Tuning compound assist.

Sytes

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2009
Messages
14,086
Location
Montana
I've been slinging for MT's upcoming archery season and doing my best to dial it in.
For the most part all is well though, I initially dismissed the bow's sound as normal though it still kinda stuck with me.

I noticed on my upper silencer/vibration dampening unit (pic #1), the hex nuts were a loose and it appears my lower unit has been taking the brunt of the impact with the color change in the string(?). (pic #2)

Pic#1
IMG_20180830_151802.jpg

Pic#2
IMG_20180830_151817.jpg

So my question: when positioning two silence/vibration dampening units, are they lightly just touching, a fraction of space (I wouldn't think so though...), or should they both press into the string a fraction?

Thanks.
 
I run mine to where they just touch the string, but cause no deflection in the string. It looks like yours are pushing against the string slightly? Might just be the angle of the picture? I have an older Bear (2012 Motive 6) that has 2 string stops like yours.

Also, your string looks a bit dry (needing some wax) in the second pic.
 
I also set mine to touch just barely and agree that string needs some wax.
 
Thanks. Appreciate it.
Oh thanks for the heads up on the wax. Wax applied.

Another oddity... I'm grouping field tips center however, ran a test with the broadheads and they are grouping left. It's pretty clear as both are specifically grouped... Both 100g...

I liked the PSE though my life has followed Fred Bear. Used to read his articles in outdoor Life magazine.
 
Last edited:
Your bow is slightly out of tune, and you broadheads are planing. Bump your rest to the right in very small increments unit your broadheads come in. You field points shouldn’t move.
 
I have mine set where it is just barely touching. Have you by any chance walk back tuned your bow with broadheads? That process really helped me fine tune my bow.
 
Thanks all for the assistance.

Have her dialed in though have a question about the walk back tuning...

I'm a bit confused regarding the value of using the 20 pin at the 30, 40, + to identify a drift of the shots. Would shooting at the 20 with the 20 pin, 30 with the 30 pin and 40 with the 40 pin, etc... not show the same?

Thanks again.
 
I shoot the 20 pin at each distance to get like a drop chart against your up and down line. I put a piece on black electrical tape vertically in the middle of the target and aim the 20 pin for it and walk back to each yardage shooting with the 20 yard pin. You'll get a vertical view against the tape to see if the center shot is off because at each distance the arrow will drop against your vertical line and will drift one way or the other if the center shot is off.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
113,675
Messages
2,029,363
Members
36,279
Latest member
TURKEY NUT
Back
Top