That’s basically what I use. Things change a bit 80 feet in the air though.The rule I have used is 80% of the face of the tree and 90 deg notch. Like this:
View attachment 231936
But there are so many variables...
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That’s basically what I use. Things change a bit 80 feet in the air though.The rule I have used is 80% of the face of the tree and 90 deg notch. Like this:
View attachment 231936
But there are so many variables...
Nice to have feedback from a pro, thanks.That’s basically what I use. Things change a bit 80 feet in the air though.
The rule I have used is 80% of the face of the tree and 90 deg notch. Like this:
View attachment 231936
But there are so many variables...
The problem with the Conventional or Humboldt is that the notch can close before the hinge has completely failed and you end up with something like what NR_Hunter posted a pic of. It's very little extra work to make it a 90 deg notch.
Thanks for the insight. I understand your first post better now. Definitely different priorities and concerns logging in a forest vs an arborist working in town.Totally agree with that, problem being when it comes to getting paid scale they will measure to you short side and on big timber, and especially jug-butted ones like incense cedar, your putting extra weight, etc. between the bunks that you aren’t getting paid for. Completely different perspective than with tree/arborist work where concerns for safety and/or the surrounding grounds are key.
Pops was old school and tight with the dollar when he needed to be. Want to see a man go ape-shit you shoulda witnessed him (redwood logging) when he’d spend an hour building a lay and the faller miss it and chunk up a tree….could get ugly
Good looking tree monkey work there though @Dsnow9
Attics sucks, and that doesn’t look like an office job to me.Don't talk to me about hot out! I measured my current workspace at 110 today and it wasn't even in the 90s outside
View attachment 233214