Working on a levergun

[p_ham]

But you have machinery to do most of the work for ya.
I'd be stuck with a Dremel, files & sand paper.

Oh there's plenty of file work, my friend.
The rough inletting is the only part I get to use the mill on.
I will say though that an angle grinder with a 36grit flap disk is the cat's ass for rough carving.

 

[p_ham]

Still have a ways to go, work keeps getting in the way of me screwing off.
The drivers side still needs a whole bunch of work, the passenger side is getting close. I know the grip cap area still looks goofy but I've got a plan for that.

 

[std7mag]

Yeah, it's amazing how much you can get done with time & money...

My temparary retirement (workers comp) of 3 months is over. Back to work, just as hunting season is kicking off here in PA.

 

[p_ham]

Money does seem to help things out..
I bought some new tools for this project, a couple of Sureforms. I had used them on body work in the past but hadn't considered them for wood. Well worth the money.
Today I got the left side all shaped and started sanding everything.
The stock has more of a blue hue than the photos show, I might find a way to tone that down a bit.

 

[p_ham]

I've got the factory barrel pulled off, the buttstock is ready for final sand and recoil pad fitment.

I made an adjustable headspace gauge, it seems like it will work nicely. Screwed all the way together is go, no-go is set with a .004" feeler gauge. There's a set screw in the bottom that locks everything in place.

I should have the barrel work done soon, then it's time for the forend.

 

[p_ham]

I got the barrel shank cut and everything timed tonight. It needs a little bit of hand fitting on the hood and extractor groove still. Don't worry about the shitty looking chamber, it was just a quick roughing to get to the rifling where the throat will be.
Chambering and finish contour is next.

 

[std7mag]

Man, you need to Patent that design on the headspace gauges, right quick!
Start producing those puppies!

 

[p_ham]

Man, you need to Patent that design on the headspace gauges, right quick!
Start producing those puppies!

I'm sure there's a reason nobody makes them.
Sure seems handy though.

 

[std7mag]

I'll send you the list of cartridges i need headspace gauges for.

 

[nhenry]

I'll send you the list of cartridges i need headspace gauges for.

+1 on that

 

[cahunter805]

I got the barrel shank cut and everything timed tonight. It needs a little bit of hand fitting on the hood and extractor groove still. Don't worry about the shitty looking chamber, it was just a quick roughing to get to the rifling where the throat will be.
Chambering and finish contour is next.

Did you use a roughing reamer or predrill it?

Awesome project BTW! Very cool.

 

[p_ham]

Did you use a roughing reamer or predrill it?

Awesome project BTW! Very cool.

Pre drill. It'll get bored to .01 under diameter and .02 under depth before finish reaming. I think roughing reamers are a waste of money.

 

[cahunter805]

Pre drill. It'll get bored to .01 under diameter and .02 under depth before finish reaming. I think roughing reamers are a waste of money.

+1 never understood why anyone would buy a roughing reamer.

 

[p_ham]

Question of the day: 24in or 26in? It's getting a brake, I'm leaning towards 24. With lighter (200gr) bullets there's 50-75fps difference between the two. Heavier bullets is negligible.
I'd like to be in the 250gr-275gr range for bullets.

 

[cahunter805]

Question of the day: 24in or 26in? It's getting a brake, I'm leaning towards 24. With lighter (200gr) bullets there's 50-75fps difference between the two. Heavier bullets is negligible.
I'd like to be in the 250gr-275gr range for bullets.

24 would probably balance a bit better especially with an added brake.
What style of brake?

 

[p_ham]

Somewhere between these 2. Probably 4 ports long. Holes are angled between 10⁰ and 20⁰ rearward depending on the application. There's no porting on the top or bottom so they work well prone too.

 

[cahunter805]

Somewhere between these 2. Probably 4 ports long. Holes are angled between 10⁰ and 20⁰ rearward depending on the application. There's no porting on the top or bottom so they work well prone too.
View attachment 204932View attachment 204933

Pretty interesting design.

 

[std7mag]

I'd probably go with 24" also.
If nothing else, just a bit better balance.

 

[p_ham]

Got it chambered, the adjustable headspace gauge worked great. That extra shoulder on the barrel was so I could easily hold it with a V block to cut the hood and extractor groove.


Muzzle threaded, recessed crown.


Cut the flat on the bottom side of the barrel for mag tube clearance. The factory barrels have this ground as a radius, but it looks like a 10yr old did it. This looks better even though you'll never see it.

Dovetails on the bottom side for the end cap and mag tube mount. They need hand fitted yet.. Still have to cut one more in the top. It's getting a scout rail that uses the rear sight dovetail as the front mount. I'm going to throw the scope on and see if there's a better way. Yes, that's mustard on my work bench.

 

[Farmerj]

Question of the day: 24in or 26in? It's getting a brake, I'm leaning towards 24. With lighter (200gr) bullets there's 50-75fps difference between the two. Heavier bullets is negligible.
I'd like to be in the 250gr-275gr range for bullets.

20”…

Know of several instances where people have cut barrels 1” at a time and 18-21” shows the greatest velocity and little or no change to point of impact.

The latest one I’d seen on guns and ammo showed an increase actually of velocity going from 26” to 20”.

Barrel Length vs. Velocity - Guns and Ammo

I'm destroying a perfectly good barrel in the name of science. And not just a perfectly good barrel — an expensive one."How much velocity do I lose if I shorten the barrel on my AR?"The answer ranges from

www.gunsandammo.com