Gear question

[Preach]

As I remember Pray is about 7000 ft. Mid November is --- cold. I would suggest airbob pacs, felt lined,14 in tops. Buy an extra set of liners so you have dry feet every day. Order them from Hoffmans in Kellogg, Idaho and if possible have 5 golf cleats put in the instep for those nasty 3 inch lodgepole sliders that lay in waiting under the snow. The price is about $200. They will give you better traction on the rocks than conventional boots. While your wife will lecture you on too many shoes, if you are serious about this you will need early dry weather boots, thinsolite airbobs for damp but cool weather and felt lined airbob pacs for cold snowy normal hunting weather. The good news is you don't need to break in pacs. Just get a good wool sock and a silk or nylon liner sock for next to the skin. 10,000 loggers aren't wrong and they have to live with them - daily.

Thanks for the tip. I’ve never heard of those so I’ll check them out.

 

[Preach]

Other brands than mentioned above, Hoffman, Zamberlan, Lowa, Asolo. Look for trekking/backpacking boots, get them with a full or partial rand if you plan on using them a lot.

Thanks for the heads up but I’m not sure what a full or partial rand is...

 

[Preach]

The only boots I own that are insulated are my Mickey mouse boots for goose hunting and ice fishing. All my big game hunting is done in uninsulated full leather lowas that are waterproof. In August/September I run a really light hiking sock with a liner. Once the weather turns and it is cold and snowy I run a thicker wool socks with gaiters. If I am moving my feet never get cold and if I plan on sitting to glass for long periods I'll carry insulated booties that go over my boots. My feet do run hot though so i have never had an issue on colder hunts.

Thanks for the reply. I’ve thought about putting a pair of artic shield boot covers in my pack for glassing times.

 

[JLS]

Thanks for the heads up but I’m not sure what a full or partial rand is...

The rand is a rubber layer that is directly above the sole of the boot. Some boots have a full one and others only have a partial rand on the toe and/or heel. It protects the leather from rocks and greatly increases durability.

 

[Preach]

The rand is a rubber layer that is directly above the sole of the boot. Some boots have a full one and others only have a partial rand on the toe and/or heel. It protects the leather from rocks and greatly increases durability.

Thanks for letting me know. I’m learning something new all the time.

 

[Blaster89]

Kenetrek has an ebay store, you can get barely used returns for big discount, with 30 day returns. They often go for under $250.

In the end though you really need to try different kinds on and make sure they work for you.

I will definitely check that out. Thank you

 

[SilverDollars]

Schnee's Hunter II, 13 inch, USA(Montana) made and repairs/resoling made in Montana. This is an investment pair of boots. You can hike in them for many years and tons of miles, then get them resoled to go more miles and years. I think it is dang near impossible to get a blister in them. Unless you are a mountain climber or you are hunting in warm/hot September temps, this is the only boot to have, IMHO!!!!!

 

[JLS]

I think it is dang near impossible to get a blister in them.

Unless they don’t fit your foot.

 

[2rocky]

Hello,
I’m new to HT and this is my first post. I’m an easterner from NC that has only hunted whitetail from stands. Well, my son moved to Livingston, MT two years ago and being an avid outdoorsman began hunting big game out there. So this year I applied for a combination license and drew a tag. I’m really thankful because I miss hunting with him. We will be hunting public land near Pray in mid-November. Here’s my question and there may be others that follow. We plan on hiking several miles each day to hunt. I’m considering buying a new pair of boots I have a pair of un-insulated Oboz hiking boots. Should I just stick with those or purchase something with some insulation like 400 gram? I’m considering the Danner Pronghorn. Thanks in advance for your input. Robert

As someone who Exclusively hunts out west, I'll give my perspective.

I only own 2 pairs of Hunting boots. One uninsulated, stiff hiking boot (Meindl Comfort fit Hiker https://meindlusa.com/collections/mens-collection/products/comfort-fit®-hiker) That I wear for my Early Season Aug-Sept hunts and dry October hunts.
The other pair are insulated Pac boots that I wear in high elevation rain or snow. I've had Hoffman and now have Kenetrek Grizzly I bought in an emergency when my 10 year old rebuilt Hoffmans leaked. https://kenetrek.com/products/13-grizzly
FWIW if I had time to order them I would have reordered the Hoffmans: https://hoffmanboots.com/hoffman-outback

If I came to hunt stands with you in the winter, I'd wear the pacs for NOV/DEC. I wore them with good wool socks Steelhead fishing. If you need more support look at stiff supportive insoles like Superfeet or Curex for both.

Personally you couldn't give me a pair of Danner Pronghorns but I would wear their Classic hunter line or Elk hunters if I had to. The Thorofare is their attempt at a full rand Mountaineering boot. I'd try it on before I spent that kind of money though.

 

[shannerdrake]

I know folks like pimping their favorite brand, but it would be foolish to think you could just buy Kenetrek and they would serve as the end all be all. Buy a bunch and make sure they fit. Return the rest.

This is the best advice you will get today. You have try on lots of brands and even different sizes. Do you have an REI close? There return policy is so good and they have a good selection. They will NOT have Schnees, Kenetreks, etc, but they will have a plenty good boot.

I cannot stress the differences in boots and sizes. I have Lowa Caminos which folks love. The toe box fits me amazing, but no matter what, my heal slides. So they are a no-go. Mine have also been absolute garbage and started falling apart in less than 50 miles and have never been waterproof. That's just my experience.

I spent good money on Hanwags this year. Had them shipped from Vegas. According to the online charts and tracing my feet, I needed a 13.5. Went ahead and ordered a 14. Literally couldn't get my feet in the boot without curling up my big toe - so $22 of return shipping and a return later, still a no-go.

Right now, I have a pair of Merrill Phaserbounds. There are guys who would kick me off of this forum if they could for even mentioning Merrills. Thing is, they fit my feet incredibly well, are pushing 100 miles and have outperformed my $300 Lowas in every single way. Further i got them for $110 on a REI member sale.

In short, spend some time and money finding out what works. You can't just make a decision. My buddy is currently experiencing tremendous foot pain because we are two weeks out from leaving for our hunt and he is trying to break in a new pair of Hanwags that don't really fit his feet, but he doesn't have the time to experiment.

Here is another tip, wear another boot out on your trip. I have some all leather Merril MOAB mids that fit more comfortable than a pair of Nikes. I love them. They are waterproof and have decent support. Last year in Colorado when my Lowas failed (again) I wore the Merrills to finish the hunt and they were great. Sure they weren't a "mountain boot" and weren't ideal, but they saved the day and I shot my biggest elk and biggest deer while wearing them.

 

[Bambistew]

Schnees, Hoffman or Kentrek pack boots would be my choice for mid Nov elk hunting unless you can afford an insulated mountain boot. I've hunted and killed a lot of elk in cheaper pack boots. I remember when airbobs became a thing, it was like going in 4x4 vs hiking in flip flops.

You couldn't give me a pair of Danners. They screwed me on customer service once and never buy them again.

Mountain boots are much better for support and hiking all day, but good packs are ok too. Really would be a toss up for me. Frozen leather uninsulated boots suck. I've spent a fair amount of time in really cold Temps and after a few hours there is no sock that will keep your foot warm unless you are constantly moving. You aren't going to be constantly moving while elk hunting, or that was never my experience in killing a couple dozen.

Good luck on your hunt!

 

[44hunter45]

As I remember Pray is about 7000 ft. Mid November is --- cold. I would suggest airbob pacs, felt lined,14 in tops. Buy an extra set of liners so you have dry feet every day. Order them from Hoffmans in Kellogg, Idaho and if possible have 5 golf cleats put in the instep for those nasty 3 inch lodgepole sliders that lay in waiting under the snow. The price is about $200. They will give you better traction on the rocks than conventional boots. While your wife will lecture you on too many shoes, if you are serious about this you will need early dry weather boots, thinsolite airbobs for damp but cool weather and felt lined airbob pacs for cold snowy normal hunting weather. The good news is you don't need to break in pacs. Just get a good wool sock and a silk or nylon liner sock for next to the skin. 10,000 loggers aren't wrong and they have to live with them - daily.

Some threads never die... (See the ellipsis @wllm1313? As in, a thought left hanging, unsaid.)

I'm betting @Preach has bought some boots by now and we are still flogging this thing. Why - Because no one can resist extolling the virtues of their brand.

As others have said, everyone has their way and their favorite brand. YMMV

I think most here know I'm a Hoffman evangelist. The Hoffman's are my go-to.

- 8" or 10" leather Explorers for 10 months a year. They are so comfortable for me that I wear them around the house, to church, and out to fancy dinner.
- The 14" air bob Pacs in the snow.
- Steel spiked 14" chalked Pacs for chainsaw work and hiking in slippery wet timber. Mine are over 20 years old and have been re-soled once. (see below)

I rarely use chalks for snow. Chalks (pronounced "corks" around here - go figure) are great for traction in wet wood conditions. When in the snow or really cold, the steel spikes attract snow and stuff like tongues to a flagpole or a steel horseshoe. It builds up under your heels and can cause a turned ankle. It becomes a PITA to keep clearing your spikes all the time. The spikes are screw-in and you can swap them out for any golf spike, carbide spikes, or even screw-in air bobs. Buy the little cleat spanner wrench when you buy the boots. Buy Once, Cry Once. The carbide tipped spikes last way longer but are more expensive. I use them in high wear areas like the ball of my foot and outer rim of my heel.

Pro-tip - Use a little "never-seize" when you screw in your spikes. Always unscrew and re-lube your spikes before you store the boots at the end of winter. These easy steps will save you an expensive re-sole when they rust in.

It's really cool to go into old buildings in logging towns and see decades of spike holes in the stairs and floors.

I strongly recommend spending the time to find the right insoles, especially with the Pacs. Insoles are a really important part of keeping your feet warm, as well as preventing foot fatigue.

 

[OntarioHunter]

I agree with Diamond Hitch, two pairs of boots might be the answer at that elevation that time of year. These days you just don't know what to count on for weather. Back on the old days I hunted elk and moose with Sorel packs when tracking in snow. But they are heavy and nowadays pure junk since relocated to China. Now I hunt with insulated Muck Boots in snowy/wet weather but much lower and less precipous elevations than Pray. For one trip I'm not sure I'd spend the money for Kentrick. That's just me though. I wear the soles off expensive boots as fast as cheap ones, largely due to a short left leg causing turn-in at ankle which prematurely wears down that heel.

 

[MTLabrador]

I have Schnee’s pacs that I like when it’s really cold. They wouldn’t be my choice for doing a 10 mile day with lots of elevation gain, but for sitting and glassing or still hunting in the snow they’re great. Great traction in the snow.

I still use my uninsulated mountain boots if it’s going to be a long hiking day in the snow. In the last two years I started using Kahtoola micro spikes with them, which makes a huge difference in slick conditions.

 

[diamond hitch]

As a sidenote to 44 Hunter45, everyone in my group wears corks but each morning starts with - corks or bobs. In wet snow, the corks pack but in cold dry snow give superior traction. I hunt a lot of northside thickets in the rocks and downfall. Most of the time the slopes are 35 degrees or steeper. Corks keep me upright. That started after a day of 4 inches of snow on beargrass. Imagine a day of pushups every 10 ft.

I prefer a firm boot. To get there I put a felt insole under the felt liner.

In a lot of the country I hunt there are lots of springs on the steep hillsides. The water spreads and freezes under the snow. A friend of mine and I killed a bull and a cow in a wet meadow. He was wearing insulated leathers and I in corks. In the course of the day I watched him fall 10 or 12 times. Even the horses fell a couple times but I never fell once. I don't know wether I hate the fall or getting up the most.

Corks are heavy but you get used to them.

 

[FerZam]

My feet run hot so I just use waterproof boots.