Rifled slug gun recommendation for MA?

Living in CA, there are lots of restricted weapons areas, AND, we are lead free, so I am limited on slug options.

I have found slug guns to be super picky on the ammo, and thus have spent hundreds of dollars on different slugs to find ones that my guns like. Eventually, I ended up with an 870 and a savage 220.

I built up the 12ga 870 with the Rem cantilevered barrel. It came with a low end scope. Cantilever was way too short and so eye relief was off. I had to do some gunsmithing to make a new cantilever out of picatinny stock. Now its good, but not happy that Rem designed it that way. I also added a cheek pad to compensate for the scope being high above the receiver. This one likes Winchester XP3s. Groups 3" @100. Have even done 6"@200. Good gun, but you still end up with a shotgun trigger instead of a rifle trigger. I only use it if I am taking a bird barrel with me in the field to do combination pig/bird hunting. I do like the pump form factor though... pretty fast follow up shots.

Other gun is a Savage 220. This has become my primary. This one groups <2"@100 using Remington Expanders with Barnes copper. Now that Vista/Federal own Rem ammo, not sure if they will discontinue that slug.

I know someone with an Ithica Deerslayer in 12ga, and that one groups about 3"@100. Very well built gun. He likes the XP3 slugs.

Between 12ga and 20, I like 20 better. Loads of stopping power and better ballistics. Also saves a little weight off the gun.

As for optics, I really like the Burris Droptine 2-7 due to having very good low light performance (brighter through the scope than naked eye) and use it on both my guns. I usually have it set to 2 when in the field.
I know someone with a Nikon slug scope (slughunter?). I dont like that one... small field a view for the same mag.

In summary, it has taken a fair amount of time and money to get set up with slug guns, but now that I have done it, I love them for pig hunting which are normally <100 yard shots.

If I was to do it all again, I would go with the Savave220, or a Benelli M2.
Either open sights or low power scope (like the Burris 2-7)
 

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Living in CA, there are lots of restricted weapons areas, AND, we are lead free, so I am limited on slug options.

I have found slug guns to be super picky on the ammo, and thus have spent hundreds of dollars on different slugs to find ones that my guns like. Eventually, I ended up with an 870 and a savage 220.

I built up the 12ga 870 with the Rem cantilevered barrel. It came with a low end scope. Cantilever was way too short and so eye relief was off. I had to do some gunsmithing to make a new cantilever out of picatinny stock. Now its good, but not happy that Rem designed it that way. This one likes Winchester XP3s. Groups 3" @100. Have even done 6"@200. Good gun, but you still end up with a shotgun trigger instead of a rifle trigger. I only use it if I am taking a bird barrel with me in the field to do combination pig/bird hunting. I do like the pump form factor though... pretty fast follow up shots.

Other gun is a Savage 220. This has become my primary. This one groups <2"@100 using Remington Expanders with Barnes copper. Now that Vista/Federal own Rem ammo, not sure if they will discontinue that slug.

I know someone with an Ithica Deerslayer in 12ga, and that one groups about 3"@100. Very well built gun. He likes the XP3 slugs.

Between 12ga and 20, I like 20 better. Loads of stopping power and better ballistics. Also saves a little weight off the gun.

As for optics, I really like the Burris Droptine 2-7 due to having very good low light performance and use it on both my guns. I usually have it set to 2 when in the field.
I know someone with a Nikon slug scope (slughunter?). I dont like that one... small field a view for the same mag.

In summary, it has taken a fair amount of time and money to get set up with slug guns, but now that I have done it, I love them for pig hunting which are normally <100 yard shots.

If I was to do it all again, I would go with the Savave220, or a Benelli M2.
Either open sights or low power scope (like the Burris 2-7)
Good looking 870!
 
Living in CA, there are lots of restricted weapons areas, AND, we are lead free, so I am limited on slug options.

I have found slug guns to be super picky on the ammo, and thus have spent hundreds of dollars on different slugs to find ones that my guns like. Eventually, I ended up with an 870 and a savage 220.

I built up the 12ga 870 with the Rem cantilevered barrel. It came with a low end scope. Cantilever was way too short and so eye relief was off. I had to do some gunsmithing to make a new cantilever out of picatinny stock. Now its good, but not happy that Rem designed it that way. This one likes Winchester XP3s. Groups 3" @100. Have even done 6"@200. Good gun, but you still end up with a shotgun trigger instead of a rifle trigger. I only use it if I am taking a bird barrel with me in the field to do combination pig/bird hunting. I do like the pump form factor though... pretty fast follow up shots.

Other gun is a Savage 220. This has become my primary. This one groups <2"@100 using Remington Expanders with Barnes copper. Now that Vista/Federal own Rem ammo, not sure if they will discontinue that slug.

I know someone with an Ithica Deerslayer in 12ga, and that one groups about 3"@100. Very well built gun. He likes the XP3 slugs.

Between 12ga and 20, I like 20 better. Loads of stopping power and better ballistics. Also saves a little weight off the gun.

As for optics, I really like the Burris Droptine 2-7 due to having very good low light performance and use it on both my guns. I usually have it set to 2 when in the field.
I know someone with a Nikon slug scope (slughunter?). I dont like that one... small field a view for the same mag.

In summary, it has taken a fair amount of time and money to get set up with slug guns, but now that I have done it, I love them for pig hunting which are normally <100 yard shots.

If I was to do it all again, I would go with the Savave220, or a Benelli M2.
Either open sights or low power scope (like the Burris 2-7)
All excellent points , I have found the same conclusions in my search with slug guns and slugs. My shotguns have been very sensitive to the slugs they like. I know no other way to go but to spend a lot of money on various brands shoot and take care of the sore shoulder. Lol
 
If you're not going to hunt muzzy season buy a shot gun. If you're not going to be hunting in deer drives buy the savage. If you're going to get a pump or auto loader and think you'll ever use it for birds, especially waterfowl, buy a 12 ga. If it's going to be a dedicated slug gun I'd go 20ga. If you want a scope get a cantilevered barrel.

Only really good reason to get a muzzy is to hunt muzzy season. Unless you're going to really get into it a shotgun is just a better choice.

From what I hear about Mass I doubt they'll be allowing straight walls like a lot of other shotgun states are.
Lot of good advice there
 
I'd gladly take a slug gun over a ML, just for the convenience and ease of cleaning. Buy one you'll use for other things; small game, birds, etc. Then get a cantilevered slug barrel. Having the scope attached to the barrel lends it to having a better chance of still being sighted in after swapping barrels.
Good points but the cantilever sits to high for easy scope picture! Raising the comb or attaching the scope to the receiver is an option .
 
Good points but the cantilever sits to high for easy scope picture! Raising the comb or attaching the scope to the receiver is an option .
Good observation! I use a removable cheek riser to deal with scope height. I also like that the cheek pad keeps my head up higher which is nice for fast acquisition.
I change barrels and remove the pad for bird hunting.
Its a "compromise", but it works.
 

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Good observation! I use a removable cheek riser to deal with scope height. I also like that the cheek pad keeps my head up higher which is nice for fast acquisition.
I change barrels and remove the pad for bird hunting.
Its a "compromise", but it works.
It’s a smart compromise , I like what you have done there. You set up both way birds and deer and your set up practical . Great job
 
Guys thanks for all the help. I really didn’t like the idea of a muzzleloader although I know it’s the smarter & more cost effective choice.

However, this guys video inspired me.

This looks very doable IMO. I think it’s my unfamiliarity with muzzleloaders that’s put me off them (never even held one), but this design looks manageable.

Questions:

1) What the most user friendly design out there for a muzzle loader. I didn’t know about these break action in line models. These look pretty neat. What is the go-to user friendly design out there?

2) Once loaded, how do I safely store the muzzleloader so that it doesn’t take on moisture WITHOUT firing the shot after every hunt? Do you remove the primer and without the primer the muzzleloader cannot fire? Or the pin (for safety reasons). And how do you avoid moisture while the muzzleloader sits in your truck or basement until the next hunt etc?

Thanks.

UPDATE: Woooahhh what’s the Firestick all about. Just came across this:

I would be very careful about muzzleloaders. Massachusetts appears to have Primitive Firearms Season and modern inline muzzleloaders, particularly those that use Firesticks may not be legal to hunt with. Some of the Black Powder Substitutes, particularly BH 209, may not be legal to hunt with. I don't know your laws, so I don't know what to tell you. My own personal preference is to hunt with a muzzleloader rather than a shotgun.
I used to hunt with a Mossberg 500 rifled slug gun. The biggest problem is that the barrel is too light and it's difficult to hold steady while you are aiming. Recoil is strong and good ammunition is expensive. I now hunt with a T/C Impact, arguably one of the least expensive modern inline muzzleloaders. I've been hunting with it for ten years and I now leave the shotgun at home. I shoot the muzzleloader for two main reasons. When I raise it to my shoulder, it points where I'm looking and when I shoot it, it hits where it is aimed. I typically shoot it two or three times a year. Once to sight in and once per deer. I have yet to need a second shot on a deer. I hunt in the woods, and most shots are within 50 yards. The longest shot that I've taken was 60 yards. I've never shot the Savage slug gun, so I don't know how it compares to other rifled slug guns. I shoot an 80 grain equivalent charge of BH 209 with a 250 grain Barnes Expander MZ sabot bullet and a CCI 209M primer with a muzzle velocity of around 1600 FPS. The recoil is no worse than a 350 Legend cartridge. I could load it heavier, but I see no reason to do so. All but one of my shots on deer have been pass throughs and the one bullet that I recovered had mushroomed perfectly. I shoot pre-weighed powder charges that I carry in small plastic vials. Reloading is as simple as pouring the powder charge in the muzzle, starting the bullet, ramming it home and putting in a primer. Illinois law specifies that removing the primer qualifies as unloading the gun. If I have a round in the rifle when I finish hunting, I often fire it to unload. Sometimes, I remove the breech plug, pour the powder out and remove the bullet through the breech. It's so much easier to clean a rifle after shooting Blackhorn 209 than it is to clean one that has been shooting Triple Seven or one of the other sugar based black powder substitutes. A little carbon residue is all that's left and a few oily patches is all that it takes to clean the barrel. A removable breech plug makes cleaning so much easier. I have a muzzle loader barrel for my Mossy 500 that does not have a removable breech plug and I would not recommend it to anyone. I have yet to have a hang fire with BH 209, while hang fires were the rule with Triple Seven.
Whatever you decide to do, you may very well change your mind after you get some experience with your choice. If our laws were to change to allow straight walled rifle cartridges during deer season, I would probably change, too.
 
You may need to buy several boxes of sabot slugs and see which is the most accurate. Expensive but worthwhile. I've never needed a follow-up shot so a ML would fill me needs as well and be cheaper.
 
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