Rule of thumb for 20ga 2 3/4” shot size

[N2TRKYS]

1 5/8 oz of TSS #9s with a Remington Super Full choke will produce 250-300 pellets in a 10” circle at 40 yards. A tighter choke like an IC .555 might get you a hotter core.

I use TSS #7.5s and get 175 pellets in a 10” circle at 40 yards.

 

[OntarioHunter]

One common misconception is smaller gauge shotgun with the same choke as larger gauge shotgun produces a smaller diameter pattern. Wrong. A full choke .410 throws the same diameter pattern as a full choke ten gauge. Just a helluva lot fewer pellets floating around in that pattern. This was a misconception I cleared up with our club's best sporting clays shooter. For the sake of challenging himself (and not making the rest of us look so bad) he commonly shoots .410 and 28 gauge. A couple of the stations have some 40-55 yrd shots. He shot them very poorly because he shot everything with IC choke. I always changed my A5 to at least modified. He kinda smirked at it and I told him he was nuts trying to hit those targets with that gun and choke at that distance. Many clays were clearly flying through his pattern. "Oh, no. It's all on me because 28 gauge just has a smaller diameter IC pattern." Nope! Same diameter as my 12 gauge IC. I told him to switch to full choke on those two stations the next week and I'd prove it. Then he shot better than fifty percent. As I said, he is a very good shot. I'm not bad but I won't attempt full on those stations even with twelve gauge - diameter is too tight and I can't see well enough to be that precise. I usually shoot skeet on most stations but it's a waste of ammo on those two. Targets get through the pattern or not hit hard enough to break. I was bellyaching about too many station changes adding distance to the shots. Not a lot of fun for us old guys with fading eyesight. "Yeah, maybe. But I bet you shoot at geese and pheasants out there 40 yards." Pfft! How does a fifteen pound honker with a five foot wingspan compare to an itty bitty clay target flying on edge? Har, har!

 

[YoungGun]

I use #5 for pheasant and #6 for grouse. Sometimes late season I will go up to #4 high brass for pheasant. They seem to get tougher and the shots a little further near the end of season.

This all assumes lead. If steel you have to go up 2 sizes.

Growing up, I shot my Grandpa's 20 Gauge Browning A5 for all things upland. Still one of my favorite shotguns. There's no replaceable choke, so keep in mind my recommendations are for full choke only.

For flighty late season Iowa Roosters I went with high brass 4's and 5's to reach out and "touch them". Never had any issues with destroying meat. I would lean toward 4 shot in South Dakota, especially on windy days as those birds get to 50-70 yards a lot quicker.

For Montana grouse, mainly Blues but the occasional ruffy, I shoot 7.5's. They're quite a bit more fragile than Pheasants. For Huns and Chukars I've used 7.5's as well.

My first deer, a healthy White-tail doe, was dropped in her tracks at 80 yards with a 3/4oz saboted slug.

For trap shooting, 9's all day.

As for steel, turkeys, or any "magnum load", I used my Mossberg 12gauge as I didn't want to some how ruin the Belgium Browning that had gone through my Grandpa's hands, to my father, and now to me.

 

[VikingsGuy]

For flighty late season Iowa Roosters I went with high brass 4's and 5's to reach out and "touch them". Never had any issues with destroying meat.

Never lose meat if they are all head shots

 

[BucksnDucks]

I like 3" #3 for ducks, works good for occasional speck that decoys. I'm not a fan of 20 ga for geese in general unless they're coming in close like 25 yards. #5s for pheasant. I have to use steel for chukar and like #5 and #6.

 

[feedback]

As Mthunter implied, the 870 Express shotguns made today are not the same quality as the ones made 25 years ago. I am presuming this fella has just bought a brand new one.

Yes mine was just bought.

 

[Dougfirtree]

Some interesting answers here. I use #6's (lead) for pheasants/rabbits (or #4 steel). I use 7.5's for grouse and woodcock (lead). Lead #5's for turkeys, though I think there's a good argument for 6's instead.

For waterfowl, I use steel 2's for big ducks and 4's for smaller ones. I use BB's, or BBB's for geese.

And I continue to think alot about switching everything to non-toxic. Hard to find steel 6's for grouse and I hate the cost of the non-toxic turkey loads, but I imagine I'll make the switch fairly soon. All the rifles in my family are shooting copper now.

 

[feedback]

Some interesting answers here. I use #6's (lead) for pheasants/rabbits (or #4 steel). I use 7.5's for grouse and woodcock (lead). Lead #5's for turkeys, though I think there's a good argument for 6's instead.

For waterfowl, I use steel 2's for big ducks and 4's for smaller ones. I use BB's, or BBB's for geese.

And I continue to think alot about switching everything to non-toxic. Hard to find steel 6's for grouse and I hate the cost of the non-toxic turkey loads, but I imagine I'll make the switch fairly soon. All the rifles in my family are shooting copper now.

I just bought myself a 20ga Remington 870 with a bird barrel and a rifled barrel. What’s the easiest way to get used to what shot sizes to use for hunting things from birds to Turkeys and everything in between? I do know to use sabot slugs in the rifled barrel. Thanks for your feedback and God Bless.

I like to thank everyone for the feedback that I’ve received. It has helped me out a lot and now I’ve got to make sure I’ve always got money on me, so if and when I find some of these shells buy them and as many as I can afford. Once again thanks for the great input from everyone.