Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

Mixing brass of different manufacture, yes or no?

devon deer

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I have some Federal and Norma brass, fire formed in my 30-06.
Now, can i/should i use both to reload?
Just starting to reload my ammo for my Elk visit and i want to get it right!
Cheers
Richard
 
I've done the same thing with no issue. Neck size only from now on. Just make sure you are checking your case length and trimming necks as needed.
 
Yes you can but I noticed in my gun the Norma holds a tighter group. For that reason I keep them separate from each other. Now I could be going over board there is not much of a difference, but why not have the tightest group possible
 
One thing you can do before you start loading is weigh the cases. Since the outside dimensions will be controlled by your chamber or full length sizing die, the difference will show up in internal case capacity. A heavier case will have slightly less room inside. It might end up that each case likes a different powder charge for equivalent accuracy and velocity, or the POI might shift a bit. Really, though, there's only one way to find out. Load 'em up and shoot 'em. Run some charge weight ladder tests with both cases, keeping everything sorted. If you're lucky, your rifle will shoot them both the same.
 
I have some Federal and Norma brass, fire formed in my 30-06.
Now, can i/should i use both to reload?
Just starting to reload my ammo for my Elk visit and i want to get it right!
Cheers
Richard

I've had loads that are safe in one brand of brass be dangerously over-pressure in others. I don't mix headstamps at all. Each headstamp has a specific load that I've worked up for that particular list of components. Biscuit hunter is right on with weighing your brass. You can even get more pedantic and measure your flash-hole, etc but for the most part - it's a safe practice to keep your brass separated by headstamp and develop loads for that specific list of components.

Again, it might be overkill, but pressure is a worrisome thing for me.
 
OK, thanks that makes sense.
My rifle is a little fussy, i use IMR 4350 56 grains and 165 grain Sierra Gamekings in the Federal brass, i tried the 180 grain Nosler Partition but the groups became inconsistent.
I bought Norma factory ammo in 150 grain ballistic tip last year because i couldn't hold of anything else.
So as an experiment i will work up a load again using the Norma brass and the Nosler.
But then again perhaps i shouldn't mess around, i have got to know what the Gamekings do.
After all your Elk aren't bullet proof are they?
Cheers
Richard
 
I wouldn't do it, capacity is different. I have a pet load that works great in my -06 (and several others)with 58 gr of h4350, with winchester or norma brass but if I put that same 58 gr in a federal case its has pressure signs and becomes a compressed load. reduced case capacity increases pressure, so I reduce that load to 57gr in those cases and it works good. always work up when changing any component just to make sure.
 
Good advice, but I'll add the caveat of "how hot will you load?" I have absolutely NO qualms about mixing headstamps. None. But then again, I don't load my stuff to max or near max (pistol or rifle). I'm usually mid- to mid-high in my loads, so a little less capacity here, a few tenths of a grain of powder there, etc. will not affect a thing; at least not where safety is concerned. If you're approaching max loads, then yes, it becomes important. As does weighing each individual charge, using the same primer, etc.

Emrah
 
It's best not to mix different components using the same load recipes, but rather work up a load recipe for each case, as several have stated here.
 
Good advice, but I'll add the caveat of "how hot will you load?" I have absolutely NO qualms about mixing headstamps. None. But then again, I don't load my stuff to max or near max (pistol or rifle). I'm usually mid- to mid-high in my loads, so a little less capacity here, a few tenths of a grain of powder there, etc. will not affect a thing; at least not where safety is concerned. If you're approaching max loads, then yes, it becomes important. As does weighing each individual charge, using the same primer, etc.

Emrah

This would drive my OCD out beyond the breaking point. ;)
 
Ben, you'd have fits at my house then! I load .45, .38 Special and .30-30 in bulk (I've decided .30-30 is my zombie apocalype/SHTF rifle in lieu of an AR). Cast lead bullets, mid-range charges, mixed headstamps, etc. Even small primers pocket .45 ACP brass loaded along side Large primer pocket stuff. And even - get ready for this - Small Rifle primers in .38 Special in a pinch!!!! I know, shocking!

I'm saying this partially in jest, but for what I load, mixing/matching makes not a hill of beans. And it's nowhere near unsafe at the loads I load. I know because I've tried it and worked up to stuff over time. For bulk stuff, I'm happy with the loads I have and know what I can change and how much before it's an unsafe practice.

Now, if I'm loading a small batch of hunting rounds (30-06, .243, 8mm Mauser), I'll weight each charge to less than .1 grain, seating depths exact, crimps exact, etc.

But for bulk stuff, I'll weigh a few to get the right powder dump, check the dump charge again after 10 rounds, then load the rest of the loading block of 50. I'll do a "check dump" at the end to verify something hasn't gone wonky from beginning to end. Works just dandy for me.

As with anything you have to use your head and figure out what techniques work for you.

Emrah
 
Ben, you'd have fits at my house then! I load .45, .38 Special and .30-30 in bulk (I've decided .30-30 is my zombie apocalype/SHTF rifle in lieu of an AR). Cast lead bullets, mid-range charges, mixed headstamps, etc. Even small primers pocket .45 ACP brass loaded along side Large primer pocket stuff. And even - get ready for this - Small Rifle primers in .38 Special in a pinch!!!! I know, shocking!

I'm saying this partially in jest, but for what I load, mixing/matching makes not a hill of beans. And it's nowhere near unsafe at the loads I load. I know because I've tried it and worked up to stuff over time. For bulk stuff, I'm happy with the loads I have and know what I can change and how much before it's an unsafe practice.

Now, if I'm loading a small batch of hunting rounds (30-06, .243, 8mm Mauser), I'll weight each charge to less than .1 grain, seating depths exact, crimps exact, etc.

But for bulk stuff, I'll weigh a few to get the right powder dump, check the dump charge again after 10 rounds, then load the rest of the loading block of 50. I'll do a "check dump" at the end to verify something hasn't gone wonky from beginning to end. Works just dandy for me.

As with anything you have to use your head and figure out what techniques work for you.

Emrah


Oh Boy - guess it'd be best if I kept my mouth shut - to each his own. Good luck.
 
Cowboy, go ahead and speak up. You won't hurt my feelings. There is absolutely nothing I'm doing that is unsafe or dangerous. Again, it's about experience and working up loads that works for you. I bet some of you guys' heads would explode if you got into casting bullets. Loading bullets .003 over groove diameter! Heavens! Loading some bullets as-cast and unsized? Shocking! Bullet nose diameter big and long enough to engrave rifling when the lever is closed? Good Lord!!!

Emrah
 
I shoot the Norma and Winchester side by side. I was at the low end of the guide books for the Winchester and showed significant signs of pressure in the Norma. I think mixing them could cause serious saftey issues. JMO

I decided to go with the Norma brass. It's expensive but shoots great out of my rifle.
 
Ben, you'd have fits at my house then! I load .45, .38 Special and .30-30 in bulk (I've decided .30-30 is my zombie apocalype/SHTF rifle in lieu of an AR). Cast lead bullets, mid-range charges, mixed headstamps, etc. Even small primers pocket .45 ACP brass loaded along side Large primer pocket stuff. And even - get ready for this - Small Rifle primers in .38 Special in a pinch!!!! I know, shocking!

I'm saying this partially in jest, but for what I load, mixing/matching makes not a hill of beans. And it's nowhere near unsafe at the loads I load. I know because I've tried it and worked up to stuff over time. For bulk stuff, I'm happy with the loads I have and know what I can change and how much before it's an unsafe practice.

Now, if I'm loading a small batch of hunting rounds (30-06, .243, 8mm Mauser), I'll weight each charge to less than .1 grain, seating depths exact, crimps exact, etc.

But for bulk stuff, I'll weigh a few to get the right powder dump, check the dump charge again after 10 rounds, then load the rest of the loading block of 50. I'll do a "check dump" at the end to verify something hasn't gone wonky from beginning to end. Works just dandy for me.

As with anything you have to use your head and figure out what techniques work for you.

Emrah

For a more serious answer, I load pistol rounds with mixed headstamps. I'm much less picky about those than rifle loads. But I still batch load using a single stage press, measure every 5th or 10th charge and seat & crimp in two separate stages. I'm particular about primers, and won't switch primers in a batch of 100. I've been moving away from mixed primer manufacturers lately and sticking with just Federal as they seem to give me great service and constant ignition. CCI is good too, but during the recent troubles I was able to get Feds easily.

On rifle rounds, I trim, chamfer & deburr, uniform each pocket and will be setting up to turn necks in order to ensure as little variation between individual cartridges. Each lot of cases has been fired the same number of times, processed in a batch, etc. I measure each charge to within .1 grain, often times removing individual grains of powder by hand. All primers must come from the same lot in order to ensure optimum continuity as well.

I do this even on cartridges that I plan on running through an AR or other spray & pray guns. All on a single stage Rockchucker or Rockchucker Jr. It takes a lot longer but I'm able to produce loads that consistently shoot under MOA (much better than I can consistently shoot for sure). Is it overkill? You bet, but then, Van Gogh could have painted by numbers, but I wouldn't call it art. :D

My name is Ben, and I'm a loadaholic.
 
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Just for clarification, I wasn't suggesting haphazardly throwing caution to the wind, loading non approved components and praying for the best! I tried Small Rifle Primers in .38 Special after a bunch of research. Internet research, but research nonetheless. I found that a cast 155gr. bullet over a mid-warm charge of 4.4 gr. of unique works just fine in a pinch.

Also learned a bunch of stuff when I got into casting. A whole different set of rules applies to cast loads vs jacketed. Bullets are oversized (by design), engraving is ok, handgun powders are used, etc. I'm pretty sure my bulk/batch loads of Lee 170 gr flat points (182 gr has checked, lubed, sized .311) over 16.0 of A2400 are unaffected by a .1 or .2 grain difference throw to throw. Neither is a 230 gr cast .45 ACP bullet over 5.8 gr. of Unique.

If I'm loading near max, every charge is weight and individually poured.

Emrah
 
measure case capacity

To get case capacity take new brass and fill just short of overflowing with water on a scale(seat a used primer in each) Finish off with an eyedropper making sure both are filled to the same point. This will give you the case capacity that you can use against their dry weight. Every now and again a Federal case slips in with my Winchester's and I miss it; resulting in a blown primer. If you know anyone with the Quickload program, have them run your numbers for you.
 
My name is Ben, and I'm a loadaholic.
My name is Richard, and i ain't a loadaholic!
Right, i won't mix them, i will treat them separately.
165 grain in the Federal brass and 180 grain in the Norma.
I am happy with the 165 load, i will work up with the 180's using IMR 4350, any load suggestions on the latter?
Cheers
Richard
 
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