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Walnut syrup making

buckbull

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
1,478
Decided to tap some walnut trees this year to make syrup. Built and evaporator from a stove steel drum kit and an evaporator I bought from amazon. I pulled my taps and froze the sap, went on a fishing trip. Will boil the sap this weekend.

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When I did maple syrup, I think I would do about 40-60 gallons of sap per run. Lots of buckets! Lots of time!

Your furnace setup is very cool, with better control than the one I built out of cinder blocks. But it could also potentially be tough to finish a small batch on the main furnace if you don't have a progressive series of pans, without burning or frothing over. So you might have to get it down to a couple gallons of “almost” concentrate and then finish in a large pot on a smaller burner. By the way, a little powdered coffee creamer on hand is good if the froth kicks up, a sprinkle tames the bubbles temporarily. Keep a seive on hand to scoop out and toss any foamy stuff on top. Good luck!
 
We did this with a bunch of walnut trees. Things I learned.

1.Reverse osmosis is an immense timesaver.
2.Don’t cook it down in the garage(your tools will all rust)
3. It’s about 50 gallons of sap to 1 gallon of syrup.
4. A little goes a long way(if you’re constipated, this will take care of it).
5. It’s delicious.
 
When I did maple syrup, I think I would do about 40-60 gallons of sap per run. Lots of buckets! Lots of time!

Your furnace setup is very cool, with better control than the one I built out of cinder blocks. But it could also potentially be tough to finish a small batch on the main furnace if you don't have a progressive series of pans, without burning or frothing over. So you might have to get it down to a couple gallons of “almost” concentrate and then finish in a large pot on a smaller burner. By the way, a little powdered coffee creamer on hand is good if the froth kicks up, a sprinkle tames the bubbles temporarily. Keep a seive on hand to scoop out and toss any foamy stuff on top. Good luck!
My plan is to do just that, get it evaporated down and finish on stove. This is my first year so didn't go all in on equipment like progressive pans or testing tools. I collect the sap every afternoon while hiking with my dog. Filter it when I get home and put in freezer.
 
A neighbor down the road just tapped a row of Larch trees along his driveway . I guess another alternative to Maple syrup.
Don't want to discourage Walnut syrup making, but be aware that spile marks on the butt log of a veneer quality tree will devalue it by a lot . I mean by hundreds of dollars and those marks don't go away.
 
A neighbor down the road just tapped a row of Larch trees along his driveway . I guess another alternative to Maple syrup.
Don't want to discourage Walnut syrup making, but be aware that spile marks on the butt log of a veneer quality tree will devalue it by a lot . I mean by hundreds of dollars and those marks don't go away.
I read a post about this on a maple syrup Facebook group. Some people said that it adds value and others disagree so I asked our DNR forester and he confirmed the only time it would add value is if you a niche buyer. So, like John said, I’d be very careful choosing which walnut trees I tap. That being said, I’ve had birch syrup and walnut syrup. The sweetness is very noticeably, the birch syrup is light in color while the walnut was almost black.
 
I've heard of and have done Birch syrup before. It's great tasting but at 70 to 80 gallons of sap to one gallon of syrup and getting a much smaller amount per tree it's really a waste of time.

I've also done alder syrup and that has a much higher concentrate as it's more like 25 to 30 gallons to one but the flavor is for sure less desirable to maple syrup
 
My plan is to do just that, get it evaporated down and finish on stove. This is my first year so didn't go all in on equipment like progressive pans or testing tools. I collect the sap every afternoon while hiking with my dog. Filter it when I get home and put in freezer.
One more suggestion, a key part of making the process even remotely efficient is to keep the boil ROLLING. If you add cold sap or a frozen block you will increase your time considerably. If it’s not boiling, it’s not working close to quickly. So (1) thaw ALL your sap just before starting and have a pre-warmer setup for each new bucket you plan to pour into your boiler, don’t lose that boil.

Ok, I lied, another tip…. NEVER run your boiler without liquid in the pan, will warp the crap out of everything, and don’t let liquid get too low either, will more easily scorch.

Final tip… if finishing indoors, windows open everwhere with a fan blowing steam out… items near the stove will drip with condensation otherwise and even become a little sticky.

Honestly, its a lot of fun, and every single setup is different and you will be sharing your own tips to the next intrepid sugar shacker in no time.
 
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One more suggestion, a key part of making the process even remotely efficient is to keep the boil ROLLING. If you add cold sap or a frozen block you will increase your time considerably. If it’s not boiling, it’s not working close to quickly. So (1) thaw ALL your sap just before starting and have a pre-warmer setup for each new bucket you plan to pour into your boiler, don’t lose that boil.

Ok, I lied, another tip…. NEVER run your boiler without liquid in the pan, will warp the crap out of everything, and don’t let liquid get too low either, will more easily scorch.

Final tip… if finishing indoors, windows open everwhere with a fan blowing steam out… items near the stove will drip with condensation otherwise and even become a little sticky.

Honestly, its a lot of fun, and every single setup is different and you will be sharing your own tips to the next intrepid sugar shacker in no time.
I bought a portable induction hot plate for the final cook down which ill do outside. I had read in other forums the issues that you described. Thanks for the advice.
 
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