Some Questions Before I Start Reloading

[BuzzH]

Thank you, Captain Obvious.

I bought a couple 2 packs of it a while back that came with a loading block in each of the 2 packs...I'm good for a while.

I don't think it spoils.

 

[VikingsGuy]

For hunting loads don't be afraid to buy Lee Dies....I don't like most of their gear but I have had a lot of luck with their dies. My 6.5 does .3 MOA with a set of Lee dies. I also have had a lot of success with Hornady and RCBS dies and have never spent a lot of money on "precision dies" though I see a benefit when it comes to precision shooting.

I've used just about every case lube out there. I still have some Hornady sizing paste/wax and that stuff seems to last forever. I did Hornady One shot and really liked it (as mentioned it's either love or hate). I went down the rabbit hole and make my own with Lanolin and pure Alcohol. I have to substitute pure rubbing alcohol for Original Heat (no additives) which is extensive ethanol.

I too use a number of Lee dies for sub-0.80 MOA rounds, but you definitely want to check that the bullets are not just a little loose when you get a new die, try new brass or change bullet. Lee's quality control on the expander diameter seems to leave something to be desired. Their customer service acknowledged this is a problem with some bullets and some dies. They suggested I use emory cloth as slowly "mill down" the expander - nope - just bought a redding standard FL die as replacement. When Lee work they are great, when not it can be frustrating, as the bullets are seated firm enough to use and if you don't try to move the bullet you may not notice.

 

[std7mag]

I see some good advise as always. I'll try to make mine the same.

First off, welcome to the forum, Qubo & Blauks!

Ok, we are dealing with hunting loads for a 300 WM, using Nosler E-Tips.

First thought is money does not buy accuracy. It can help with precision, but accuracy starts behind the trigger.
Meaning you don't NEED expensive gear, especially to start out.
KISS- Keep It Simple Stupid!!
Your not shooting National 1,000 yard Benchrest.

Your press choice is fine. But to accomplish your goals, every manufacturer out there has suitable presses.
Ditto the dies.
The oppinion on best press, die, tool, lube, and everything else involved in reloading is just that, oppinions.

Get several reloading manuals!
Read them, especially the sections before the actual reloading data! They all have a wealth of information dealing with the reloading proceedures!

Load for accuracy, not velocity! Your testing(shooting) will tell you what your gun likes.

With the larger magnums, watch your case fill amount for powder. Below 85% case fill, you can get some dangerous pressure spikes.

Your monolithic bullets, in this case the E-Tips, like a jump to the lands. Nosler recommends 0.050" off the lands.

With the 300 Win Mag, and mono bullets you may find a crimp to help.

Don't get distracted at the reloading bench!
Only 1 powder on your bench at a time!
The powder labels can sometimes look the same at a quick glance. Filling you magnum with a pistol powder will quickly ruin your day!
It has happened!

As always, think/stay safe!
And the only stupid question is the one not asked.

 

[Brian in Montana]

I think I intended to mention before - my press is a Lee Challenger, but I use Hornady Custom Grade dies in it. I've always had good luck with Hornady products. I found out they would thread into a Lee with no problem, so I went with those when it was time to buy my first die set. I load for 4 rifles now and have just stayed with them. Planning to purchase some for .280 Rem soon as well.

 

[Addicting]

I have Lee, Hornady, RCBS, and Redding dies on the bench.

The Lee Crimper is nice once the lock nut is changed out. The rest of the Lee set doesn’t get used.

The Hornady dies are solid performers and have the best lock rings. I purchased some extra and switched all the does on the bench to those lock rings.

RCBS are solid performers as well, the only thing I don’t like is the fine adjustments on the standard dies. A screwdriver and wrench are not the easiest way to adjust seating depth. Once set they are fine.

Redding type s is at the top of the performance pile. Especially with the Hornady lock rings. Don’t be scared of the bushings they are a great tool to adjust your neck tension.

The dies with the micrometer on top are awesome. Once you use them you will wonder why you waited so long. Expensive but with the investment.

Purchasing a Sinclair expander die is worth the 30-40 bucks. It allows you to set you neck tension to a specific amount. Plus you can feel the “hard necks” when you expand them Verses when you load a bullet. Culling those brass to be annealed will help keep your SD and ES low. That makes your groups tighter in those longer shots.

Do you need any of this? Not really for a MOA out to 400. Pretty much any dies will do it. Hornady is probably your best choice for the money.

Will you eventually end up chasing small groups and experiment with all these. My magic 8 ball says: Signs point to yes.

 

[Blauks]

Another big Fan of Hornady One shot for lubing cases! Much easier and cleaner to use than the RCBS lube and roller pad. I stagger my loading block full of cases and go spray them out on the deck and then wait 5-10 mins then start re-sizing. It has eliminated the overlubing and denting shoulder cases that can occur with the lube pad, also cleans up much better!

 

[Qubo]

Sorry, I've been busy with the honey do list and haven't checked back in a while. Some great info here. I want to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I am planning on using E-tips cause I want non lead and I've had success in other guns with them. But if they don't work with my gun I definitely will try a different copper like Barnes or something. I picked me up a Rock Chucker last week, but haven't bought anything else. Thinking about getting a Frankford Arsenal Platimum scale because they are on sale on Amazon and seem to get good reviews. Unless there is a reason not to? That Hornady scale is also on my short list too. Also I had originally planned on getting the case lube pad, but now questioning that. Is the pad not a good idea?

 

[rtraverdavis]

Sorry, I've been busy with the honey do list and haven't checked back in a while. Some great info here. I want to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I am planning on using E-tips cause I want non lead and I've had success in other guns with them. But if they don't work with my gun I definitely will try a different copper like Barnes or something. I picked me up a Rock Chucker last week, but haven't bought anything else. Thinking about getting a Frankford Arsenal Platimum scale because they are on sale on Amazon and seem to get good reviews. Unless there is a reason not to? That Hornady scale is also on my short list too. Also I had originally planned on getting the case lube pad, but now questioning that. Is the pad not a good idea?

The pad has worked fine from me, but I don’t do any giant batch loading.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Sorry, I've been busy with the honey do list and haven't checked back in a while. Some great info here. I want to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I am planning on using E-tips cause I want non lead and I've had success in other guns with them. But if they don't work with my gun I definitely will try a different copper like Barnes or something. I picked me up a Rock Chucker last week, but haven't bought anything else. Thinking about getting a Frankford Arsenal Platimum scale because they are on sale on Amazon and seem to get good reviews. Unless there is a reason not to? That Hornady scale is also on my short list too. Also I had originally planned on getting the case lube pad, but now questioning that. Is the pad not a good idea?

If you are going to do a lot of reloading and have it in the budget, the RCBS chargemaster lite is wonderful.

 

[Qubo]

A Chargemaster Lite would be nice. I could maybe budget that if it means I don't need to buy a measure, stand, trickler, and scale. But I assume I need to have those as a backup? Also sort of feel like I should get them as a "learn the basics" type thing first.

 

[VikingsGuy]

A Chargemaster Lite would be nice. I could maybe budget that if it means I don't need to buy a measure, stand, trickler, and scale. But I assume I need to have those as a backup? Also sort of feel like I should get them as a "learn the basics" type thing first.

No need for measurer, stand or trickler. The scale is up to you. I did buy a balance scale to "confirm" when I was starting, but the chargemaster was always spot on so I stopped messing with it. I did buy a little box of precision weights (0.5grain up to 100 grain over 1 increments) from Lyman that I use now to confirm every once in a while - way easier and quicker.

 

[OhHeyThereBen]

Hi. First Post but been lurking here for a while. I am looking to get started in reloading. I have literally no experience with it but wanting to get into it for a few years cause it seems fun and more accuracy would be nice. I have no supplies but going to be buying soon cause this quarantine seems like a good time to start. Lol. I've been doing lots of internet research and my reloading manual should be here tomorrow. I just had some questions before I start.

To start I will be exclusively loading 300wm for a factory Browning X-bolt Hell's Canyon, but plan to add a smaller caliber factory rifle down the road. I don't plan to ever have a custom rifle. I also only use my rifle for hunting, mostly elk and deer and eventually bear, but no competition shooting nor do I ever plan to do that. I do try to shoot a lot in the off season but just for hunting practice. My max range is 400-450 yards but only in the right conditions. I prefer to keep it around 300. Since I only shoot to hunt I would be more than happy with 1 MOA accuracy. I plan on using 180gr Nosler E-tips as I occasionally hunt in a copper only area and prefer copper even when not required.

1. How deep into this should I go for just a hunting load? I plan to follow Nosler's powder recommendation and working a load up trying different powder weights and seating depths. I'll get a case trimmer too. But do i need to get the tools and measure for my maximum length and "off the lands" and such or is just the recommended specs good enough? I am planning on getting the tools to measure shoulder bump unless that isn't necessary? And any steps I should or shouldn't do or things I should or shouldn't get for my accuracy wants?

2. I'm planning on buying items separately instead of a kit cause it seems to be the consensus that is better. I'm planning on getting a Rock Chucker Supreme unless there is a better recommendation in that price range?

3. I'm pretty set on full length sizing and I'm leaning towards a set of Forster Bench Rest FL dies. I don't want to mess with bushings. But being pricier ($93) are the Forster's worth it for the beginner? If they are, is the micrometer on the seating die worth the extra $40 on top of that? Would I be better off with just a set of RCBS or similar priced dies?

4. I'm planning on throwing powder under the weight and trickling up to it. Do I need a high end powder measure or is a cheaper one ok? And any recommendation for an affordable digital scale? That's the only item I'm struggling to pick out.

Thanks for everything and I'm sure I'll have more questions

Looks like everyone did a great job of answering your questions! Welcome to the forum and I look forward to seeing your posts!

I started reloading about two years ago and went through about the same thing at the same time as VikingsGuy. He and I went different directions and he ended up with wayyyy fancier stuff than I did. Here's my thread of a review on the Lee kit that I bought:

Lee Breach Lock Challenger Kit Review

I figured that by now I've spent enough hours behind this press and everything that comes with the kit to write a bit of a review for anyone looking at getting into reloading. I know that this winter there will probably be quite a few people asking questions (just as I did) about different...

www.hunttalk.com

I personally haven't used any throat measuring tools and have found entirely acceptable accuracy for everything I've loaded for. What I've found is that if I have a bullet that I can't get to shoot just by tweaking the powder charges, I'll just switch to a different bullet that shoots better. However, if you're really stuck on the Nosler E-Tips and you have a bit of extra money, then buy whatever you want. You can see by what I have that I went the inexpensive route which works great, but can be better.

Best of luck to you!

 

[Qubo]

Another question. I don't currently have any brass to start reloading. I was going to just get some Nosler ammo and shoot through it to practice my form then have 40-60 cases. But with this pandemic seems like I can't get my hands on any Nosler ammo. I can get my hands on Nosler brass and I can get my hands on other ammo, both Federal and Winchester. Nosler brass comes prepped but I don't want to have to load and shoot through all the Nosler brass before load development. So am I better off with the more premium Nosler brass not being fire formed for development, or using the cheaper brass but having once fired it? Or is it really better to put in the time with fresh brass and fire form all of it before making a load?

 

[D_Walt]

A Chargemaster Lite would be nice. I could maybe budget that if it means I don't need to buy a measure, stand, trickler, and scale. But I assume I need to have those as a backup? Also sort of feel like I should get them as a "learn the basics" type thing first.

I’ll second the chargemaster lite if you can squeeze it in the budget. Extremely easy to use and makes loading to the 1/10 grain a “no-brainer”. I love mine and turn out some really good ammo with it.

 

[Don Fischer]

Just wondering. If you were just learning to drive, would you go out and buy a Cadillac to learn in or an old Ford? All spending money on tools really does is teach you you don't have to learn all that much, just buy the tool. Of course some day the tool finally malfunction's and you find you don't understand what the tool does and need help to find out what you should have learned in the beginning!

 

[Brian in Montana]

Another question. I don't currently have any brass to start reloading. I was going to just get some Nosler ammo and shoot through it to practice my form then have 40-60 cases. But with this pandemic seems like I can't get my hands on any Nosler ammo. I can get my hands on Nosler brass and I can get my hands on other ammo, both Federal and Winchester. Nosler brass comes prepped but I don't want to have to load and shoot through all the Nosler brass before load development. So am I better off with the more premium Nosler brass not being fire formed for development, or using the cheaper brass but having once fired it? Or is it really better to put in the time with fresh brass and fire form all of it before making a load?

I've had very good luck with Winchester brass. Ive read that it tends to be hard, so you can probably get a few more loads out of it than others. QC is not exactly super-high, IMO, but with running them all through a resizer die, and trimming them the same length, chamfer and de-burr, they turn out well. I go an extra step and use a flash hole uniformer as a last step in case prep, but you only need to do that once, and most folks I know don't even do it. I like Win brass, but one irritating thing I've run into is in every package there are a handful shorter than the "trim to length" specified by SAAMI. I generally separate those and use them for fouling shots.

And, I think you should just get new brass rather than burning factory ammo for that purpose.

 

[Vanishe187]

Reloading can be lots of fun. I stick with publushed data and dont venture past that info much. I reload to have a variety of bullets available when i want them. I hate going to the store and not find what i want. I feel the bullet size is the biggest factor for reloading in my opinion. I reload rounds not usually found in stores, i love 125grn bullets for my 308 cant ever find factort loaded stuff this grain. Mkney savings, yeah over time and depending on how much you shoot it most certainly will save you money. I shoot lots of bullets amd i would most certainly not be able to afford all the ammo i shoot if it was all factory ammo. To me reloading is also a relaxing escape. Good luck it is a fun thing to try but take your time and ask lots of questions.

 

[TheDudeAbides]

Hi. First Post but been lurking here for a while. I am looking to get started in reloading. I have literally no experience with it but wanting to get into it for a few years cause it seems fun and more accuracy would be nice. I have no supplies but going to be buying soon cause this quarantine seems like a good time to start. Lol. I've been doing lots of internet research and my reloading manual should be here tomorrow. I just had some questions before I start.

To start I will be exclusively loading 300wm for a factory Browning X-bolt Hell's Canyon, but plan to add a smaller caliber factory rifle down the road. I don't plan to ever have a custom rifle. I also only use my rifle for hunting, mostly elk and deer and eventually bear, but no competition shooting nor do I ever plan to do that. I do try to shoot a lot in the off season but just for hunting practice. My max range is 400-450 yards but only in the right conditions. I prefer to keep it around 300. Since I only shoot to hunt I would be more than happy with 1 MOA accuracy. I plan on using 180gr Nosler E-tips as I occasionally hunt in a copper only area and prefer copper even when not required.

1. How deep into this should I go for just a hunting load? I plan to follow Nosler's powder recommendation and working a load up trying different powder weights and seating depths. I'll get a case trimmer too. But do i need to get the tools and measure for my maximum length and "off the lands" and such or is just the recommended specs good enough? I am planning on getting the tools to measure shoulder bump unless that isn't necessary? And any steps I should or shouldn't do or things I should or shouldn't get for my accuracy wants?

2. I'm planning on buying items separately instead of a kit cause it seems to be the consensus that is better. I'm planning on getting a Rock Chucker Supreme unless there is a better recommendation in that price range?

3. I'm pretty set on full length sizing and I'm leaning towards a set of Forster Bench Rest FL dies. I don't want to mess with bushings. But being pricier ($93) are the Forster's worth it for the beginner? If they are, is the micrometer on the seating die worth the extra $40 on top of that? Would I be better off with just a set of RCBS or similar priced dies?

4. I'm planning on throwing powder under the weight and trickling up to it. Do I need a high end powder measure or is a cheaper one ok? And any recommendation for an affordable digital scale? That's the only item I'm struggling to pick out.

Thanks for everything and I'm sure I'll have more questions

I am relatively new to the game, so let me share some of my thoughts.

1) I was once naive to think that I would only reload for hunting loads and here I am 1,000+ rounds later.

1) The Ladder test where you go up by .5 until max is the way to go, but you would have to get a chrono. I figured the chrono was cheaper than shooting a ton of three shot groups.

1) Ogive gauge will help with seating depths. Just take 0.02 off the lans and you should be good with most bullets. At least this was the case with the bullets I have tried.

2) Rock Chuker for loading rifles is a great investment.

2) If you have a printer, then you don't need a reloading manual. I can find plenty of load data for free online.

3) Someone else can answer this

4) With powders. I hate with a passion flake powders in a powder throw, I'm looking at you Superformance. Never have tried the ball powders, So no info there. I prefer RL 17 as a metering powder for 300 WSM and H1000 for 300 Win.

4) I use the RCBS powder throw and get good results (other than that dirty dirty jerk Superformance) I measure every fifth and most of the time it is never off.

 

[VikingsGuy]

1) Ogive gauge will help with seating depths. Just take 0.02 off the lans and you should be good with most bullets. At least this was the case with the bullets I have tried.

Two things for the new loader - First, mono bullets such as GMX, e-Tips and Barnes need more jump. Barnes recommends 0.050" off the lands and that is usually pretty close in my experience. Some say being too close to the lands with a mono bullet can lead to pressure spikes. Second, if you are shooting out of a rifle with a drop-box magazine, make sure you check the mag length before you set your target seating depth. It is often significantly shorter than the lands.

 

[Qubo]

Hey guys. Things have been going good. I got all my gear, loaded up my first set of rounds and did my first batch of testing. I don't have a chrono so did a .5 grain ladder test of three shot groups round robin style. Maybe excessive but for my first time I'd rather spend the money to be more sure. I believe I've picked my powder charge. Next is seating depth. Nosler says .050-.100 of the lands for Etips. I did initial testing at .050 and now going to work back to .100 with 3 shot groups. What increments should I do this in though? And should I shoot all three at one depth or shoot one of each depth first?