Woodworking Hunt Talkers?

Too thick of application.
Thin coats. I never use the foam.
Brushes or synthetic wool pads, thinned finish. Think wiping varnish.
Now it has to be rubbed down with 0000 steel wool to remove bubbles and add thin coats of wiping varnish to float it out.
Kitchen butcher blocks need mineral oil finish.
It's for a temporary "non food" work surface. And, I learned the hard way that foam is less than ideal for application.
I'm satisfied with the final coat after sanding all the herpes bumps off from previous attempts.
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Here's a hackberry self bow I just finished. I'm no woodworker but I've been enjoying this process. About 100 things I wish I could have done better/differently, but it shoots! Now I just need to find somebody who will let me cut some osage and I'll be setView attachment 281188View attachment 281189
Osage is great bow-wood, but it's a pain in the ass to work with. You'd have a blast working with some straight grained ash, hickory, oak, etc. And, that stuff is probably all around you.
 
Osage is great bow-wood, but it's a pain in the ass to work with. You'd have a blast working with some straight grained ash, hickory, oak, etc. And, that stuff is probably all around you.
Yeah, I mostly get bow wood from my brother's property and there's hickory all over the place. That's next on the list, but I do still want osage because eventually I'd like to try some pretty aggressive designs that would hold up better with osage I think. Plus I'm already not a fan of how much moisture the white woods suck up. I'll keep working with a variety of wood species though, I already have a bunch of white mulberry drying and I'm excited to see how that will work out too.
 
Yeah, I mostly get bow wood from my brother's property and there's hickory all over the place. That's next on the list, but I do still want osage because eventually I'd like to try some pretty aggressive designs that would hold up better with osage I think. Plus I'm already not a fan of how much moisture the white woods suck up. I'll keep working with a variety of wood species though, I already have a bunch of white mulberry drying and I'm excited to see how that will work out too.
Osage is awesome stuff, no doubt. Just tough to find a clean stave, so it can be demanding of your skills, working around all the knots and bends. I've never worked with mulberry or hackberry. I've made a bunch out of ash and hickory, one maple, one osage. Fun stuff!
 
So this is the first time I saw something about woodworking. I owned n worked every day of the week building custom furniture and cabinetry shop. Would tell my customers to try to think of things that they would not believe can be done. And always had a theme that fits the needs. All self taught from H S wood shop. No internet then.It's such a beautiful medium to work with.
Anyhows just wanted to get involved in this thread. And give some background. I did a kitchen for a custom big house that was featured on the food channel 3 separate times according to customer. Had 3 flights of stairs with 4' wide 3" thick treads. 5 bathroom vanities includes solid wood tops. All my stuff was solid wood. Handrails. Dining table that went from 8' to 14' all wood was from ak white spruce or birch. Dumbwaiter doors. Absolutely beautiful setting and make me pretty good.
Yeah I get into wood. From walking through the forest to anything the customers wanted. Loved the job but hard to spend time with family n pay all the bills to. Just starting doing something else one day. I'll have that.
Excuse me for talking woodworking but the feeling is probably mutual
 
We have an old growth birch tree near our cabin. It is totally full of burls. Big, 2 guys can't reach around it.
I enjoy seeing great trees ,and this one is getting near time to use. And built furniture from. I'm not a sawer so I haven't cut many trees apart, im an end user. I believe that the wood grain inside a tree like this would be very mixed or some tiger stripes. But not sure, not my wheelhouse.
So what do you all think the inside of this birch trees grain would look like ? Is there any certain way this should be cut, probably have it quarter sawn ?
The biggest issue with processing this tree is that it's 10 miles off of any road across a lot of tioga, ak version of swamp. I've got heavy hauler freight sled and snogo but oofda this is a heavy tree. Any guide on how heavy a 10' bottom section would be?
I want to build new furniture for the new home we are building and kinda want to use our own wood to .
Any suggestions are appreciated folks
 

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We have an old growth birch tree near our cabin. It is totally full of burls. Big, 2 guys can't reach around it.
I enjoy seeing great trees ,and this one is getting near time to use. And built furniture from. I'm not a sawer so I haven't cut many trees apart, im an end user. I believe that the wood grain inside a tree like this would be very mixed or some tiger stripes. But not sure, not my wheelhouse.
So what do you all think the inside of this birch trees grain would look like ? Is there any certain way this should be cut, probably have it quarter sawn ?
The biggest issue with processing this tree is that it's 10 miles off of any road across a lot of tioga, ak version of swamp. I've got heavy hauler freight sled and snogo but oofda this is a heavy tree. Any guide on how heavy a 10' bottom section would be?
I want to build new furniture for the new home we are building and kinda want to use our own wood to .
Any suggestions are appreciated folks
I would keep as much of the tree trunk and root ball intact as possible. I would cut it well above the crotch. It may not be a bad idea to contact a professional Sawyer to look at it before doing anything. There's a Forestry Forum that has many good contacts. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php
 
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I would keep as much of the tree trunk and root ball intact as possible. I would cut it well above the crotch. It may not be a bad idea to contact a professional Sawyer to look at it before doing anything. There's a Forestry Forum that has many good contacts. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php
No crotch in this tree. Straight trunk for 30 feet. Yes I have a sawer friend that is a pro.
Biggest problem may be getting it freighted out as I would want 10' sections. Any guess about how much birch weights per sq/ft ?
Thanks folks
 
No crotch in this tree. Straight trunk for 30 feet. Yes I have a sawer friend that is a pro.
Biggest problem may be getting it freighted out as I would want 10' sections. Any guess about how much birch weights per sq/ft ?
Thanks folks
Very heavy if green or even standing dead. On the ground peel the bark and it will dry fairly quickly, even if you just run the saw down the length of the trunk enough to slice through the cambium layer.
 

there is a tree weight calculator on this website that may help give am idea what it weighs.
What a great chart of information! I've printed it and am adding it to my mill library.
 
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