New rifle, barrel, or cut and thread existing

For a collar with no adapter, I need an O.D. of .65" or greater. A standard Tikka barrel is .62" at 24". You probably have smaller threads on the barrel itself, judging by the length, probably 9/16-24, and 5/8-24 threads on the end of your adapter.
No adapter. 5/8x24 threaded about twice as long as normal with a collar loctited in place for a shoulder. Maximum thread diameter is .625” and the barrel diameter before threading was .635 or slightly more. Works great without any tolerance stacking.
 
If you like the rifle as it is, has light recoil, is accurate, you have developed a good load for it… leave it alone. If you want to join the suppressor crowd, invest in s suppressed rifle.
 
What's the general rule for not needing a shoulder? I'm looking at buying a 6.5 Creed for my daughter that has a 1/2 threaded muzzle brake that I will remove for the Scythe. How much shoulder should I safely have?

I've got several rifles with light weight threaded barrels that seem to work fine, but would like to make sure I have enough shoulder for long term use.
 
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What's the general rule for not needing a shoulder? I'm looking at buying a 6.5 Creed for my daughter that has a 1/2 threaded muzzle brake that I will remove for the Scythe. How much shoulder should I safely have?

I've got several rifles with light weight threaded barrels that seem to work fine, but would like to make sure I have enough shoulder for long term use.

Just get an adapter and you will be fine
 
No adapter. 5/8x24 threaded about twice as long as normal with a collar loctited in place for a shoulder. Maximum thread diameter is .625” and the barrel diameter before threading was .635 or slightly more. Works great without any tolerance stacking.
That works! I'll keep doing it my way though. I'm not going to rely on loctite alone, without at least some kind to shoulder for the collar to register against.

Also, the way I do the permanent adapters, there's no tolerance stacking either.
 
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Far be it from me to tell you not to tinker with something, but if that were my gun and it shot great, I'd buy another one to shoot suppressed. Nice knowing you always have that one ready to go if you need it.
 
Far be it from me to tell you not to tinker with something, but if that were my gun and it shot great, I'd buy another one to shoot suppressed. Nice knowing you always have that one ready to go if you need it.

Everyone is different. I've threaded some of mine and some I will never thread. I've got a 78yo friend who just threaded his one and only big game rifle he's had since the 60s as he had no desire to buy a new one. A pre 64 M70 in .270. He asked my what I thought after he did it and I just told him since it's a .270, why not. ;)
 
I'm debating suppressing my hunting rifle, which is a tikka t3x lite chambered in 308.

I'm not sure what to do. Cut and thread existing barrel, replace the barrel, or get another rifle?

I hate the idea of modifying something that functions flawlessly. But it might be the most cost affective avenue.

I do not own multiple big game hunting rifles. The only other hunting rigs I have is an ar for yotes and a 22 for gophers.

So if I were to opt for another rifle should I consider a different caliber? I hesitate here as well because I reload for 308. I have some good loads worked up for it. Bascally the 308 just works.

Thoughts? Thanks Pete
I agree the .308 is a great caliber. I’ve been shooting a BAR in the .308 for 20 years and it has preformed well and never let me. Recently bought a Ruger AR10 in the same caliber & it shoots extremely well.
 
I don't know squat about suppressor's but if the thing recoils to much I'd say get a new rifle! Suppressors do two thing's for sure. First they have to change the balance of the rifle hanging the weight on the end of the barrel. Then, IMO, they take what might be a good looking rifle and turn it ugly looking! You said, I think, You only have the one rifle, get another rifle in a lessor cartridge firing a lighter bullet even if it's the same case. Or try a recoil pad! L just can't help ti think the extra wight on the front of the barrel is gonna change how the rifle shoots and handles. new rifles today are spendy but so is gunsmithing. But a rifle that discourages you I humbling at best. I had a 243 well two of them. Never hunted deer much with one even though I had good results with it. had my 700 barreled to a 260 Rem with a 22" Lilja barrel and it's handy as ever and to 260 hoots the pants off that 243! Down side is it cost my $800! Took an extra 25-06 Rem in a Rem 700 action years ago and had it barreled to a 6.5xx06 with a Shilen barrel. it also cost me $800 but since doing it I've never reached for my other 25-06 again except as a loaner. If your not a fussy shooter, I'd suggest you trade the 308 in on a 6.5 Creedmoore or a 7mm-08. Lighter bullet's is gonna cut down on recoil some and if you get a lighter rifle, also cut down some. Then again if it's not recoil but noise you want to control, ear plug's aren't that expensive and should work well. have to admit 308 is an all time favorite with me, but if I wasn't happy with it for some reason I'd disown it! My 260 is not only pleasant to shoot but it is also now one of my most accurate rifles using 140gr Speer HC! have never shot a 7mm-08 but shot a 7x57 a lot years ago and that 7x57 with 154gr Hornadys wasn't bad to shoot at all so I suspect the 7mm-08 isn't either.

Turning shooting into a chore doesn't help increase enthusiasm much. If its just the noise, most anything you get is gonna come with noise and you will probably end up wanting a suppressor so just get ear plugs and give your 308 another chance.
 

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