44hunter45
Well-known member
RCBS also has a great Youtube channel.
+1 on stuck case puller. Everyone sticks one and usually at the worst possible time. Having the right tool is the best way to get the case out without scratching up the die.
Have extra de-capping pins on hand all the time.
Cleaning brass -
Tumbling is cheap. I tumble before I start, then after I size. This prevents scratched dies. I also wear cotton gloves after my last tumble. The gloves will turn greenish gray over time, but they are keeping your skin oil of the brass.
Lubing -
If you get dimples around the shoulder of the case, you are using too much. The cases are still safe to use. The dimples will fireform out.
Do not forget to lube the inside of the case for bottle necked cartridges. This prolongs case life and makes the upstoke of the ram easier and quieter.
Trimming matters. -
You need a way to measure cases. At least keep them below the published trim length. If you are looking for precision, trim them carefully all the same. ( I then sort them by weight, too)
Trim AFTER you re-size. I use the Hornady cam lock trimmer for some things and RCBS trim to length hardened filing dies for others. If you use the trim does, don't forget to lube!
Crimping -
Just because your bullets have a cannelure, don't feel you need to crimp, especially in bolt action rifles. You find lead secanted (tipped) bullets take a heck of beating in the magazine, but the bullets rarely change seating depth.
The cannelure is very likely not placed at the actual best location for your rifle's desired seating depth. The exception to this is loads for dangerous game, which I feel should always be crimped.
Powder selection -
Google "smokeless powder burn rate chart." There are several out there, but I usually download the Hodgdon color coded one at least twice a year and keep it handy. Western Powders has a good one as well.
Cool add ons -
There are things you don't HAVE to have, but I really find make my ammo better.
L.E. Wilson Headspace/Case gages - check your re-sized cases and finished ammo with these. If they fit in the gage, they will fit in a SAAMI spec dimension chamber. This allows you to check your ammo safely without running it through the firearm.
They are super when you need to figure out why a load has chambering issues.
Lee Factory Crimp Dies - If you are using a crimp, these are the way to go. They are crazy cheap. They squeeze the crimp in without putting any downward force on the case. This prevents many case deformations that lead to feeding issues.
C.O.A.L. measuring system. - Hornady's modified case system seems good. I do the same thing with an old case and a cleaning rod.
Flash vent de-burring tool - I like the RCBS one. You buy the tool once and then the pilots you need. You only need to do each case once for it's entire life.
+1 on stuck case puller. Everyone sticks one and usually at the worst possible time. Having the right tool is the best way to get the case out without scratching up the die.
Have extra de-capping pins on hand all the time.
Cleaning brass -
Tumbling is cheap. I tumble before I start, then after I size. This prevents scratched dies. I also wear cotton gloves after my last tumble. The gloves will turn greenish gray over time, but they are keeping your skin oil of the brass.
Lubing -
If you get dimples around the shoulder of the case, you are using too much. The cases are still safe to use. The dimples will fireform out.
Do not forget to lube the inside of the case for bottle necked cartridges. This prolongs case life and makes the upstoke of the ram easier and quieter.
Trimming matters. -
You need a way to measure cases. At least keep them below the published trim length. If you are looking for precision, trim them carefully all the same. ( I then sort them by weight, too)
Trim AFTER you re-size. I use the Hornady cam lock trimmer for some things and RCBS trim to length hardened filing dies for others. If you use the trim does, don't forget to lube!
Crimping -
Just because your bullets have a cannelure, don't feel you need to crimp, especially in bolt action rifles. You find lead secanted (tipped) bullets take a heck of beating in the magazine, but the bullets rarely change seating depth.
The cannelure is very likely not placed at the actual best location for your rifle's desired seating depth. The exception to this is loads for dangerous game, which I feel should always be crimped.
Powder selection -
Google "smokeless powder burn rate chart." There are several out there, but I usually download the Hodgdon color coded one at least twice a year and keep it handy. Western Powders has a good one as well.
Cool add ons -
There are things you don't HAVE to have, but I really find make my ammo better.
L.E. Wilson Headspace/Case gages - check your re-sized cases and finished ammo with these. If they fit in the gage, they will fit in a SAAMI spec dimension chamber. This allows you to check your ammo safely without running it through the firearm.
They are super when you need to figure out why a load has chambering issues.
Lee Factory Crimp Dies - If you are using a crimp, these are the way to go. They are crazy cheap. They squeeze the crimp in without putting any downward force on the case. This prevents many case deformations that lead to feeding issues.
C.O.A.L. measuring system. - Hornady's modified case system seems good. I do the same thing with an old case and a cleaning rod.
Flash vent de-burring tool - I like the RCBS one. You buy the tool once and then the pilots you need. You only need to do each case once for it's entire life.
