I have a .280ai and switched from tally rings to a rail system due to a new scope. I have shot this gun enough to know on my old scope I get about a 1.5” drop at 200 yards. With my new scope this drop is now almost 7” has any one experienced this before? Thanks
Point of impact lower than expected.
- Thread starter williaada
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BucksnDucks
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New optics and new mounting system will not affect the "drop" but will likely change point of impact from previous zero. I believe you need to start over. Ensure the rifle is grouping to your expectations, then sight in for zero at preferred distance.
The check weld seems to be ok. I measured the difference on where each scope sits and the height difference was minor less than a 16th of an inch. I had to switch to the rail because the tube is shorter than my previous scope. This the rings were touching the spot where the scope opens up.
BucksnDucks
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I may be confused by your situation. Have you shot with the new set up and got a decent group? The way I'm reading this is you're surprised by the POI after switching scopes, maybe I'm missing something.
cahunter805
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I’m also confused. You switched scopes and installed a rail for a new scope.
Are you zeroed at the same range as the old scope?
Are you dialing for drop or just using the crosshairs at longer distances and measuring your actual drop at each distance?
What was the old scope? New scope?
Something doesn’t make sense here
Are you zeroed at the same range as the old scope?
Are you dialing for drop or just using the crosshairs at longer distances and measuring your actual drop at each distance?
What was the old scope? New scope?
Something doesn’t make sense here
Yes I changed scopes and set up. My old set up was medium high Talley with a vortex razor LHT MOA hashes. The gun and scope grouped well, but I wanted to try my hand with a scope dial and hope to increase my accuracy for groups. I could hit a 3” circle at 300 yards over and over. Using the hash’s on the scope.
I switched to a rail and rings for a model 700 action due to mounting a scope designed for tactical shooting. I then went out and sited the rifle in at 100 yards. I then went out to 200 yards without dialing I get points of impact between 6.5” to 7” drop based on 4 groups of 4 shots each. I could dial the scope to make sure it is tracking, but when I enter my info into a ballistic calculator it tells me I should have between 1.5-1.7 MOA in drop not the 6.5”-7” drop verified at the range.
Hope this makes more sense.
by the way my load is 2875fpd with 150 gr ttsx.
I switched to a rail and rings for a model 700 action due to mounting a scope designed for tactical shooting. I then went out and sited the rifle in at 100 yards. I then went out to 200 yards without dialing I get points of impact between 6.5” to 7” drop based on 4 groups of 4 shots each. I could dial the scope to make sure it is tracking, but when I enter my info into a ballistic calculator it tells me I should have between 1.5-1.7 MOA in drop not the 6.5”-7” drop verified at the range.
Hope this makes more sense.
by the way my load is 2875fpd with 150 gr ttsx.
Ya somethings not right. That bullet going that speed, should not have that much drop at 200 yards. So back to square one.
We mounted up scope, went to zero it.
Hand loads/factory ammo??
When we zeroed at 100 did it print a decent group?
When shooting at 100 and at 200, are we holding on the same spot,tick,hash on the redicle?
Curious on speed, have we shot through a chrono to get numbers??
We mounted up scope, went to zero it.
Hand loads/factory ammo??
When we zeroed at 100 did it print a decent group?
When shooting at 100 and at 200, are we holding on the same spot,tick,hash on the redicle?
Curious on speed, have we shot through a chrono to get numbers??
Hand loads from previous year worked well on deer and elk.
Groups at 100 yards 3-4 shots 2 cutting part of the same hole one shot about an inch away from the pair. Then resettle and put the fourth between the other 3 bullet holes.
when shooting at 200 I am putting the cross hairs where I want the bullet to hit. This results in the 6.5-7” drop. I could hold over and compensate and hit the target, or is this where I use the dial to adjust?
speed is 2875fps we chrono’d all of bullets when working up the hand load. Started around 57 or 58 grains and got high 2500 Fps and worked up from there when shooting through the chrono we had groups of 3 cutting the middle out. The rifle is more accurate than what I can capable of shooting.
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cahunter805
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I would recheck your 100 yard zero and also be sure to adjust your scopes parallax if it has an adjustment for that.
Are you shooting from a sled? Bipod/rear bag?
Are you shooting from a sled? Bipod/rear bag?
I mounted a Larue rail 0 adjustment since I will not be shooting over 500yards. I mounted the rail per Larue’s max torque specs, and then used Warner rings, lapped the rings and torqued the scope rings to the mid range since the torque screw calibration cert showed a +/- of 1.3 in/lbs. Used the Wheel fat screw driver.
cahunter805
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Last edited:
I would agree with @cahunter805, Recheck the 100 yard zero to make sure it is on.
Then make sure the parallax is set properly.
Then make sure the parallax is set properly.
std7mag
Well-known member
I'm taking it the Razor was First Focal Plane?
Is your new tacticool scope also FFP?
If it's a second focal plane, the paperwork with the scope will tell you what magnification to use for the subtensions to match up.
Also note that some SFP scopes will have a POI shift if not at the proper power setting.
I've tried lapping Warne rings before. Found after 2 strokes that i didn't need to lap them.
Is your new tacticool scope also FFP?
If it's a second focal plane, the paperwork with the scope will tell you what magnification to use for the subtensions to match up.
Also note that some SFP scopes will have a POI shift if not at the proper power setting.
I've tried lapping Warne rings before. Found after 2 strokes that i didn't need to lap them.
