt rifle. 2. If that is a carbine, it may very well have a different front sight than mine. I believe mine is original, but there are reasons to doubt that (e.g., clip on front sight hood), and my rear barrel sight is definitely not original.I will have to check the barrel length. Thst ramp sight isn't original is it? mtmuley