Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

New 30-06. Thinking about trying copper.

BEFORE you try ANY copper bullet.
YOU HAVE to clean your bore down to Bare steel.
This step is VERY important.
Copper bullets will not shoot to their full potential, shooting over Gilding metal fouling. Trust me on this. I have no idea why but it has been proven multiple times. All my rifles shot copper better after a full cleaning.
IMG_1116.jpeg
 
Both of my 06's have loved the Barnes 165 grain ttsx. I'm right at 2800 fps so I'm good out to about 300-350 using this combo & getting the expansion I want.

The 150's will do anything you ask of them, but I get comfort in the extra 15 grains.

But a few different boxes & give them a try. When you find the load the rifle likes, get as much of the ammo from that batch as possible to maintain consistency in your ammo.
 
I used Fed./Barnes 165's for 20 years then switched to Nosler AB 165's the last 12 years. Elk ,deer, pigs,bear.
Found some new Fed. Barnes options to try. Also getting reload set up soon.
My old 700 never shot the 180's as well.
 
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BEFORE you try ANY copper bullet.
YOU HAVE to clean your bore down to Bare steel.
This step is VERY important.
Copper bullets will not shoot to their full potential, shooting over Gilding metal fouling. Trust me on this. I have no idea why but it has been proven multiple times. All my rifles shot copper better after a full cleaning.
I have been hearing this more and more. I struggled with groups with switching to copper rounds for years likely because of this reason. Are Barnes, Trophy copper, Etip and Hornady CX close enough in composition that you can switch between them?
 
I have been hearing this more and more. I struggled with groups with switching to copper rounds for years likely because of this reason. Are Barnes, Trophy copper, Etip and Hornady CX close enough in composition that you can switch between them?
I would think so. Copper likes gliding on copper.
AB's work in similar fashion. I shoot a fouled barrel. If I clean it it takes a few to get zero again.
I will clean it completely before dialing in any new rounds. Start from scratch again.
 
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Okay interesting. I don't want to think how much ammo i have wastes while testing ammo types not considering this issue...

What is everyones favorite solvent that is kind to barrels but removes copper efficiently? I currently use Hopes #9
 
I have been hearing this more and more. I struggled with groups with switching to copper rounds for years likely because of this reason. Are Barnes, Trophy copper, Etip and Hornady CX close enough in composition that you can switch between them?

I'd be leery of changing ammo and expecting the same POA/POI, even if it's the same grain weight in bullet. Your ballistic coefficient, powders & primers vary, as do cases. Those small variations become large divergences at hunting distance.

Practice, that's the key to accuracy with any choice of ammo. It's also why having 100-200 rounds of your preferred load on hand is a smart investment.

The best advice I've ever received on accuracy is to "remove all of the variables until you achieve the accuracy you are looking for." That means being consistent on ammo and reducing the variability between loads to me.
 
I'd be leery of changing ammo and expecting the same POA/POI, even if it's the same grain weight in bullet. Your ballistic coefficient, powders & primers vary, as do cases. Those small variations become large divergences at hunting distance.

Practice, that's the key to accuracy with any choice of ammo. It's also why having 100-200 rounds of your preferred load on hand is a smart investment.

The best advice I've ever received on accuracy is to "remove all of the variables until you achieve the accuracy you are looking for." That means being consistent on ammo and reducing the variability between loads to me.
I definitely understand that every ammo and bullet type will have variable POI/POA even between different batch numbers of the same ammo. My concern is group size with the different ammos. When ammo testing i would shoot 3 - three shot groups out of 4-5 ammos to find which ammo my gun liked and produced the best groups. i never cleaned in between different ammos so i likely didnt give the copper rounds a fair chance to group well.

Apparently when doing my ammo tests i need to shoot 2-3 lead core loads and see how they group, then fully clean my barrel to bare steel. Then shoot my 2-3 Mono ammos. This sounds like it will give the copper loads a better chance to group well compared to not cleaning in-between.
 
I definitely understand that every ammo and bullet type will have variable POI/POA even between different batch numbers of the same ammo. My concern is group size with the different ammos. When ammo testing i would shoot 3 - three shot groups out of 4-5 ammos to find which ammo my gun liked and produced the best groups. i never cleaned in between different ammos so i likely didnt give the copper rounds a fair chance to group well.

Apparently when doing my ammo tests i need to shoot 2-3 lead core loads and see how they group, then fully clean my barrel to bare steel. Then shoot my 2-3 Mono ammos. This sounds like it will give the copper loads a better chance to group well compared to not cleaning in-between.

Apologies for misunderstanding.

My own experience is that a fouled bore does give more consistent accuracy. I don't know that it matters if you use leadcore for fouling or not. I tend to use the cartridge I'm going to hunt with as the only load for testing. Since this is factory, yeah - clean it down to the bare metal, get a few shots in to foul the bbl, and then try.

But also try it with your copper loads. It might not matter, but using the same powder & metals will also increase accuracy due to no variation in powder residue of copper fouling.
 
Apologies for misunderstanding.

My own experience is that a fouled bore does give more consistent accuracy. I don't know that it matters if you use leadcore for fouling or not. I tend to use the cartridge I'm going to hunt with as the only load for testing. Since this is factory, yeah - clean it down to the bare metal, get a few shots in to foul the bbl, and then try.

But also try it with your copper loads. It might not matter, but using the same powder & metals will also increase accuracy due to no variation in powder residue of copper fouling.
Okay that makes sense. what's your favorite Barrel cleaner that removes copper efficiently that isn't harmful to the barrel and gun?
 
Okay that makes sense. what's your favorite Barrel cleaner that removes copper efficiently that isn't harmful to the barrel and gun?

I usually use the Barnes C-10 cleaner for mine, then follow it up with some hoppes #9 to that they have the proper cologne and to remove any ammonia that's left behind.

Then I dab a little Hoppe's behind my ear and come calling on the mrs. She loves the smell of Hoppes in the morning.
 
Current non-lead bullet models from Nosler, Hornady, Barnes, and Hammer are all very deadly on game within usual hunting ranges. Buy a few boxes, and see what your rifle likes.

Mine happens to love the factory Nosler E-Tips, and the Hornady GMX was also a good performer (I haven't had the chance to try the factory CX loads yet). Terminal performance with the Hammer Hunters has been flawless, but I haven't figured out an accurate load quite yet.

Cheers!
 
Okay interesting. I don't want to think how much ammo i have wastes while testing ammo types not considering this issue...

What is everyones favorite solvent that is kind to barrels but removes copper efficiently? I currently use Hopes #9
Both Boretech Eliminator or Sharpshooter Wipeout do very well removing copper from my 25-06. Safe also.

My big problem is with carbon.
 
I really like the heavier 180 grain Barnes but my gun likes heavier bullets
 
Set your bore up, as mentioned, for the 150 TTSX. Workup your best load that groups under 1.5"@ 100. Then, clean your bore again, etc, and using the same cases/primer/powder work up your best load (again, under 1.5") with the Hornady 150 Interlock (FB) This is your "practice" load, but also works swell with everything else, from antelope to elk! However, the 150 TTSX "will" give you more bone breaking than the Hornady...usually...sometimes...lol You will shoot more of the 150 Hornady's for trigger time, coyotes, all year long. You could do this with the 165-168gr range also. If your rifle ends up liking the 180's more (it can happen) thats cool too. 180 TTSX / 175 LRX and 180 Hornady or 175 Sierras, and so on. I like IMR 4350 burn range with the 150 and H4350 with the 165s. I wouldn't bother with H4831 unless you go to the 180. Just saying. But have a ball Pard! :)
 
Since this thread was brought back to the top, I’ll give an update. The first round I shot through the gun would not eject. It was stuck in the chamber. I had to run a cleaning rod down the barrel to force it out. Second round did the same thing. I had to send it back to Kimber. They re-barreled it and sent it back. Including in the box were the targets they used when testing the new barrel. It took me a while to find the ammo they used, but I was finally able to score a few boxes. I haven’t shot it yet, but I’m excited to already know what ammo groups well out of it. IMG_5592.jpeg
 
Wow! I take it you mean the case was stuck in the chamber? Or was the bullet stuck as well (as in a squib load where the powder doesn't ignite). Just curious.

Glad Kimber re-barrelled it for you!
 

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