Introduction to Muzzleloading

[Matthew57]

They also list a 1:28 twist version. What are the benefits to going that route?

I'm sure other experts can chime in on their preferences, but my rule of thumb is a faster twist like 1:28 is better when shooting conical bullets with polymer bases like a Powerbelt or Hornady Bore Driver. A slower twist rifle like 1:50 would be my choice if i was shooting a round ball or pure lead conical. The theory there is a faster twist rate stabilizes the longer sleeker bullets like the ELD-X better.

 

[Irrelevant]

I'm sure other experts can chime in on their preferences, but my rule of thumb is a faster twist like 1:28 is better when shooting conical bullets with polymer bases like a Powerbelt or Hornady Bore Driver. A slower twist rifle like 1:50 would be my choice if i was shooting a round ball or pure lead conical. The theory there is a faster twist rate stabilizes the longer sleeker bullets like the ELD-X better.

So for WA I plan to shoot conical sabots, but it sounds like that's not an option for other states. Right now, I'm really only looking at WA.

 

[WildWill]

Totally, it's just unclear if I need it. My reading is that I don't. You only need a different breech plug if you have a 2009 or older.

If you plan on using 209 get it. Mines far newer then a 2009 and I had issues with the orginal breech plug and 209. Also get a 1:28 twist will shoot sabots and non saboted conicals fine.

 

[Irrelevant]

Done

 

[WildWill]

Done
View attachment 353554

Awesome! I have a feeling the bore drivers will far out perform those powerbelts let us know.

 

[Matthew57]

Done
View attachment 353554

Good call, I agree with @WildWill

 

[Irrelevant]

Sorta a stress purchase... work has been terrible, family stuff is, well, tough, and then the "conclusions" if you want to call them that of the bonus thread, just left me more stressed.

This'll at least distract me for a while.

 

[Matthew57]

Sorta a stress purchase... work has been terrible, family stuff is, well, tough, and then the "conclusions" if you want to call them that of the bonus thread, just left me more stressed.

This'll at least distract me for a while.

I’ve had a lot of fun tinkering with mine, hope you enjoy yours.

 

[Treeshark]

Done
View attachment 353554

Good to go with primers?

 

[Irrelevant]

Good to go with primers?

Going to look locally. Same for powder. I found both online but shipping was stupid high

 

[Matthew57]

Going to look locally. Same for powder. I found both online but shipping was stupid high

If you have any trouble finding primers, hit me up if you’re ever in the Spokane area.

 

[Benfromalbuquerque]

I get midsouth notices by text message. Every couple months they come out with free hazmat with purchase >$99. Well shit, you get in on a several different pounds of black powder, substitutes and you’re there. Hazmat shipping upcharge is stupid and indiscriminate too since charge is the same for 8lb as a single 1lb powder order.

 

[Mattwan99]

Hey I need to do something else. WA rifle deer sucks. And I'm still giving archery the middle finger. I've shot a muzzleloader once in my life. Does anyone know of any decent resources for how to do it? The equipment, the loading process, the cleaning process, etc. KISS, I'm a noob if ever there was one. Maybe an article or YT series. I'm probably not going to go all traditional, sorry @BrentD . WA allowed shotgun primers, and just this year 1x scopes or red dots.

I popped an elk today with my 50 cal using a roundball with 90 grains ffg. Only advice- don’t overthink it. It’s super fun

 

[Mr. UML]

I only hunt large game with muzzleloaders even though I have a ton of other options. For your situation, CVA Optima V2 + 70grains of Blackhorn 209 + Crush Rib Sabots + .461 Parker Extremes and you'll shit on anything out there within 200 yards.