Are butter-smooth actions overrated?

[BrentD]

So I take it you don’t own a Mannlicher Schoenauer?

No. Bolt guns are pretty much outside of my wheelhouse. I do not have much use for them. The Krag is just quirky enough it be arractive.

 

[mtmuley]

No. Bolt guns are pretty much outside of my wheelhouse. I do not have much use for them. The Krag is just quirky enough it be arractive.

I have a Krag. mtmuley

 

[BrentD]

I have a Krag. mtmuley

See, we are like twin bothers of different mothers.



I'll show ya mine if you show me yours?

 

[jeff_gibbons]

I started to comment on an Outdoor Life video demonstrating the "right way" to work a bolt. Then I remembered that I don't give two farts what a von Benedikt says.
Maybe that crappy bolt technique is why he needed to steal a buck from a little girl.

My OPINION on bolts is that if you cannot lift the bolt handle with the heel of your hand (Or better, your pinky) and pull it back to the stop, then rotate your hand and close it with your thumb. All in a smooth motion - It needs work. When testing this you will need to dry fire, so all safety practices are required. Verify the chamber (AND MAGAZINE) are clear, keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Both my "raspy" Ruger M77 rifle's bolts were slicked up with Arm and Hammer toothpaste and a lot of strokes. Phase one is to remove the trigger and sear. Disassemble the bolt and cocking piece. Put the toothpaste on the shroud threads. Sit there and turn it in and out while you watch FT+. Phase two is to reassemble the striker assembly. Put the compound on the striker/ bolt cam interface and work the bolt until the lift smooths up. Phase three is put the toothpaste on the rails and work the bolt in and out. DO NOT put it on the lugs and DO NOT close the bolt. (You do not want to muck up the headspace.) Phase four is sell the rifle and buy a Model 70. (Just Kidding!)

The Chrome-moly Ruger is still way smoother than the stainless steel one. On my blued 30-06 the last step was to blue the claw extractor. Now I am suddenly thinking I may need @p_ham to jewel that one.

I do not own one, but the smoothest bolt I ever felt was on a US Army Krag.

Man, you made me chuckle. Agree on Benedikt.

 

[jeff_gibbons]

I don’t think smooth vs other matters as much as other mechanical aspects. I got into rifles later in life and started with a little Howa 308. It was a shooter. Have since owned REM 700, savage 110, Ruger 77, Browning, Fierce (sako inspired design) and Defiance. There is definitely a difference in the feel and I really like the last two. All of them but the 77 shot well under an inch. To sum it up, the Toyota Carolla is a great car and will get you to your destination reliably. The Lexus LS 500 will too with a different experience.

 

[BrentD]

I started to comment on an Outdoor Life video demonstrating the "right way" to work a bolt. Then I remembered that I don't give two farts what a von Benedikt says.
Maybe that crappy bolt technique is why he needed to steal a buck from a little girl.

My OPINION on bolts is that if you cannot lift the bolt handle with the heel of your hand (Or better, your pinky) and pull it back to the stop, then rotate your hand and close it with your thumb. All in a smooth motion - It needs work. When testing this you will need to dry fire, so all safety practices are required. Verify the chamber (AND MAGAZINE) are clear, keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Both my "raspy" Ruger M77 rifle's bolts were slicked up with Arm and Hammer toothpaste and a lot of strokes. Phase one is to remove the trigger and sear. Disassemble the bolt and cocking piece. Put the toothpaste on the shroud threads. Sit there and turn it in and out while you watch FT+. Phase two is to reassemble the striker assembly. Put the compound on the striker/ bolt cam interface and work the bolt until the lift smooths up. Phase three is put the toothpaste on the rails and work the bolt in and out. DO NOT put it on the lugs and DO NOT close the bolt. (You do not want to muck up the headspace.) Phase four is sell the rifle and buy a Model 70. (Just Kidding!)

The Chrome-moly Ruger is still way smoother than the stainless steel one. On my blued 30-06 the last step was to blue the claw extractor. Now I am suddenly thinking I may need @p_ham to jewel that one.

I do not own one, but the smoothest bolt I ever felt was on a US Army Krag.

You mean like these guys?

There is a Krag at the 13:30 mark and numerous places through out if you are interested enough to watch it all. These guys know how to throw a match and shoot.

 

[mtmuley]

See, we are like twin bothers of different mothers.



I'll show ya mine if you show me yours?

I'll try to get a pic today. Fun as Hell to shoot. My Grandfather even saved the brass. All I need is dies. mtmuley

 

[BrentD]

I'll try to get a pic today. Fun as Hell to shoot. My Grandfather even saved the brass. All I need is dies. mtmuley

This one is mine. Working on some cast bullet loads. It is an easy rifle to shoot.

 

[noharleyyet]

This one is mine. Working on some cast bullet loads. It is an easy rifle to shoot.



View attachment 359302

View attachment 359303

View attachment 359301

Is that 100 yards Brent?

 

[BrentD]

Is that 100 yards Brent?

Yes.

 

[Papsqueeg]

I own several bolt guns and hunt with and all cycle smooth and easy when cycling the second round for follow up shot if needed.

 

[noharleyyet]

Yes.

Not bad.

 

[mtmuley]

See, we are like twin bothers of different mothers.



I'll show ya mine if you show me
Mine has a stamp on the stock. Hard to read and my phone camera sucks. mtmuley

 

[44hunter45]

I suppose this should be another thread. I have no trouble switching from Ruger to Mauser to Winchester, to Weatherby on bolt guns. Where I get into trouble and "short stroke" is switching from Rem 870 to Browning BPS. I would buy an A400 if I could sneak it past the comptroller.