Handloading with Lead Free Bullets

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

All,

I think I am going to make the switch to lead free bullets after doing some research on how much our lead bullets break apart while traveling through a deer.


With that being said, what are some important things to know before reloading them? List of things I can think of:

• Obviously follow the grain requirements for powder on the specific bullet
• Is there a rule of thumb for picking the weight? I am planning on keeping with my standard 165g for my 0.308 (all around bullet I use from 'Lopes to elk)
• Any particular brand better than the others? I am leaning toward Barnes after looking around a little bit on the web
• Is overpressure easier to encounter with lead free bullets?
• Has anyone noticed a larger difference in accuracy of lead free? Currently I'm shooting about 0.35" center to center at 100yd
• When seating the bullet, many have those large groves on the side of them, does it matter where you seat the bullet with respect to the groves?

Sorry to pepper a lot of questions, it just seems like its a slightly different beast from the lead I'm used to slinging.


Thanks in advance

 

[MThuntr]

1) Use load data, if available, for the bullet. Nosler and Barnes both offer free load data same with most powder manufacturers.
2) Typically the rule of thumb for switching to non-lead is to drop down in bullet weight to get velocity out of the so they perform better. That being said I'd try 165s before dropping to 150s particularly if you're planning to hunt elk.
3) Brand preference is all over the place. I suggest trying different bullets including the expensive ones like Hammer and Cutting Edge.
4) Yes you can encounter higher pressure faster. Follow the manufacturers reloading recommendations and work up from minimum load to find your max. Adjusting seating depth may help find the perfect load.
5) No difference in accuracy that I've ever noticed. You can end up with rifling being too slow to stabilize non-lead bullets so match your twist with bullet weights recommended
6) Ignore the grooves...non-lead bullets tend to like a bit of "jump" to rifling. I tend to start with bullet manufacturer's recommendations and adjust.

 

[N2TRKYS]

For a .308 Win, the 130 grain TTSX would be bad medicine. The Barnes will retain nearly 100% of its weight, whereas, a Partition/Accubond will be in the 60% retained weight range.

Don't let the lighter bullets scare you.

 

[Curvebow]

What Mtn Hunter said! Also - yes, since the bullets are longer and need higher velocity to expand reliably, choose one a bit lighter than you would normally use. Also, from the "interweb", its said that they prefer a very short jump to the lands, or may even like it best if they're touching the lands. Obviously, proceed with caution....

 

[Pelican]

Barnes recommends seating TSX and TTSX .05 off the lands. That distance from the lands worked fine for me.

 

[Bluejeep]

I would take copious notes when reloading and during testing. copper bullets cost almost double lead ones.

When working up my load, I started in the middle of the recommended powder charge weight and then went up from there. You need the speed for proper expansio

 

[cahunter805]

I’d run the 130TTSX over Varget or BLC2 to start.

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

Thanks for all the info. We'll see what is in stock at the store for bullet sizes and types. I currently like BLC2 for my gun, so that would be a nice move to lead free if I can continue to use it!

 

[VikingsGuy]

I use 150gn TTSX in my .308. Need for velocity and effect of less bullet fragmentation make it as effective as traditional lead 165 in my opinion. 165gn TTSX is better choice for 300WinMag. Listen to Pelican regarding seating depth, everything I have read and personally experienced is that loading too close to lands is where the pressure spike comes with copper. I set max hunting distance at point where load drops below 1999 FPS to ensure expansion. For my current .308/150ttsx/2850fps that is 405 yards at 3500 ft above sea level. Which is perfect for me, as I currently set 400y as a personal hunting max.

 

[Deleted member 28227]

copper bullets cost almost double lead ones.

That depends, yes if you are using cheap bullets and no it's actually cheaper if you are loading premium hunting bullets.

I spend $20 per box of 50 less using copper than when I was reloading lead. (Swift A-frames --> Nosler Etips, Hammer bullets would be almost the exact same cost)

 

[Bluejeep]

I was using Sierra game Kings at about $35 for box of 100. I swapped to Barnes TTSX. Those cost me about the same, but Its a box of 50 (so really double the money)

 

[BWALKER77]

I'd run the Barnes 150gr TTSX started at .05 of the lands with Varget powder.
I have used all the monos from the big bullet companies and the Barnes are the easiest to get to shoot for me.

 

[blueridge]

submoashooting.com has sample 12 packs (TTSX, LRX, E-TIP), and shipping is only $5.95 (free over $75). I am currently in the process of working up a copper bullet and load for my 7mm-08 and found it nice not to have to buy a full box of each for testing. Just fyi.

 

[GlockZ]

For the 308, the 130- 150gr Barnes TSX or TTSX would be more than sufficient for your needs. I have never reloaded the Nosler brand of mono's, but i have reloaded the Barnes and the Hornady GMX in various calibers, and have had good performance and results from both.

 

[Dougfirtree]

I'd concur with others who said that the 150 grain version would probably be a great choice for the .308. However, if you want to go heavier and you're leaning towards Barnes, I'd go with the 168 instead of the 165. Better BC and more importantly, the bullet is designed to expand at lower velocities than the 165 is. My experience with all monomials is that seating depth makes a huge difference in accuracy. Good luck!

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

Well I went to Scheels and the options were either 150 or 168g with a disclaimer to have a faster twist than 1:11, which my gun uses a 1:10 twist I believe but may be 1:12 depending on when it was manufactured. With that in mind I picked up a box of Barnes 150 TTSX as a safe bet.

I'm all ready to start loading up, then I find out my scale is failing to calibrate... Gotta love technology! I'll update what I find out at the range after I figure out my scale situation.

 

[JLS]

150 TSX is perfect for the .308. Seat your bullets 0.050" of the lands. Don't be afraid to try magnum primers either. Recommendations for Hammer Bullets are to always use magnum primers. I've also used them with Barnes TSX, particularly for ball powders. I use Superperformance and CCI 250s in my .243.

Barnes shows Varget as the most accurate powder with that bullet. I've always had good luck following their recommendations.

 

[Bigjav]

if you're going to start reloading with lead free you need to be comfortable with ballistics charts, and either have access to a chronograph or a shooting range long enough to be able to calculate your muzzle velocity. Contact the bullet manufacturer you end up choosing and ask them about the minimum velocity for reliable terminal performance for hunting and use your ballistics charts to see what range that's at and stay below that range.

 

[jryoung]

Most everything above has worked well for me. Follow basic reloading safety procedures and you should be good to go. For each of the three barnes bullets and nosler .050 off the lands has worked well.

They're just like any other bullet to get a perfect load, sometimes it works perfect the first time, other require some tweaking. I haven't notice any accuracy issues across several rifles and calibers, they've all shot great.

Conservatively staying above 2,000fps is ideal for any of the major manufacturers. For the lathe turned bullets you can get down to 1,800 (again conservatively).

 

[NVDesertHunter]

Reloading non-lead bullets are fairly similar to loading lead. As people have stated, follow the manual and try different powders, primers, bullets until you find the right accuracy.

The major difference is having non-lead bullets seated off the lands. Most lead bullets prefer to be close to the lands. Seating non-lead bullets on the lands will drastically increase chamber pressure and can cause problems.