Archery Tech Advice Sought

[windymtnman]

I'm looking for advice, or a fix for my problem, so hoping some of you "experts" out there can help me out?
I'm probably in a distinct minority here, in that I shoot a compound bow with my fingers, rather than a release. I've tried
using a release, and it's just not for me. Can't do it! Moreover, I've taught myself to shoot with all 3 fingers under the nocked arrow, rather than the conventional finger positioning. Yes, I know I should get with the program, and use a release, but at 71 yrs. of age, I can't teach this old dog a new trick.
The problem I have of course, is that over the years, the axle to axle length of bows is shrinking, so the acute angle formed by a drawn bow with my 3 fingers makes for a bit of an issue.
I bought a PSE Stinger bow, and it came with a whisker biscuit type arrow rest, and for some reason, upon releasing the arrow, I'm getting a clearance problem with the vanes going through the brushes in the arrow rest. I see a black mark on one of the vanes, and worse yet, it's tearing a vane off the arrow frequently. So, obviously the released arrow is not leaving the bow cleanly.
I wonder if my string nock is incorrectly positioned? Not sure, but it seems like that could be part of it. Does anyone have any advice as to why my arrow is cleanly leaving the bow? What should I try or do? Thanks!

 

[Bowmannate2000]

I'm no expert, but I've heard that the shorter axle to axle, as well as the increased let off of modern compounds makes string torque much more of a problem for finger shooting. Have you looked into the different styles of releases? You might be able to find something that works for you.

 

[Trial153]

The problem you will have with any fixed position rest with a finger release is that you will have lateral travel of the string when you release with your finger.

Move to plunger style rest and you should with tuning be able to clear it up.

 

[dgc1963]

Im gona second lateral travel/ string torque with fingers as compound bows get faster it compounds the issue with out a release
Plunger style rest should deff. help the issue
And also agree with bowmannate if you can find a release you like with all the different styles out there it makes a cleaner release

 

[widnert]

Same as the rest have said - string torque and lateral travel come into play with modern compounds bows when using fingers rather than a release. To add one more point to this also, with the string torque will also come the risk of de-railing the string from the cam(s) and causing a catastrophic failure either during the draw cycle or at full-draw upon release. You would not like the results.

That said, I would have to say stop using your fingers to draw/release the string. A release is the only option for modern compound bows anymore. My advice and worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

[HighWildFree]

As a fellow compound finger shooter a few things:

- PSE Stinger is crazy short ATA for shooting with fingers even with those big cams. I can shoot down to 38" ATA comfortably but shoot split and drop the top finger.

- Whisker biscuit is a fine finger rest, not as good as plunger but totally useable. They are tough on vanes. Try rotating your nock in small increments until you get good clearance (foot spray on the vanes to see where contact is).

My guess is that you can't get a clean release with 3 fingers and that hard of string angle. The string is having to come way around your fingers and throwing the arrow hard into the rest.

Shooting compound fingers these days is tough.

 

[Redman]

You are correct on the short axle to axle bows being harder to shoot with fingers.
Also when shooting fingers vs release the arrow flexes side to side vs a release causes the arrow to flex up and down AKA porpois. The whisker biscuit could be compounding this issue. Also you did not mention if you were using vanes or feathers.
Try using a stiffer spined shaft first.
Then change your arrow rest as others have mentioned.
Also use feathers vs fletch. This is not a cure all but will help if your release isn't perfect.

 

[Foggy Mountain]

The modern compound is made to be shot w releases. That’s a fact. You should try the longest bow possible. I bet that’s not an option as you won’t switch.
There are lots of things that could cause your issue. I agree it could be some torque. It could also be your release or hold. No one can possibly guess truly without seeing you shoot and even an educated guess would only be a guess still without more information like which feather is getting beat up. Post a video.
The answer to nock question is you need to be within manufacturers specs, than be shooting properly (proper form) to tune. Don’t go changing anything yet.
One item I didn’t notice addressed was the bow was made for release, fingers, especially 3 under throw the tiller way off. What have you don’t to address that?

 

[Goosebrooke]

Wisker buscuit will always contact the vane and leve marks on the vanes and will eventually tear regardless of release type. I think your bow is wrong for your style of shooting.

 

[Trevorg]

Agree with just about everything posted earlier. It was explained to me as basic geometry. Modern compound bows require the nocking point to be at the point of a triangle. With any method of release other than a release aid you are going to either flatten the tip of the triangle or move it above or below the nock. When that happens it will be very hard to maintain a consistent path no matter what style of rest you use. Hope this helps.

 

[Dan O]

Also take into consideration the high let off of the new bows. In my opinion the high let off makes a finger release very hard to be consistent due to torquing. My thought is a 50 to 60% let off would give you a better release with fingers.

 

[grizzly63]

Yes, longer ATA, less let off. Basically find an older bow on the bay, pick up a springy rest and you should be set or get a recurve and become an archer again.

 

[OutdoorEdventure]

Depending on let off try (carefully) switching to one finger under. Most bows have 80/85% l/o. You’ll need 2-3 fingers to draw. But before release, loose one finger. I draw with 3. 1 over 2 under. At full draw hold 1 over, 1 under. Just before release I free up top finger first, then release.