Metalworking Hunttalkers!

If you just want to practice laying beads get a square -ish piece of plate and run stringer beads next to each other until you cover the plate. Run another set of beads 90* to the first ones. Repeat, repeat, repeat,,,,, any type weld procedure. Stick, MIG, Tig, aluminum etc. The end result will (should) be a relatively square block of weld. Try to do it with aluminum and not have it looks like a pyramid.
 
I got another 10 minutes of free time between the kids weekend activities so I laid down a bead of 7018 on one side and 6013 on the other, just to keep working towards something decent (my second weekend of doing any welding). My question for you guys is what are you using to practice on that is easy to find and not crazy expensive? I cut a long formwork stake in half for this, but I only get about 16” of real welding before running out. Any creative ideas would be appreciated (and I continue to apologize for the look of my welds - if I can find some time to really dedicate to practicing I hope to start improving much more).

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Turn your amps up.
 
Slowly but surely, coming together... It's been a few years since I last used the spool gun (Miller 150).

I forgot how high the temp has to be. I knew it was higher for aluminum though, the world stopped shaking when I dialed it up to 7 for 1/8". Then repetition on the project, better beads each run. Chit ones to begin. Haha!

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Next to figure:
Hold to secure - Trying to stay from pins and bolt/nut type connection to lock the extension to the boat ladder.

How to frame the remainder - Intend to double the thickness of the boat step with the extension.
Still figuring how to connect the pivot point of the boat ladder to the extension.

I dig these hobby projects. Clears the mind of work and other clutter. 80's rock and welding. Day one of three off. Happy to have my welding setup back and running.
I used to run a spool gun inside aluminum dump beds quite a bit. I riveted a towel to my helmet to cover the back of my head so my ears would stop getting flash burns.
 
I got another 10 minutes of free time between the kids weekend activities so I laid down a bead of 7018 on one side and 6013 on the other, just to keep working towards something decent (my second weekend of doing any welding). My question for you guys is what are you using to practice on that is easy to find and not crazy expensive? I cut a long formwork stake in half for this, but I only get about 16” of real welding before running out. Any creative ideas would be appreciated (and I continue to apologize for the look of my welds - if I can find some time to really dedicate to practicing I hope to start improving much more).

View attachment 273921View attachment 273922
amps up and slow down a bit. You should be getting a nice oval puddle.
 
I used to run a spool gun inside aluminum dump beds quite a bit. I riveted a towel to my helmet to cover the back of my head so my ears would stop getting flash burns.
Bad memories,,,,I stick welded a 4x4x8 steel tank from the inside when I was young and dumb. Every square inch of exposed skin was burned.
 
I got another 10 minutes of free time between the kids weekend activities so I laid down a bead of 7018 on one side and 6013 on the other, just to keep working towards something decent (my second weekend of doing any welding). My question for you guys is what are you using to practice on that is easy to find and not crazy expensive? I cut a long formwork stake in half for this, but I only get about 16” of real welding before running out. Any creative ideas would be appreciated (and I continue to apologize for the look of my welds - if I can find some time to really dedicate to practicing I hope to start improving much more).
Dude its fine, your getting there. Stay in the weld a tad longer looks like your rushing it. They call em Whips but its just a short motion forward and back. Some really good YouTube videos out there demonstrating. It just takes practice.

Home depot sells some flat stock of 1/8 inch plates. handy thing for practicing. Practice in short 1 to 2 inch beads and get those mastered before you tackle long ones. From what I just saw I think you would benefit from that. Dont be in such a rush.
 
While stick welding, dont rush things.

While stick welding I do a little bit of a whip pause, whip pause, pushing my weld back over itself to get most of the junk to "boil out". It gets your material pre-heated a bit before you get there. But thats just me.

Not going for the "Stack of dimes look, but it does kinda create one and it avoids undercut pretty well.

Also, I am no expert, but I do know that those 7018 rods are a bear to use if they even sense moisture. I had to throw a whole box away not long ago. Got new rods and it was unreal the difference in using "fresh rods".
 
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Once you find the right heat, to me, watching the puddle defines my speed and makes the chit fun as heck!

As mentioned, flat stock is great for running penetrating beads. Once you get that dialed, tack for corner beads, I find "C" movements pulling the puddle from one piece to the other works.
Do remember, as your weld continues, your material heats, as it heats your movements need to speed up slightly...

Becomes a game. I dig puddles of metal.

*This is a rookie hobbyist talking. 25 years ago, I was a shop detailer with welding, mechanical drafting, and AutoCad courses.
The instructor was fantastic! All I wanted to do was work Tig and he let me so long as I passed my oxyacetylene rod dipping and stick weld tests...

If you're able, a single entry community college course is worth it's weight - and fun as heck. Wish my old fart lifestyle permitted me to continue. Fun as heck.
 
Also, I am no expert, but I do know that those 7018 rods are a bear to use if they even sense moisture. I had to throw a whole box away not long ago. Got new rods and it was unreal the difference in using "fresh rods".
Rod ovens are fairly cheap (or you could go the really cheap option and use a yard sale toaster oven). Not allowed for lo-hy purposes but for hobby stuff it's no problem. Doesn't take too long to dry them out to a usable level.
 
If you're able, a single entry community college course is worth it's weight - and fun as heck. Wish my old fart lifestyle permitted me to continue. Fun as heck.
A few years ago I wanted to brush up my TIG skills so took a welding class at the local community college. It was a blast!! The instructor was an old friend of mine. The majority of the students were military veterans taking classes to become welders. I made some good friends of some of the younger guys that still drop by the shop now and then. I was the first student that qualified for my veterans benefits and social security. I ended up taking 4 semesters
It was as much a social event as it was a brush up.
 
A few years ago I wanted to brush up my TIG skills so took a welding class at the local community college. It was a blast!! The instructor was an old friend of mine. The majority of the students were military veterans taking classes to become welders. I made some good friends of some of the younger guys that still drop by the shop now and then. I was the first student that qualified for my veterans benefits and social security. I ended up taking 4 semesters
It was as much a social event as it was a brush up.
I want to get into tig. But my dang hands are so shaky i dont think it will ever happen. Have to make due being a mig monkey.
 
I want to get into tig. But my dang hands are so shaky i dont think it will ever happen. Have to make due being a mig monkey.
Thats funny because my hands shake quite often. One of the "kids" had a booth a few rows over that I was pretty good friends with. I liked to run the frequency up around 400htz. welding aluminum because the machine I used was very loud. It drove people crazy. He would yell across the shop " Hey old man, I can hear your hands shaking from here".
 
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Interesting thread. I bought a little flux core welder and a similar size plasma cutter this winter as I needed to do some welding at work and getting the maintenance dude to do it required a local election! Anyhoo, thankfully, my hands are steady and I perused some videos and have been quite pleased with my results thus far. I am anxious to get some things done here on the farm once I become more proficient!
 
Having a blast working on my boat ladder extension build.
Finished angling and closing the open ends of the tube for the bottom step:

IMG_20230503_185918675_HDR.jpg

Worked on completing the full weld lengths at tacked points on the tube aluminum (2x1) such as the ones shown below (corners and doubled portion, etc) :

IMG_20230503_185050262_HDR.jpg

Then....
I f-ked up on an otherwise great project. Advice sought to resolve my fudge up.
I blanked and had a good bead running, I continued the full length vs three separate bead runs to let the metal cool between each run.

Due to my over heat, you can see the heat pulled my ladder body inward AN ENTIRE INCH! I placed a straight piece along side my ladder build to show the extent of separation. Pretty UGLY. Ugh!

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19 1/2" at my weld run /double ladder rung.

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18 1/2"...

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I can not bend to resolve the 1" because the straight side will take the brunt of the bend.
I can use a bottle jack to press upward on the double rung though the force necessary will flex the weakest link which is a quality step - that won't work.

Frustratingly, my best option that I can see Is to cut through the tube aluminum along the edge of the double and single rung portion of the ladder.
Either torching the double once cut and bending the entire left side upward until I get it back in line...

Then...

Heat the single rung and try to bend that portion until it meets with the left w/o bending the right body side of the ladder.

The previous thread showed the extension intent though to share here for sale of understanding, below is a general idea of my boat ladder extension pre-additions shown in this post:

IMG_20230424_163144582_HDR.jpg


Other thoughts how to fix my fugg up?

Still an enjoyably great project though bummed I blanked on the extreme heat reaction to the body of the build.

Thanks in advance. Looking forward to the ideas.
 
If you decide to heat to make it malleable,,,, aluminum can be softened fairly easily. Take your oxy acetylene torch and fire it up with no oxygen. Get the smokiest nastiest flame you can and blacken the metal thoroughly. Then turn on the oxygen to get a nice gentle, not too lean blue flame. Heat the metal to the point where the soot is burned off. When it cools you will be surprised how easily it can be bent and shaped.
 
What are you trolling for? what's your bait of choice? Hotdogs?
I usually run loaded crack pipes on outriggers in the wake zone. If the bite gets finicky I might try an ebt card on a drop shot or double dropper loop. In between the 1st and 15th during the dry spell I rig them all with Sabiki's and dirt weed..
Most of my reels have at least 500 yards of braid and a Seaguar Flouro leader so switching it up is a non issue.
 
I usually run loaded crack pipes on outriggers in the wake zone. If the bite gets finicky I might try an ebt card on a drop shot or double dropper loop. In between the 1st and 15th during the dry spell I rig them all with Sabiki's and dirt weed..
Most of my reels have at least 500 yards of braid and a Seaguar Flouro leader so switching it up is a non issue.
Make sure to keep your gaff handy, and possibly a bang stick. Don't want those nasty things thrashing around on deck!
 
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