Toyota forums?

[hank4elk]

Just logged back into Tacoma world to check what would someone do with my older Tacoma, I want to rebuild it with some new parts. Mentioned I had been offered $16k for it recently and I get asshat know it alls who would have taken the $16k and bought 2.....where in what world?
Just wanted lead for suspension ideas besides jack it up and put giant tires on it.
Any one know a place for solid advice?
Even the F-150 online folks are not just dicks.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Will Bilstein 5100s all around accomplish your goals or do you need springs, as well?

There’s several companies that sell the shock/spring kits in different levels.

I bought a new 4Runner back in ‘18 and started searching forums to see exactly what I wanted to accomplish my goals. I did the Bilstein 5100s with the fronts set at 0.85” to level it with the factory shocks and put factory sized BFG KO2s on at 10,000 miles.

I now have nearly 90,000 miles on it and am very happy with my setup.

Good luck with your search.

 

[MT_Chad]

I like dobinsons suspension, they are an aussie brand. Super tough stuff.
I put their nitro setup with 2" lift in the front and 1" lift springs in the back of my 4runner. Until you pull up to another 4runner it looks stock. I am slightly out of spec on my alignment, I need to get high caster upper control arms to fix it.
I read about suspension ad nauseum for about 3 months before I ordered mine, if you have any specific questions fire away.

 

[steveshuntn1]

Yeah you can’t buy a decent Corolla for 16k. Those people must be thinking of 1998 prices!

 

[OpenCountry]

Headstrong off-road customer service has been helpful for the questions I had. User friendly website with all their options for each gen Tacoma .

 

[Beignet]

What are you looking to have done? I went the cheaper route and didn’t want a lift. Used Bilstein 4600’s at all points, some Moog coil overs, and some Dayton HD leaf springs in the rear to support the topper and camping junk always in the back. Also added some airbags in the rear to cure the infamous “Taco Lean.” Forget who made the lower control arms I installed, but I used all OEM for the other front bits (lower ball joints, etc) that are critical to safety and such. I still use the stock 15” wheels with some 31x10.5’s on there that look beefy enough but we’re a stock option back in ‘96 when the truck was made.

 

[hank4elk]

What are you looking to have done? I went the cheaper route and didn’t want a lift. Used Bilstein 4600’s at all points, some Moog coil overs, and some Dayton HD leaf springs in the rear to support the topper and camping junk always in the back. Also added some airbags in the rear to cure the infamous “Taco Lean.” Forget who made the lower control arms I installed, but I used all OEM for the other front bits (lower ball joints, etc) that are critical to safety and such. I still use the stock 15” wheels with some 31x10.5’s on there that look beefy enough but we’re a stock option back in ‘96 when the truck was made.

That's basicilly what I want done.
New Toyota upper and lowers, end joints. All new OEM bushings. If they can still be found.
Original rear springs will be tough. Have a lead on guy that resprings ,springs,maybe.
I was also looking at the 4600 Bilsteins. Softer shocks. I'm not offroading much anymore ,but NM hwys will do...lol

I am going to visit Trucks Unique in Alb. again next week and see what they think of a resto-mod on my 98'. Was thinking of putting 16" rims in flat black and ST maxx to get some height without over doing the Toyota suspension. 16's are an option most folks went for and the TRD was 16's in 98. Then I can keep the stock 15's with the Kenda tires for back ups in bad weather.

335k miles on all original balls,uppers and lowers and bushings. Shocks are napa OEMs replaced 8 years ago. No tears or leaking joints. Never a drivetrain problem. I have put 300k on it myself. Factory says lowers should be replaced every 105k...LOL

 

[Beignet]

That's basicilly what I want done.
New Toyota upper and lowers, end joints. All new OEM bushings. If they can still be found.
Original rear springs will be tough. Have a lead on guy that resprings ,springs,maybe.
I was also looking at the 4600 Bilsteins. Softer shocks. I'm not offroading much anymore ,but NM hwys will do...lol

I am going to visit Trucks Unique in Alb. again next week and see what they think of a resto-mod on my 98'. Was thinking of putting 16" rims in flat black and ST maxx to get some height without over doing the Toyota suspension. 16's are an option most folks went for and the TRD was 16's in 98. Then I can keep the stock 15's with the Kenda tires for back ups in bad weather.

335k miles on all original balls,uppers and lowers and bushings. Shocks are napa OEMs replaced 8 years ago. No tears or leaking joints. Never a drivetrain problem. I have put 300k on it myself. Factory says lowers should be replaced every 105k...LOL

I used a lot of poly bushings on mine. Was going to swap them out of the lower control arm, but it’s apparently a huge pain to get the old ones out and press new ones in. I ended up just installing new non-OEM LCA’s to get rid of a squeak. OEM control arms are dang expensive and didn’t seem as critical as all the bits with actual joints.

4600’s are truly fine if you’re running a stock height suspension. Sometimes you can find a bundle of four for the first gen’s at a steep discount.

If you have ripped CV boots or anything CVJ sells good reman CV Axles and you’ll get a core charge back if yours are OEM.

The rear leafs are a pain on our old trucks. Toyota put the battery and gas tank on the drivers side. Those, in addition to it being the most sat in can cause a lean. Try to investigate any leaf springs to see if they have different pet numbers for each side of the truck to accommodate this problem. Some do, some don’t. Can be maddening to chase down.

Hope you get another 300+k out of your truck!

 

[hank4elk]

I used a lot of poly bushings on mine. Was going to swap them out of the lower control arm, but it’s apparently a huge pain to get the old ones out and press new ones in. I ended up just installing new non-OEM LCA’s to get rid of a squeak. OEM control arms are dang expensive and didn’t seem as critical as all the bits with actual joints.

4600’s are truly fine if you’re running a stock height suspension. Sometimes you can find a bundle of four for the first gen’s at a steep discount.

If you have ripped CV boots or anything CVJ sells good reman CV Axles and you’ll get a core charge back if yours are OEM.

The rear leafs are a pain on our old trucks. Toyota put the battery and gas tank on the drivers side. Those, in addition to it being the most sat in can cause a lean. Try to investigate any leaf springs to see if they have different pet numbers for each side of the truck to accommodate this problem. Some do, some don’t. Can be maddening to chase down.

Hope you get another 300+k out of your truck!

Found the spring bender guy and I can add a leaf too.
I'll use Toyota upper & lowers,new balls. I can still get them....for now. Tacoma parts are getting scarce,originals.
The truck guy says no more front Bilstein 4600's but he says he can level the truck with 5100's and get the set up I'm going for. They work with the spring guy.
I can get 16's easier than 15's. Tires too.
Truck place has good steel bumpers too.
So a plan for next year project lining up.

 

[Carl 9.3x62]

I got an Old Man Emu kit installed a few years ago on my 04 tacoma. Front and rear shocks, heavier springs on the front (added an ARB bumper and winch), and leaf springs on the back. 2.5" lift. Sits a little high in the back when empty, but not bad. I like it, but it does ride a little rough. I have been using 235/85r16 tires for years and like them a lot. Have wild peak at3w on now but had the ST Maxx on prior, and loved them.

 

[HuntTalk Freak]

I recently replaced the shocks and struts on my 2nd gen at 205k miles. Now for whatever reason the front end is sagging, I guess the new struts didn’t really line with with the specs of the old OEM ones.

Im looking at throwing some 5100’s on the front to level it out and call it a day. Everything else on the truck is solid and I just put a new drive shaft on it this year.

 

[kevine001]

I recently had Bilstein 6112's in front and 5160's in the rear, added about 2" of lift to my Tundra. The smoother ride was noticeable over the stock (4600s??). In case you want to upgrade but not go too crazy, this would be my recommendation.

 

[lifesupport4u]

I used to use yotatech. There are keyboard warriors on every forum though.

I have 6112s up front on my Tacoma with new UCAs and LCAs they seem decent.

I had 5100s with old man emu coils and somehow I broke one of the shocks - as in separated parts, not oil leak- but can’t say I was easy on them.

The Toytec stuff is nice if you want to splurge.

 

[kevine001]

Forgot to add. I had a deaver leaf pack added in the rear which increased my payload (500 or 1000 lbs?). Decreases sag when I'm loaded up with camping gear, full coolers of meat or fish, etc. Was very inexpensive to add.

Also, I considered changing out UCAs. I follow this guy on youtube. I believe he's an engineer, and he certainly knows his stuff. Saved me $$ by avoiding UCAs as they were unnecessary for my application.

 

[hank4elk]

I filled up and wrote down mileage on the Tacoma yesterday. Went in and asked Jerry hows he doing and did he get biopsy results yet. Tired and not yet.
I then asked about getting more work done on the Tacoma. In future. Tires for 15's are getting harder to get.
We went into the storage and he found a few rims and the AT3's I want. He can order...go look at the wrecks.

I went around the block and found a rolled TRD Tacoma. 4 alloy rims and a spare. The size I want,265/75r 16's. The only thing not smashed,bent or torn.
Told Jerry and he goes oh yeah, she was a bitty thing and half in the bag. She walked without a scratch. "Don't roll yours"!
So Jerry said I'll figure a good gouge price and let you know...LOL
He knows I have the website they use. So I'll get a deal. I also buttered them up with some bison burger.

There is a guy working there again now that knows Toyota's too. Besides Jerry.
More research on suspension stuff now.

 

[brocksw]

Not a forum but give the toytec folks a call. Their line of shocks are mostly made by Elka Suspension out of canada. I have elkas on my tundra and love them. Toytec offers pretty much anything you could want in terms of components. They should be able to tell you the ins and outs of what their options are and different component combinations that would save you some time and headache sifting through forums. Just give em a ring and tell em what you're trying to accomplish with your budget, they've always been super helpful for me.

 

[hank4elk]

Not a forum but give the toytec folks a call. Their line of shocks are mostly made by Elka Suspension out of canada. I have elkas on my tundra and love them. Toytec offers pretty much anything you could want in terms of components. They should be able to tell you the ins and outs of what their options are and different component combinations that would save you some time and headache sifting through forums. Just give em a ring and tell em what you're trying to accomplish with your budget, they've always been super helpful for me.

Thanks for the tip.

I checked and the rolled TRD is a 98' too. It is a Pre-runner, which is just a non 4x4 Tacoma. But the rims should work fine for me,offsets and all. Rattlecan flat black and bingo.

Hard to believe it, but all the ball joints are good, not cracked or leaking. Take grease. I can not find any play.
Same with drive seals. No leaks or cracks.
I have never babied this truck either. It has skidded the plates...LOL

 

[brocksw]

Thanks for the tip.

I checked and the rolled TRD is a 98' too. It is a Pre-runner, which is just a non 4x4 Tacoma. But the rims should work fine for me,offsets and all. Rattlecan flat black and bingo.

Hard to believe it, but all the ball joints are good, not cracked or leaking. Take grease. I can not find any play.
Same with drive seals. No leaks or cracks.
I have never babied this truck either. It has skidded the plates...LOL

I think once those parts got put on those older model Toyotas, they just decided they were going to last forever. My lower ball joints on my tundra bled a little grease after I lifted it. Been waiting for them to go out or show signs of wear, but they just don’t. On the other hand, the upper ball joints in my aftermarket control arms needed replacement after a measly 50k and I fed them grease every oil change. For purposes of this comparison, they’re virtually the same part, just a standard ball joint with a boot. How can the Toyota one last so much longer?

1 more recommendation, I think getting aluminum body shocks is the route to go if you experience real winters. They hold up to corrosion better. I spray mine with fluid film or boeshield T9 just to help out, but my shocks look pretty good after 75k with ND winters.

 

[hank4elk]

Just talked to a SF Toyotec guy. Just works on Toyotas.
Get the rear springs done at McBrides and take it to him. He will level with 5100's and check all parts for wear and align.
He said the wheels I found will work fine.

 

[hank4elk]

Dove into a couple forums.
Wheels will work fine and I will replace all the ball joints and suspension parts. Too many pics of broken front axles from sheared balls,that seemed fine.

I saw 2 boats launch themselves when the ball on a hitch sheared off. Boats full of people. Hench our no one in the boat besides pilot when launching rule.