Brentster7189
New member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2010
- Messages
- 398
Bueller? Curious if anyone that has this tent has noticed a structural benefit of going 4 columns instead of 3. Obviously 4 would be better, but it may also be overkill.
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One benefit of 4 poles over 3 is that the peak and Eve poles will be much shorter.Bueller? Curious if anyone that has this tent has noticed a structural benefit of going 4 columns instead of 3. Obviously 4 would be better, but it may also be overkill.
I pulled the trigger this morning on a 12'x14' tent package from Davis Tent. It comes with one window, screen door, floor, angle kit, and stove.
I'll need to buy and cut the EMT for the frame.
I will be comfy for that November muley hunt in NV. I've secured up to 14 days of vacation to make it happen.
Ok, thanks. I definitely want the sunforger. Also, wondering if the fire retardent is worth the extra cost? I do plan on having a stove but it seems like a lot of people skip this option.
Flames and Fires
Because canvas is made from an extremely heavy-duty, plain-woven fabric, care must be taken when cooking with an open flame or burning fire. Canvas, by itself, is highly flammable, so when purchasing a canvas tent, ensure that the canvas has been treated with a flame retardant. Canvas tents are a legal requirement in some states such as California, Michigan and Minnesota and must pass flammability standards of CPAI-84.
Read more : http://www.ehow.com/about_6698251_canvas-tent-safety.html
does anyone run pads or feet on the bottom of their internal frame poles? Are they not needed?
My frame kit came with rubber feet. similar to what you see on a pair of aluminum crutches. They work great.
Big fin:T-Bone:
I spend about 50-70 nights a year in wall tents. Here are some notes I have learned from that.
Get something in the 12'X14' range, unless you have a big crew and that big crew wants to help you put it up. Anything bigger is a serious PITA for one guy. I can do my 12'X14' in about an hour, from start to finish.
Most important point of all - Get an adjustable frame. A frame that is adjustable at every pole and every joint. You cannot adjust most tent frames, or can only adjust parts of it. When you have unlevel areas, you end up with the frame being tweaked and twisted, or shovelling to level the spots, without a fully adjustable frame. I have had wall tents from different companies, and only found one that had an adjustable frame legs at every leg, and those are the tents I am currently using.
Make sure every part of the frame can be adjusted for length, not just height. Otherwise you have a lot of slack in your canvas when it drapes over the frame. Take it from experience, if you are on a mountain at 9,500' in Nevada and the wind blows 30 mph all night, the flapping of that loose canvas will keep you awake, no matter how tired you are. Or, if you get 30" of snow in WY, that loose canvas acts like a catch trap and you will have a ton of snow saggin the canvas down between the rafters.
Get the lightest weight fabric you can. Traditional canvas is kind by the wayside with the new stuff that is out there. My tents have a fabric with SunForger. It is a marine grade fabric. Very waterproof, very light, and very durable.
Make your own stakes. Get some long spike, weld a big 1" washer at the top, and paint them pink or orange so you don't step on them as often. Good way to screw up a hunt is to step on a tent stake you did not see and roll an ankle.
Get a snap in floor. Probably my favorite part of my tents.
Only get one door. You can order with a door on each end, but that is a PITA. Hard enough to get the frame tight with the one door, let alone two. And, you lose the use of the end without the door, which usually is good for another cot or storying all your junk.
On the end without the door, make sure it has a grommet or buckle about 3' up the wall, allowing you to tie off that wall to another stake. Face that wall into the prevailing wind. When you tie off the rope to the buckle, it pulls that wall really tight and helps with wind and rain. If done right, it will be really tight when you tie it off.
Get at least a 4" sod skirt around the tent. Anyting smaller will not tuck in beneath your tent poles and you will have dust and snow blowing in underneath.
Get zipper windows on each side of the tent, with plastic windows. It can get really hot in a wall tent in September. You want some ventilation. And, in the winter, one guy might like it 100F and have the stove to the point of melting and you might like it closer to 68F. A window helps you stay comfortable if you find yourself in came with menopausal hunting buddies, all of whom I have found to be men.
My tents have been modified. As you know, Denver Tent was involved in our show the first two seasons. There was a reason for that. They make the best tent I have found. I gave them a ton of feedback after that, and much of it has been incorporated into their tents.
I get nothing for saying this and I haven't been in touch with them for two years. But, they do make the best wall tent I have ever found. And with the changes they have made, I suspect they are even better.
Maybe some others make the fully adjustable frames, but if so, I have yet to find it. These tents I have just finished their third season. They look almost brand new. Everyone who has joined us is very impressed with how well they work.
I previously had some wall tents from other companies, and I gave those away. That hurt, as I had paid a lot of money. But, their frames sucked. Good coverings are easy to find. Most tent companies have good canvas or substitute. The frames take some thought and some money to do right. That is where most tent companies go cheap.
To your exact questions, here are my answers. Like all advice, it is worth what you paid for it.
If you get Sunforger, or similar fabric, the first thing you do is set it up in your yard and wet it down. Let it dry in the sun. That tightens the weave of the fabric even tighter.
You can use a tarp over the roof, but I do not on mine. Just one more hassle. If the wind blows snow under the tarp, it never dries. I see other guys with a different opinion than I have.
As far as snow loads, I have had 24" dumps on mine and they were fine. Just make sure you had the frame and fabric tight to start with. Go inside and push the ceiling up, and the snow should slide down.
We had 60+mph winds in WY this year and it did not bother the tent. Have had similar winds in NV, MT, and other WY trips. A tight frame is paramount. Loose fabric over a frame becomes a parachute. Not what you want when the wind blows.
You won't fit it in your backpack, if that is what you are asking. You already knew that.
My 12'X14' rolls up to a roll that is 3' wide, and stands about 2' tall when rolled up. The frame is in three different bags.
Internal, no doubt. Way easier to get the fabric tightented over the frame. The frame poles can then be used to hang lanterns, build clothes lines for drying stuff, etc.
If you are interested, here is the website for Denver Tent. They call their wall tent the Colorado Tent. Sounds like a good fit for a guy from Montrose.
https://denvertent.com/common2.php?product_id=1000&root_id=1
Phone is: 1-800-869-7044
If you talk to them, tell them you read about here. Hopefully they won't say, "On Your Own What?" They are good guys. If I made a tent of that quality, I would own the market. Not sure why they don't market more and push those tents.
Good luck.