How much to spend on a new rifle?

[nhenry]

I am another vote for Tikka. Working in the shop I have regular access to everything from $400 Mossberg Patriots (junk) up to $7000 Proof rifles and have shot most of them. Tikka T3 line and the Bergaras represent the best value by far. The deciding factors for me were 1) NOT a fan of the Rem 700 style action and 90 deg bolt throw. 2) Weight- comparable models are noticeably lighter in the Tikka 3) Stock trigger in Tikka is EXCELLENT and 4) the ability to get a vertical grip with a palm swell for $15. Also, I got the Roughtech package which gave me an upgraded stock, fluted and threaded barrel, fluted bolt, oversized bolt handle and muzzle break for an extra $250. Had a buddy cerakote mine barrel and action in burnt bronze. Pro tip....pick up the Mountain Tactical 0 MOA rail from tikkaperfomance.com as it comes with the integrated recoil lug as well.

Along with that, I'd pick up the MTN Tactical bottom metal as well. It really makes it feel 500 bucks nicer.

 

[OntarioHunter]

Yep.


When I got a new rifle I wanted something that was light weight (obviously not the 11.5lbs James Bond ^ is toting around the corn field), weather resistant so either stainless or cerakoted, ambidextrous (I'm cross eye dominate), and threaded (muzzle break or a can at some point). Now my use case was a bunch of near term backpack hunting in Alaska and some of those would change if I was hunting other states and species.


Weatherby is ok if you get their left-handed rifles, but they only come (usually) in the weatherby calibers. They suck for crosseye shooting as they are super "handed" rifles.

I've found that Model 70/Mauser actions suck to shoot cross eye dominate as well, kinda a combination of being hard to work, weird safety, smacking your hand off hand with the bolt. They are ok if you get the left-handed versions but are hard to find.

The best actions for crosseye dominate shooters are Browning, Savage, Tikka, and then Remington 700. The tang saftey on the browning and save is great, the Tikka is super smooth and easy to work.

Generally speaking synthetical stock rifles will be better for ambidextrous shooting.

For me in the end, it was between a browning xbolt and a tikka, and I went with the tikka.

I think if I was looking for an all purpose rifle that's mostly getting used for whitetail, but would work great for occasional western hunts, I would look at the tikka roughtech.

Curious as to why a right-hand bolt would "smack" the "off hand" of a left-hand shooter? The off hand (right hand) for left-hand shooter should be gripping the fore end and nowhere near the bolt handle. Shooting hand should be on opposite side of the rifle. Perhaps the shooting left hand gets pinched between bolt and scope when opening the chamber?

 

[Deleted member 28227]

I don't think Tikka makes the roughtech in lefty configuration, but the plain jane T3x Lite would do just fine for his needs.

Correct only the lite, superlite and hunter are lefty. I got a right handed veil and shoot it lefty.

 

[nhenry]

Curious as to why a right-hand bolt would "smack" the "off hand" of a left-hand shooter? The off hand (right hand) for left-hand shooter should be gripping the fore end and nowhere near the bolt handle. Shooting hand should be on opposite side of the rifle. Perhaps the shooting left hand gets pinched between bolt and scope when opening the chamber?

When gripping a traditional rifle grip, your thumb curls over the top, right in front of the comb. You don't want to adjust your grip when cycling, so a right handed bolt would go over the top of that. Sometimes, the grip is higher so the bolt smacks your thumb. It's avoidable by getting a lefty bolt.

 

[FairWeather]

Lots of useful opinions here, thank you all. sounds like I’m ok with my Savage, and the scope and rings need updated more than anything. To my eyes, I thought the Nikon was about as clear as it can get, but I suppose I haven’t tried very many optics in my life. I’ll look into these leupold vx-3’s. They’re cheaper than a new rifle, so that helps keep the mrs. happy.

I’m curious what people’s takes on the Henry long ranger are? I like the look of it, and it seems like it’s a bit heavier than my savage, which would help tame the recoil. Something I wouldn’t mind, as a box through my Savage usually leaves me with a mild bruise the next day.

 

[OntarioHunter]

When gripping a traditional rifle grip, your thumb curls over the top, right in front of the comb. You don't want to adjust your grip when cycling, so a right handed bolt would go over the top of that. Sometimes, the grip is higher so the bolt smacks your thumb. It's avoidable by getting a lefty bolt.

Interesting. What brand of rifle has a bolt handle positioned that far back? I just checked my Springfield and no way could my left thumb reach either the dropped wing safety at the back of the bolt or bolt handle during recoil when shooting left-handed. Not even close. I'm just over six feet tall and have well proportioned hands. A giant might have issues. I suspect most Mauser style rifles are the same.

 

[nhenry]

Interesting. What brand of rifle has a bolt handle positioned that far back? I just checked my Springfield and no way could my left thumb reach either the dropped wing safety at the back of the bolt or bolt handle during recoil when shooting left-handed. Not even close. I'm just over six feet tall and have well proportioned hands. A giant might have issues. I suspect most Mauser style rifles are the same.

Remington 700s, Winchester 70s, Ruger 77s, and others I have not tested. Those are the ones I know about.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Lots of useful opinions here, thank you all. sounds like I’m ok with my Savage, and the scope and rings need updated more than anything. To my eyes, I thought the Nikon was about as clear as it can get, but I suppose I haven’t tried very many optics in my life. I’ll look into these leupold vx-3’s. They’re cheaper than a new rifle, so that helps keep the mrs. happy.

I’m curious what people’s takes on the Henry long ranger are? I like the look of it, and it seems like it’s a bit heavier than my savage, which would help tame the recoil. Something I wouldn’t mind, as a box through my Savage usually leaves me with a mild bruise the next day.

A couple of recoil ideas for your savage that will each cost less than $40 - you can get a better screw-on buttpad (e.g., limbsaver), a slip-on buttpad, add weight to your stock with some lead shot and silicon caulk, or use a "past" shoulder recoil pad when at the range (since hunting you will only have one or two shots).

 

[nhenry]

I’m curious what people’s takes on the Henry long ranger are? I like the look of it, and it seems like it’s a bit heavier than my savage, which would help tame the recoil. Something I wouldn’t mind, as a box through my Savage usually leaves me with a mild bruise the next day.

I owned one in 6.5 creedmoor that didn't feed that well and would never get under 1.25" groups. I have a buddy with the 308 that'll shoot .05" groups with hunting ammo though.

 

[Beignet]

Do you want a new rifle? If so, what are you trying to accomplish with it?

The base/package Savage 11 .308 is a good gun, although not as smooth as a Tikka, Browning, or Bergara. On the Savage, keep an eye on extraction issues (easy DIY fix that can be done cheaply in 5 minutes by replacing the extractor) and light primer strikes (15 minute fix by replacing the firing pin spring, which is also inexpensive), but other than that it should be a solid gun.

Agreed that the scope, base, and rings should be replaced with something a little clearer and more reliable. Those rings are the cheapest of the cheap. I have had cheap rings break on me in the field, and that will immediately ruin a hunt. A DNZ base/ring combo setup is ugly and rock solid, or you may prefer a quality pic rail and rings for more mounting flexibility. Like VG said, the scope can be moved to another gun if you decide to go that way in the future.

Whatever you do, practice and get to know your rifle. A .308 is pretty easy on the shoulder, readily available, and plenty powerful for most NA game to sane ranges if quality ammo is used. If you decide to change cartridges then you can rebarrel your Savage or buy another gun, but handle and shoot several before getting into a Ford/Chevy type of debate with a forum or gun club. What fits you best may not fit someone else the same way, so comfort and felt recoil are relative.

This is pretty sound advice. I’ve got a Savage in ‘06 with a Nikon BDC scope that I’d been convinced I needed to replace for ages, but am coming to realize that it shoots just fine. Already did an extractor upgrade from Sharp Shooter Supply (they fly out now, well worth the ~$22), and cleaned up the firing pin to alleviate the occasional light strikes (well over 100 rounds later and not one misfire). Pillar and action bedded a Boyd’s stock (no big accuracy changes there, it’s still a MOA gun, but one with a nice stiffer stock). Next up will be better rings and optics.

Still looking around at Tikkas (which can use some of their own upgrades insofar as I know) and hoping to stumble across an old Howa Alpine, but those will probably be next year acquisitions at this point.

 

[SC Living Outdoors]

Another vote for Tikka. Put some good glass on top of it and you wont be disappointed.

 

[noharleyyet]

Unless you find and steal a closet 700, a grand is the ante...from there it's an iceberg of expense.

 

[shannerdrake]

Determine your max budget and take it from there. Then divide that by half and spend one half on scope and mount and the other half on the rifle. I'd rather have a $500 scope on a $200 gun than a $200 scope on a $500 gun and whoa to the shooter who spends $30 on rings!!!

Ammo is extra, but worth spending. I bought a Weatherby Vanguard which at first I didn't like because it didn't group like a thought it should. Then I bought 8 boxes of ammo with bullets I would happily hunt with and tried them all out. It was amazing seeing what it did and did not like. 100 yard groups from .7in-3.5in.

Looking back that was the best $300 I ever spent and arguably more important that the rifle OR the scope.

 

[OntarioHunter]

First let's not confuse preference for "can't" I killed my first bear with a model 70, second I'm operating a rifle not as intended so is what it is.

Being crosseye dominate this is what I've found works best for me.

On a follow up shot I keep the back end of the rifle stabilized in my shoulder, my left(trigger) hand stays on the grip and my right (off hand) works the bolt.

Typically I hold the rifle with my thumb off the stock to allow the bolt to clear, but the model 70 and Mauser actions tend to require a lot more force to work and I have to grip more to reload. In the moment it's not really a conscious decision and I find every time I take a model 70 in the field I look down and find my hand bleeding.

View attachment 217253View attachment 217255

Probably some downsides to shooting like this but typically I have quick follow-up shots as my check stays on the stock the whole time. This is off-hand... you can imagine it's smoother on a pack.

My BIL has a couple of mauser's and I would never take those hunting, the angle of the bolt, the drag my style creates... it's just a CF when I shoot them.

If you notice in Saving Private Ryan, Private Jackson shoots lefty on a 1903A4 and has to actually reach over the action with his hand to deal with this issue.

Point being... tikka is a great ambidextrous platform.

Okay, I see what you are talking about. I think for fast followup shots a left-hander using a right-handed gun is pretty much SOL. If the gun is extremely light, he may be able to hang onto it at the pistol grip with left hand while working the bolt right-handed, but as you can see from the video, even with a light rifle, the muzzle is weaving around. On my gun, even if I could get the bolt to clear my left thumb during cycling (and it won't), there is absolutely no way my cheek is staying on the gun or the muzzle staying anywhere remotely on track (the gun weighs 9 lbs and is balanced just ahead of the magazine box). I do remember the sniper from Pvt Ryan working the action with his left hand ... from a solid rest. I seem to recall his head came off the gun while he was cycling.

For a right-hand bolt to clear a left crossing thumb would require a significant drop at the pistol grip. I think I would be concerned about adverse recoil from a stock constructed like that. If the comb isn't raised, better go with the lowest rings/bases available.

I don't often require fast follow up shots. Even for birds I am a relatively slow shooter. But I still take triples on a regular basis (compared to Field and Stream's shotgun editor who hasn't done it once). Perhaps only once in my life have I needed to shoot a rifle fast. In Africa I drilled a gemsbuck through the heart incoming at about fifteen yards and then again through the shoulder and heart as she ran by at twelve yards. But gemsbuck very often are dangerous and that one was way too close to wait for it to die. I did not stay on the gun while cycling. But I shoot a ton of skeet and clays low gun, even follow up shots, so I have the basics down for remounting and firing at moving targets.

 

[JohnCushman]

I have a Ruger American in .308 topped with a VX3 that cloverleafs shots at 100 yards with Federal Fusions. My Howa 30-06 topped with a VX2 shoots almost one hole with handloads. Don't get caught up on price. Get optics. Your rifle might like one brand of ammo and not the other, so leave some money in your budget for different ammo selections.

 

[Brian in Montana]

Just get a very standard, basic, left-handed T3X hunter lite. You will not be sad you did. Can't go wrong with a .308 either.

 

[Don Fischer]

Lots of useful opinions here, thank you all. sounds like I’m ok with my Savage, and the scope and rings need updated more than anything. To my eyes, I thought the Nikon was about as clear as it can get, but I suppose I haven’t tried very many optics in my life. I’ll look into these leupold vx-3’s. They’re cheaper than a new rifle, so that helps keep the mrs. happy.

I’m curious what people’s takes on the Henry long ranger are? I like the look of it, and it seems like it’s a bit heavier than my savage, which would help tame the recoil. Something I wouldn’t mind, as a box through my Savage usually leaves me with a mild bruise the next day.

Your scope and rings need upgraded? Why is that? Shooter's have a bad habit of bashing products they don't like. I have several Nikon scopes and no complaints! Should the need actually arise to need to upgrade, you can do it if something goes wrong with the scope you have. Someone is gonna say the scope could give it up with very bad timing. True but then so could any other scope! I've never owned a Savage rifle not for a reason just never got around to getting one. Read lot's of good and bad about them and if I decided to try one, I would! Inexpensive could be anything from a Mossberg up. BTW, I decided to get a Patriot just to try out. Now I have two! I do have a problem with the trigger guard. Tighten down the rear action screw to much and you'll destroy that trigger guard; Mossberg will give you another for free! You can also find a good price on 700 ADL's at times. Ugly plastic stock and mine didn't shoot for beans. Took it apart and completely re-bedded it and it shoots great. Doesn't look bad with the 700 ADL wood stock I found for it either. Actually looking for a rifle is kind of like looking for a wife. You see the one you want and you can either afford it or not. If not simply keep looking till you find the one YOU like. Shoot you already have your Savage and I didn't hear you complain about it!

As to cartridge, pretty much what ever trips your trigger! Your 308 with a proper load and properly placed bullet will do pretty much anything a 300 mag will do. That is it just kills stuff. With that in mind when thinking of a cartridge I would look smaller than your 308. Maybe a 243? Give you something easier to shoot than the 308 but still a useable option for deer! It's kind of like the 308. Use the right bullet and place it right and something is gonna die!

As for a scope, lot of good scopes out there just depends on how much you want to spend. My 22 mag has a k4 Weaver I found somewhere for next to nothing. Wouldn't phase me one bit to remove it and put on any of my CF rifles! Two of my rifles have very old Denver/Redfield scopes and I have a couple Leupold/Redfields also. The Denver scopes I got new around 1972, still work fine. Have an old Bushnell Banner on my 25-06, entry level scope about 50 yrs old and still doing the job. Got a new Vortex and put it on a 243. First Vortex and nothing bad so far. Thread on here slamming the Vortex a great deal. Only way you'll ever know for sure is try one. Can't wait till a few guy's have trouble with one of those $1500 scopes and see how they get trashed.

Bottom line is there's only one guy gonna have to live with what ever you choose, that would be you. Look at all you can and decide what YOU'D like to have, rifle, cartridge and scope. Could be you might have a problem down the road but that could happen with someone else's pet product also. And likely what ever you get is gonna last a lot longer than you need. Down the road before it gives up on you you'll replace it just to get something new, your looking to replace your 308 now aren't you. It broke? That's all those safe queens you hear about! Rifle's and scopes made today I believe are the best ever! And I say that having a 30-06 custom built from 1945! Still a great gun but if it didn't have special meaning to me I'd have sold years ago! In the end, you'll listen to all the suggestion and get something you like! What do you say to the guy that thinks you got junk?

 

[Don Fischer]

First let's not confuse preference for "can't" I killed my first bear with a model 70, second I'm operating a rifle not as intended so is what it is.

Being crosseye dominate this is what I've found works best for me.

On a follow up shot I keep the back end of the rifle stabilized in my shoulder, my left(trigger) hand stays on the grip and my right (off hand) works the bolt.

Typically I hold the rifle with my thumb off the stock to allow the bolt to clear, but the model 70 and Mauser actions tend to require a lot more force to work and I have to grip more to reload. In the moment it's not really a conscious decision and I find every time I take a model 70 in the field I look down and find my hand bleeding.

View attachment 217253View attachment 217255

Probably some downsides to shooting like this but typically I have quick follow-up shots as my check stays on the stock the whole time. This is off-hand... you can imagine it's smoother on a pack.

My BIL has a couple of mauser's and I would never take those hunting, the angle of the bolt, the drag my style creates... it's just a CF when I shoot them.

If you notice in Saving Private Ryan, Private Jackson shoots lefty on a 1903A4 and has to actually reach over the action with his hand to deal with this issue.

Point being... tikka is a great ambidextrous platform.

Ta know the problem with shooting a right hand rifle left handed and quick follow up shot's is fairly easy to over come. practice more and choose you shots with care. Take out the majority of game with the first shot and the quick follow up shot can generally be avoided!

 

[Deleted member 28227]

For a right-hand bolt to clear a left crossing thumb would require a significant drop at the pistol grip. I think I would be concerned about adverse recoil from a stock constructed like that. If the comb isn't raised, better go with the lowest rings/bases available.

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[Don Fischer]

Okay, I see what you are talking about. I think for fast followup shots a left-hander using a right-handed gun is pretty much SOL. If the gun is extremely light, he may be able to hang onto it at the pistol grip with left hand while working the bolt right-handed, but as you can see from the video, even with a light rifle, the muzzle is weaving around. On my gun, even if I could get the bolt to clear my left thumb during cycling (and it won't), there is absolutely no way my cheek is staying on the gun or the muzzle staying anywhere remotely on track (the gun weighs 9 lbs and is balanced just ahead of the magazine box). I do remember the sniper from Pvt Ryan working the action with his left hand ... from a solid rest. I seem to recall his head came off the gun while he was cycling.

For a right-hand bolt to clear a left crossing thumb would require a significant drop at the pistol grip. I think I would be concerned about adverse recoil from a stock constructed like that. If the comb isn't raised, better go with the lowest rings/bases available.

I don't often require fast follow up shots. Even for birds I am a relatively slow shooter. But I still take triples on a regular basis (compared to Field and Stream's shotgun editor who hasn't done it once). Perhaps only once in my life have I needed to shoot a rifle fast. In Africa I drilled a gemsbuck through the heart incoming at about fifteen yards and then again through the shoulder and heart as she ran by at twelve yards. But gemsbuck very often are dangerous and that one was way too close to wait for it to die. I did not stay on the gun while cycling. But I shoot a ton of skeet and clays low gun, even follow up shots, so I have the basics down for remounting and firing at moving targets.

I remember watching a guy shoot skeet with a pump while I was stationed in Germany. He'd shoot, shuck the MTY with his left hand and catch it coming out of the chamber with his right hand and drop it in his shell pouch on his belt. In the mean time he chamber the second round with his left hand and right hand was back about the same time. shoot he even did that shooting doubles. Amazing what you can do if you put the time into learning. This guy simply did not miss!