Jamen
Well-known member
Yeah I would definitely like to learn. My spring will be pretty crazy this year looks like I will be hiring a whole new crew to work for me. But I will let you know!!
Fly Fishing Where to Start
- Thread starter Jamen
- Start date
Yeah I would definitely like to learn. My spring will be pretty crazy this year looks like I will be hiring a whole new crew to work for me. But I will let you know!!
OhHeyThereBen
Active member
I learned in WI while there was snow on the ground. I found an old fly rod, tied on a fly without a hook, and walked out to a field to practice my casts. Not exactly a ton of fun, but it's decently effective and a good excuse to get outside on a decently warm day with the water iced up.
Don't buy flies until you really get into it, like others have suggested. You can get a dozen pretty cheap on ebay. Some patterns require specifics, which is when they get harder to get. Buy a few of various patterns and colors and try them out. They may not be perfect, but I've caught plenty of fish on ebay flies. Also doesn't hurt quite a much when you get tied up in trees/bushes and need to snap them off (which, depending on where you are you might be doing a lot of while you're just starting out)
As suggested before, Tenkara rods are great. I picked one up and I know it helped me catch more fish and learn how to read water better. They're pretty cool and really easy to take along just about anywhere, too.
The one thing that really frustrated me most when I first started were tying knots. I can fish along side some pretty thick stream banks, so especially when I first started this was a nightmare until I got a good feel for my surroundings and back cast. I used to hate tying knots and changing flies, but now that I can tie them quickly, it's no trouble to try 5-10 flies at a fish (including dropper set-ups, which were a pain until I figured out the best way to tie them) until I find the right fly. That part has introduced a new 'challenge' to fly-fishing for me and has made it much more enjoyable!
As suggested before, Tenkara rods are great. I picked one up and I know it helped me catch more fish and learn how to read water better. They're pretty cool and really easy to take along just about anywhere, too.
The one thing that really frustrated me most when I first started were tying knots. I can fish along side some pretty thick stream banks, so especially when I first started this was a nightmare until I got a good feel for my surroundings and back cast. I used to hate tying knots and changing flies, but now that I can tie them quickly, it's no trouble to try 5-10 flies at a fish (including dropper set-ups, which were a pain until I figured out the best way to tie them) until I find the right fly. That part has introduced a new 'challenge' to fly-fishing for me and has made it much more enjoyable!
Irrelevant
Well-known member
50bowhunter
Active member
I defiantly suggest finding a guide, or better yet, make friends with someone that really knows what they are doing. I love fly fishing, but there are defiantly some guys out there that are "fly snobs". I fished with a guide last year and had I been new to the sport, I probably would have sold all my gear after spending the day with him. Decide what you want to get out the sport, and go from there. If simply catching fish on a different style of equipment is for you, then you don't want to learn from a super technical fly fisherman. There is certain techniques, equipment, or flies that some guys refuse to use, that could be helpful starting out.
Big challenge for beginners is knots. Sh*t - my BIL has been fishing for 50 years and I still just pull the boat over and open a beverage when he loses a rig.
If you can learn an improved clinch (flies and droppers) and a blood knot, you're good. If you are handy with knots, add a perfection loop (easy) for leader construction and general 'fixing' of stuff. Let the shop handle the stuff that gets the backing and fly line on the reel for starters.
I respectfully disagree with the Tenkara suggestions because it doesn't help you learn line/slack management, which is a big deal and what really separates fly fishing from spin casting. It IS fun and helps with casting and understanding how a bug moves through the water column to a fish, but it's only got half the equation.
RookieHunter
Member
...lots of great advice so far. Lots of great rods at Pawn Shops...sticker at the pawn is usually close to new retail, just ask and they will come off almost 40%. What rod? can't go wrong with an ECHO, Scientific Angler, TFO or Cabelas for the beginer rod. I'd Stick with a 5wt in the 8 to 8.5' range...flex? most beginer rods will be mid/flex moderate rods and there is a reason why, it's easier to cast. Buy new line...Don't have to go expensive just a plain old cortland 444 or 333 Weight Forward full floating. Be sure to line up one weight, example: If you get a 5wt rod go 6wt line it will load easier and allow you to throw some larger bugs...like streamers or beaded wooly or chrystal buggers. Don't buy any flies until you get to your destination, he local fly shop will put you on to the flies you need...expect to spend at least $50 on flies. Tell the guy at the shop what your fishing with so he doesn't load you up with stuff you can't cast or fish. You'll need Tippet material...again ask what they recommend...typically some 4 and 5x but at times you'll need 6x. This is just the tip of the iceberg, a good buddy that's been doing it for a long while will shorten the learning curve and encourage you when you are ready to give up. You'll need lots of flies...you'll loose lots just casting while first learning.
If you do find an old Fiberglass Fenwick just call me and I'll take it off your hands they are too slow and too old school to really catch fish on and enjoy.
If you do find an old Fiberglass Fenwick just call me and I'll take it off your hands they are too slow and too old school to really catch fish on and enjoy.
Yellowstoner
Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2015
- Messages
- 167
I'd definitely recommend one of the Orvis clearwater rods to start off with - they have a great warranty program (unlike Sage, which can take 2+ months to get your rod back...). I also really like the Redington beginner rods, and there's nothing at all wrong with their beginner level reels. I'd stay away from tying your own flies until you figure out the catching fish part. Start by fishing single flies - whether that's a single on the top or a single fly below a bobber - when you get tangled, remove the bobber and it'll help a ton in getting it untangled. A 9 foot 5-weight is pretty standard fare, but I'd recommend starting with a 6 weight - you'll get tangled a lot less and be able to cast a bit further right off the bat. Don't get too hung up on the back and forth casting (false casting) - try just picking up the line and putting it back down. It's been my experience that most beginners use about 50% of the strength required to properly load a rod, so don't be afraid to give it a little umph. On the contrary, most beginners try to cast about 50% FASTER than they should be - there's a definite difference between POWER and SPEED. More power, less speed is a recipe for success. Too fast and you'll likely just snap the fly right off of the line.
The casting motion itself is akin to trying to flick an apple off a flimsy stick, or paint off of a paint brush. It's a loading of the rod, and then a quicker flick forward with a hard stop.
Good luck! And feel free to PM me with any questions - I used to guide out here in Wyoming/Montana.
The casting motion itself is akin to trying to flick an apple off a flimsy stick, or paint off of a paint brush. It's a loading of the rod, and then a quicker flick forward with a hard stop.
Good luck! And feel free to PM me with any questions - I used to guide out here in Wyoming/Montana.
Yellowstoner
Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2015
- Messages
- 167
Also - in 20 years of fly fishing, I've used 6x tippet probably 5 times. Don't get too fancy with it - pick up some 4lb and 6lb florocarbon (I use P-Line) and call it good. 1/2 the price of fly shop tippet and casts better. I'd second the notion of waiting until you arrive at your destination and asking for fly patterns. NEVER buy just 1 fly of a particular pattern. I always buy flies in at least sets of 3, because invariably the one fly that's working you WILL snap off. It's better to have 3 each of 4 patterns than 12 different patterns. It also reduces your selection, and will make the shop person pick out really effective patterns, rather than just selling you stuff.
Jamen
Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the information. Today I was just passing by cabelas bargain cave and saw they had a rod and reel super cheap. So I quickly added a rod and a reel to my cart and checked out before they were gone. they said limited quantity so I didn't want to miss out.
My question is this. The rod says 4 weight for the line. And the reel says 7-8 weight for line. Can you put 4w line on that type of reel? Either way if I need to buy a different rod or a different reel I got a good deal on both.
My question is this. The rod says 4 weight for the line. And the reel says 7-8 weight for line. Can you put 4w line on that type of reel? Either way if I need to buy a different rod or a different reel I got a good deal on both.
Jamen
Well-known member
so I should either invest in a different rod or a new reel? Both I am fine with I just saw the deal so I quickly jumped on it.
Short version: You should return the reel and get one rated for 3/4 or 4/5.
For the most part, the rod itself and the balance of the entire rig is most important as a beginner (and always). Fulcrum point should be where grip meets blank in the front. I would guess with a 7/8 weight reel, yours is balanced WAY back towards the reel.
For the type of fish and fishing you've mentioned, your reel will mostly hold line. Doesn't need to be a tank-stopper with 300 yards of backing. Just needs to balance the rod.
Glad you're going down the path, though!!
If you get a 7 or 8 weight rod to go with your reel, you will enter into a world of pike and musky fishing that will build extensive musclde memory in your casting arm as you try to hook water wolves by casting huge streamers that resemble ducks and otters.
You could also get into Steelhead & Salmon fishing.
but like everyone else has said, your trout rod will be poorly balanced and you should find a 4/5 weight reel. The old Pflueger medalist reels are tanks that will last for a few lifetimes and for trout, I've never had a problem with them. Good, inexpensive reels.
You could also get into Steelhead & Salmon fishing.
but like everyone else has said, your trout rod will be poorly balanced and you should find a 4/5 weight reel. The old Pflueger medalist reels are tanks that will last for a few lifetimes and for trout, I've never had a problem with them. Good, inexpensive reels.
Jamen
Well-known member
Thanks everyone! I think I will keep the reel as well it was only $19 was suppose to be $90. And down the road get a rod to go with it. I will look for a 4/5w reel!
Jamen
Well-known member
Change in plans, Just got the confirmation email and looks like I was late to the discount party and all but one item is back ordered. So I just cancelled the order and purchased one of their combos in 5w.
Late to the party on this one. My buddy taught me how to fly fish. My first rod/reel combo was a Cabelas low end combo (Still have it) 5/6 weight. I echo what others have said, rod is most important. Reel just stores line. I use that rod for most of my warm water fishing (Panfish, walleye, northern white bass, etc.) Also works for stream trout.
For warm water flies, I like streamers. Clouser is my #1, wooly bugger is 2nd. (I have caught everything on a clouser from bluegill to walleye/northern) Trout, well I would defer to others. They frustrate me to no end. No rhyme or reason why they bite on what. (Or ignore perfect presentations)
I have a 9 weight for saltwater and carp/northerns if I am after bigger stuff.
For warm water flies, I like streamers. Clouser is my #1, wooly bugger is 2nd. (I have caught everything on a clouser from bluegill to walleye/northern) Trout, well I would defer to others. They frustrate me to no end. No rhyme or reason why they bite on what. (Or ignore perfect presentations)
I have a 9 weight for saltwater and carp/northerns if I am after bigger stuff.
devon deer
Well-known member
That sounds good to me, 5/6 weight.
Regarding Fluorocarbon, I am not a fan of it, whilst it is relatively ok for nymph/lure fishing it is not suitable for dry fly fishing as it sinks.
I find it has no elasticity, i.e. no give, so snaps off more readily than nylon/copolymer, but each to there own, just my opinion.
Cheers
Richard
Regarding Fluorocarbon, I am not a fan of it, whilst it is relatively ok for nymph/lure fishing it is not suitable for dry fly fishing as it sinks.
I find it has no elasticity, i.e. no give, so snaps off more readily than nylon/copolymer, but each to there own, just my opinion.
Cheers
Richard
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