Kenetrek Boots

Resurrecting "Red Green" a tough Toyota.

Labor Day 2024 update -

Got the passenger side fender replaced. Got the front bumper end caps replaced, Got the headlight surrounds replaced. Lots of fitting to do on the fender. Not my best work, not my worst. Took it for a test run.

Started de-bugging the electrical problems. Headlight relay intermittently will not pick. Either the combo switch or the relay. The relay is identical to the one for the parking lights. Hard to get to under the dashboard, but easy to do a diagnostic swap with the running light relay.

I have the entire rear harness unplugged right now. The left tail light stays on regardless of whether the switch is on or not. It will drain the battery if I don't unplug it. One really cool thing about this Toyota version is that you can disconnect the entire rear harness with a plug behind the passenger seat. Unfortunately, that mean no gas gauge.

IDOT still hasn't hit my CC for the KYSOTI vanity plate. If they would give me a temp, I could take it in for the exhaust system replacement. I guess that give me more time to debug the electrical.

IMG_3891[1].JPGIMG_3897[1].JPGIMG_3895[1].JPGIMG_3896[1].JPG
 
Started prepping the tailgate repair this morning. It will be MIG welded and stronger than the OEM spot welds when I get finished. If you go back through the thread you can see the top of the tailgate is missing. Thankfully I saved it when it came off. Dumbass design. There is a reason they went back to the side clamp closure in 1984 LN50's and the current Hi-Lux.

So in this pic I have it loose fitted and I will start marking and clamping for where I will tack it. Then I will do the inside welds. I will have to remove it to do the outside welds. @p_ham may be able to weld upside down, but not me. The bed wall spot welds in the lower valance are gone as well. These are the only support for the bed walls when the gate is not closed. It is really loose right now. Once the gate is cleaned up, I will re-install it and get the bed walls right. There is some geometry to consider so the clearances are right when I remove the clamps and spreader. Too wide and it won't latch, too narrow and it won't close. You get it.

The rear valance has sagged as well. You have to lift the left side of the tailgate to get the latch to line up and close. I have an idea for a jig to lay across the top with j hooks to engage the tailgate and lift it in position to be tacked. The line on the tailgate in the pics should line up with the matching line on the tailgate bucket. BUT - The top rail of the tailgate has to be fixed first.

IMG_3898[1].JPGIMG_3899[1].JPG
 
I had this on hold while I focused on moose hunting.

Runs and drives. Talked to Idaho DOT about my vanity plate. There was a SNAFU with the order. All squared away now and KYS0TI plate will be here in six weeks.

I am shopping for a MIG welder to get the bed and tailgate back to snuff. I was bidding on one at a school surplus auction. Didn't get it.
Gonna end up at Harbor Freight I suppose.

Immediate to-do items: (These will get me road legal)

Repair bed box and tailgate.
Chassis wiring - Lots of cut wires. I am going to have to replace/re-weave the entire rear bed harness.
Exhaust -Nothing left aft of the catalytic converter.


Future to-do items:

Swap bench seat for buckets.
Upgrade alternator. The original 40 Amp is pretty anemic. I'm thinking a GM 2-wire, but there is some re-wiring required.
Install locking diffs. Leaning toward ARB
Install new bumper and winch.
 
Caribou Gear

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