Working on a levergun

[p_ham]

20”…

Know of several instances where people have cut barrels 1” at a time and 18-21” shows the greatest velocity and little or no change to point of impact.

The latest one I’d seen on guns and ammo showed an increase actually of velocity going from 26” to 20”.

Barrel Length vs. Velocity - Guns and Ammo

I'm destroying a perfectly good barrel in the name of science. And not just a perfectly good barrel — an expensive one."How much velocity do I lose if I shorten the barrel on my AR?"The answer ranges from

www.gunsandammo.com

That article used a .223 for the test cartridge. It uses faster powders at a much higher pressure and only around 25gr of powder, burnout often happens around the 18-22" mark.
.308 sized cartridges also do well in the same barrel length range. Again, at higher pressure.
Since this is a low pressure round, around 43,500psi it needs more barrel and a bit slower powder to get the most out of it especially when the bullet weight goes up.

 

[Farmerj]

I’m also aware of studies that I’ve done it with a 338 Lappua

Same results 20 inch barrel

The guy that did this article, also did it with a 6.5 Creedmoor as well as the 308. In the last couple years same results 20 inch barrel

 

[mtmuley]

I’m also aware of studies that I’ve done it with a 338 Lappua

Same results 20 inch barrel

The guy that did this article, also did it with a 6.5 Creedmoor as well as the 308. In the last couple years same results 20 inch barrel

Link to the Lapua test? mtmuley

 

[Farmerj]

Link to the Lapua test? mtmuley

You’re welcome to call and talk to Todd who did the testing.

Home - Accuracy 1st

 

[p_ham]

Well it took a lot of carving but the forend fits the hand nicely.

 

[Farmerj]

Well it took a lot of carving but the forend fits the hand nicely.

You’ve got all the mills and shop equipment too?

 

[p_ham]

You’ve got all the mills and shop equipment too?

Enough to get by

 

[Farmerj]

Enough to get by..

I want to make a stock for a big horn origin action I’ve got coming and curious how guys are doing it without any machine shop.

Everything I find people do the inletting etc mostly with mills etc.

I have to do it 100% by hand the old world way.

 

[p_ham]

I want to make a stock for a big horn origin action I’ve got coming and curious how guys are doing it without any machine shop.

Everything I find people do the inletting etc mostly with mills etc.

I have to do it 100% by hand the old world way.

It's going to take longer, but it turns out the same.

Layout the center line, drill for the action screws.
Set boundary lines on each side so you know not to go past that.. Start with the action. You can use a drill press to clear a lot of material, be careful not to go too deep.. Then finish it out with chisels and sandpaper. Get a round sureform for heavy rasping. Once the action is 95% where it needs to be, screw the barrel on and inlet for that. The same way. You might not get away with pre drilling for that, depending on contour. The sureform is pretty quick anyways. Then it's just final fit and a bed job.

If you've never done it before, start on a .22 or something and get a cheap birch blank.

 

[p_ham]

Got the recoil pad fitted, final sanded the buttstock. Darkened it up just a little bit and rubbed in a coat of oil. Waiting on some steel to make a new endcap, still need to inlet the forend.
Should have the brake done today.

 

[Hammsolo]

Okay, now I’m jonesing for a badass lever rifle! You’ve got the skills to pay the bills. Kodiak/Inland Griz rifle dreams….

 

[p_ham]

Brake is done.

 

[std7mag]

I want to make a stock for a big horn origin action I’ve got coming and curious how guys are doing it without any machine shop.

Everything I find people do the inletting etc mostly with mills etc.

I have to do it 100% by hand the old world way.

I'm getting someone with the tool, knowledge, and skills to build my benchrest stock.
Not cheap.
Duplication fee is $200.
3" wide laminate $165.
Plus hand fitting time.
I'm expecting $500.
And that's not bedded, or finished.

 

[OntarioHunter]

Definitely will do.


It has less body taper than the 33win, there was also a 38-56 and 40-65 based on the 45-70 designed for black powder use. Both have long body tapers.

Power wise I should be pretty close to matching the 348.

I have an 1881 Marlin in 40-60 that was virtually identical to 40-65 Winchester. I always thought that would be a great cartridge to reintroduce.

 

[longrunner]

375 JDJ?

 

[p_ham]

375 JDJ?

Similar. The JDJ is off the 444.

 

[p_ham]

Did some work on the endcap. Still need to clean it up, make the sling stud, and make the outer fillet larger so it looks more like the factory one.

 

[p_ham]

After looking at some original 1895s, I think I'm going to leave the cap shaped as is.

I'm debating on whether or not I should bead blast this rifle or leave it brushed. The bead blasting is more durable, it surface hardens the stainless a little bit.

 

[OntarioHunter]

After looking at some original 1895s, I think I'm going to leave the cap shaped as is.

I'm debating on whether or not I should bead blast this rifle or leave it brushed. The bead blasting is more durable, it surface hardens the stainless a little bit.

I think bead blasting stainless will probably disguise wear and scratches better.

 

[p_ham]

I got the forend all inlet, and shaped it to match Marlin's factory forends .
Also got the sling stud made and attached.