Mixing brass of different manufacture, yes or no?

[sbhooper]

Good advice, but I'll add the caveat of "how hot will you load?" I have absolutely NO qualms about mixing headstamps. None. But then again, I don't load my stuff to max or near max (pistol or rifle). I'm usually mid- to mid-high in my loads, so a little less capacity here, a few tenths of a grain of powder there, etc. will not affect a thing; at least not where safety is concerned. If you're approaching max loads, then yes, it becomes important. As does weighing each individual charge, using the same primer, etc.

Emrah

What he said. I have been reloading for over 40 years and never had a problem mixing cases. I usually try to stay with one brand and pretty much do all the time now. I have mixed them off and on over the years and saw no problems. I think it is more important if you are a hole puncher and are splitting hairs. I never had a problem finding a sub-minute load in any rifle and that has been plenty good for hunting accuracy.

 

[Southwind]

I'll jump in.......

It does matter! If you are trying to be as accurate as you can then don't mix brass. When I was competing I would weigh all my brass from the same head-stamp and separate into weight groups. Yes those little things do matter when you are trying to squeak out the most consistent and accurate loads.

Also, the pressure issue is a real issue and you don't have to be loading "Hot" or "Max" loads to have problems. For example, what may be a mid range load in one brass is all of a sudden using everything the same except your brass is a "max" load. Do you want that one flyer mixed in the group when you are lining up on a royal bull at 500 meters? Do you want that doubt?

So if I was traveling across the pond and had spent a lot of money on equipment, travel, etc.. why not bring the most consistent and accurate ammo you can?

Yes, you may get away with it like some here have but why take a chance when you don't have to?

 

[Ben Lamb]

Just for clarification, I wasn't suggesting haphazardly throwing caution to the wind, loading non approved components and praying for the best! I tried Small Rifle Primers in .38 Special after a bunch of research. Internet research, but research nonetheless. I found that a cast 155gr. bullet over a mid-warm charge of 4.4 gr. of unique works just fine in a pinch.

Also learned a bunch of stuff when I got into casting. A whole different set of rules applies to cast loads vs jacketed. Bullets are oversized (by design), engraving is ok, handgun powders are used, etc. I'm pretty sure my bulk/batch loads of Lee 170 gr flat points (182 gr has checked, lubed, sized .311) over 16.0 of A2400 are unaffected by a .1 or .2 grain difference throw to throw. Neither is a 230 gr cast .45 ACP bullet over 5.8 gr. of Unique.

If I'm loading near max, every charge is weight and individually poured.

Emrah

For clarification, I never took what you had said to mean you were blithely ignoring safety.

I've been shooting cast for a year now in several rifles and pistols and it seems much more forgiving, especially since I'm not on the ragged edge of pressure like I am with the hi velocity cartridges like the 30-06.

Richard - If I had the dexterity to tie flies, I'd not be so OCD about reloading. I view it more as another hobby outside of hunting so I tend to obsess over it rather than just view it as a means to an end. I switched to Superformance (Hogdgon made) for my 180 loads and it brought a rifle that wouldn't group 180's w/4350 into an MOA shooter w/ any 180 I put in it.

If your rifle likes 4350 in the 180's then I would imagine 55 grains would be a decent starting place. If it won't group, get a slightly slower powder like 4831, RL 19, etc.

Also, I've used handloads.com for some good information in terms of searching for specific bullets & powder combinations. I don't take anything on the site as gospel and apply some basic safety precautions when working up a load (reduce by 10%, etc).

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...ld&Weight=180&type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=

 

[emrah1028]

Richard,

52.5 gr of IMR-4350 works great for me with Hornady 180gr Interloc SPs. Just over MOA in my Savage Axis.

Emrah

 

[devon deer]

I had loaded these before reading your last two posts.

I was loaned a chronograph, something i had never used before, but it gave me a surprising result in relation to my .243 100 grain, which i load with 40.5 grains of RL19, I have shot more deer than i care to remember with it, Muntjac, Roe, Fallow and big Red Stags, i will not change anything, its the 3 lower most holes, 2681'/sec, i was expecting it to be nearer 3000'/sec.
165 grain Sierra Game King, 56 grains of IMR 4350 CCI primers and the Federal brass, average 2870'/sec
180 grain Nosler Partition, 55 grains IMR 4350 CCI primers and the Norma brass, 2690'/sec but, i fired just the one, pressure signs!
So i will chuck the Norma in the bin, and have another go with the 180 NP in the federal brass but start much lower.
If that fails i will stick with the 165 grain Sierra's.

Thanks for all your advice on this.
Cheers
Richard

 

[danr55]

Can you do this? Probably if the load is not close to max for your rifle. Should you do this? Never. Different brass has different case thicknesses. Since the outside of the cases are all the same, the only place that difference can go is inside. That creates different combustion chamber sizes. It can have a marked effect on accuracy and performance of the same load. Things like burning speed of the powder and the particular round you are loading can contribute to the difference in performance. A 264 win mag will show a much more exagerated difference than say a 35 whelan. The difference between IMR 3031 and 4831 will be much more exagerated than the difference between IMR 4350 and IMR 4831. Case wall thickness will contribute to this difference in much the same manner.