BuzzH
Well-known member
Thank you, Captain Obvious.
I bought a couple 2 packs of it a while back that came with a loading block in each of the 2 packs...I'm good for a while.
I don't think it spoils.
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Thank you, Captain Obvious.
I too use a number of Lee dies for sub-0.80 MOA rounds, but you definitely want to check that the bullets are not just a little loose when you get a new die, try new brass or change bullet. Lee's quality control on the expander diameter seems to leave something to be desired. Their customer service acknowledged this is a problem with some bullets and some dies. They suggested I use emory cloth as slowly "mill down" the expander - nope - just bought a redding standard FL die as replacement. When Lee work they are great, when not it can be frustrating, as the bullets are seated firm enough to use and if you don't try to move the bullet you may not notice.For hunting loads don't be afraid to buy Lee Dies....I don't like most of their gear but I have had a lot of luck with their dies. My 6.5 does .3 MOA with a set of Lee dies. I also have had a lot of success with Hornady and RCBS dies and have never spent a lot of money on "precision dies" though I see a benefit when it comes to precision shooting.
I've used just about every case lube out there. I still have some Hornady sizing paste/wax and that stuff seems to last forever. I did Hornady One shot and really liked it (as mentioned it's either love or hate). I went down the rabbit hole and make my own with Lanolin and pure Alcohol. I have to substitute pure rubbing alcohol for Original Heat (no additives) which is extensive ethanol.
The pad has worked fine from me, but I donāt do any giant batch loading.Sorry, I've been busy with the honey do list and haven't checked back in a while. Some great info here. I want to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I am planning on using E-tips cause I want non lead and I've had success in other guns with them. But if they don't work with my gun I definitely will try a different copper like Barnes or something. I picked me up a Rock Chucker last week, but haven't bought anything else. Thinking about getting a Frankford Arsenal Platimum scale because they are on sale on Amazon and seem to get good reviews. Unless there is a reason not to? That Hornady scale is also on my short list too. Also I had originally planned on getting the case lube pad, but now questioning that. Is the pad not a good idea?
If you are going to do a lot of reloading and have it in the budget, the RCBS chargemaster lite is wonderful.Sorry, I've been busy with the honey do list and haven't checked back in a while. Some great info here. I want to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I am planning on using E-tips cause I want non lead and I've had success in other guns with them. But if they don't work with my gun I definitely will try a different copper like Barnes or something. I picked me up a Rock Chucker last week, but haven't bought anything else. Thinking about getting a Frankford Arsenal Platimum scale because they are on sale on Amazon and seem to get good reviews. Unless there is a reason not to? That Hornady scale is also on my short list too. Also I had originally planned on getting the case lube pad, but now questioning that. Is the pad not a good idea?
No need for measurer, stand or trickler. The scale is up to you. I did buy a balance scale to "confirm" when I was starting, but the chargemaster was always spot on so I stopped messing with it. I did buy a little box of precision weights (0.5grain up to 100 grain over 1 increments) from Lyman that I use now to confirm every once in a while - way easier and quicker.A Chargemaster Lite would be nice. I could maybe budget that if it means I don't need to buy a measure, stand, trickler, and scale. But I assume I need to have those as a backup? Also sort of feel like I should get them as a "learn the basics" type thing first.
Hi. First Post but been lurking here for a while. I am looking to get started in reloading. I have literally no experience with it but wanting to get into it for a few years cause it seems fun and more accuracy would be nice. I have no supplies but going to be buying soon cause this quarantine seems like a good time to start. Lol. I've been doing lots of internet research and my reloading manual should be here tomorrow. I just had some questions before I start.
To start I will be exclusively loading 300wm for a factory Browning X-bolt Hell's Canyon, but plan to add a smaller caliber factory rifle down the road. I don't plan to ever have a custom rifle. I also only use my rifle for hunting, mostly elk and deer and eventually bear, but no competition shooting nor do I ever plan to do that. I do try to shoot a lot in the off season but just for hunting practice. My max range is 400-450 yards but only in the right conditions. I prefer to keep it around 300. Since I only shoot to hunt I would be more than happy with 1 MOA accuracy. I plan on using 180gr Nosler E-tips as I occasionally hunt in a copper only area and prefer copper even when not required.
1. How deep into this should I go for just a hunting load? I plan to follow Nosler's powder recommendation and working a load up trying different powder weights and seating depths. I'll get a case trimmer too. But do i need to get the tools and measure for my maximum length and "off the lands" and such or is just the recommended specs good enough? I am planning on getting the tools to measure shoulder bump unless that isn't necessary? And any steps I should or shouldn't do or things I should or shouldn't get for my accuracy wants?
2. I'm planning on buying items separately instead of a kit cause it seems to be the consensus that is better. I'm planning on getting a Rock Chucker Supreme unless there is a better recommendation in that price range?
3. I'm pretty set on full length sizing and I'm leaning towards a set of Forster Bench Rest FL dies. I don't want to mess with bushings. But being pricier ($93) are the Forster's worth it for the beginner? If they are, is the micrometer on the seating die worth the extra $40 on top of that? Would I be better off with just a set of RCBS or similar priced dies?
4. I'm planning on throwing powder under the weight and trickling up to it. Do I need a high end powder measure or is a cheaper one ok? And any recommendation for an affordable digital scale? That's the only item I'm struggling to pick out.
Thanks for everything and I'm sure I'll have more questions
Iāll second the chargemaster lite if you can squeeze it in the budget. Extremely easy to use and makes loading to the 1/10 grain a āno-brainerā. I love mine and turn out some really good ammo with it.A Chargemaster Lite would be nice. I could maybe budget that if it means I don't need to buy a measure, stand, trickler, and scale. But I assume I need to have those as a backup? Also sort of feel like I should get them as a "learn the basics" type thing first.
I've had very good luck with Winchester brass. Ive read that it tends to be hard, so you can probably get a few more loads out of it than others. QC is not exactly super-high, IMO, but with running them all through a resizer die, and trimming them the same length, chamfer and de-burr, they turn out well. I go an extra step and use a flash hole uniformer as a last step in case prep, but you only need to do that once, and most folks I know don't even do it. I like Win brass, but one irritating thing I've run into is in every package there are a handful shorter than the "trim to length" specified by SAAMI. I generally separate those and use them for fouling shots.Another question. I don't currently have any brass to start reloading. I was going to just get some Nosler ammo and shoot through it to practice my form then have 40-60 cases. But with this pandemic seems like I can't get my hands on any Nosler ammo. I can get my hands on Nosler brass and I can get my hands on other ammo, both Federal and Winchester. Nosler brass comes prepped but I don't want to have to load and shoot through all the Nosler brass before load development. So am I better off with the more premium Nosler brass not being fire formed for development, or using the cheaper brass but having once fired it? Or is it really better to put in the time with fresh brass and fire form all of it before making a load?
Hi. First Post but been lurking here for a while. I am looking to get started in reloading. I have literally no experience with it but wanting to get into it for a few years cause it seems fun and more accuracy would be nice. I have no supplies but going to be buying soon cause this quarantine seems like a good time to start. Lol. I've been doing lots of internet research and my reloading manual should be here tomorrow. I just had some questions before I start.
To start I will be exclusively loading 300wm for a factory Browning X-bolt Hell's Canyon, but plan to add a smaller caliber factory rifle down the road. I don't plan to ever have a custom rifle. I also only use my rifle for hunting, mostly elk and deer and eventually bear, but no competition shooting nor do I ever plan to do that. I do try to shoot a lot in the off season but just for hunting practice. My max range is 400-450 yards but only in the right conditions. I prefer to keep it around 300. Since I only shoot to hunt I would be more than happy with 1 MOA accuracy. I plan on using 180gr Nosler E-tips as I occasionally hunt in a copper only area and prefer copper even when not required.
1. How deep into this should I go for just a hunting load? I plan to follow Nosler's powder recommendation and working a load up trying different powder weights and seating depths. I'll get a case trimmer too. But do i need to get the tools and measure for my maximum length and "off the lands" and such or is just the recommended specs good enough? I am planning on getting the tools to measure shoulder bump unless that isn't necessary? And any steps I should or shouldn't do or things I should or shouldn't get for my accuracy wants?
2. I'm planning on buying items separately instead of a kit cause it seems to be the consensus that is better. I'm planning on getting a Rock Chucker Supreme unless there is a better recommendation in that price range?
3. I'm pretty set on full length sizing and I'm leaning towards a set of Forster Bench Rest FL dies. I don't want to mess with bushings. But being pricier ($93) are the Forster's worth it for the beginner? If they are, is the micrometer on the seating die worth the extra $40 on top of that? Would I be better off with just a set of RCBS or similar priced dies?
4. I'm planning on throwing powder under the weight and trickling up to it. Do I need a high end powder measure or is a cheaper one ok? And any recommendation for an affordable digital scale? That's the only item I'm struggling to pick out.
Thanks for everything and I'm sure I'll have more questions
1) Ogive gauge will help with seating depths. Just take 0.02 off the lans and you should be good with most bullets. At least this was the case with the bullets I have tried.