Cartridge for 18" barrel?

[VikingsGuy]

Update: Barrel wrench received, barrel received, 4d rental go/no-go gauges ordered. We are getting close my friends.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Also, previously found 7x57 brass and 7x57AI die set.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Mar 4th update.

Got the barrel off the Tikka -- Good god are they unnecessarily tight. I never could get my woodblock insert in wheel barrel vise tight enough - even split one set. Didn't care about the factory barrel (and it was a fluted ultra-light version) so I cranked that down bare against the metal plates (the tops of the flutes created a flate plane) and it finally broke free.

Put the new barrel on and torqued to 70ftlbs. Easy peasy.

Took firing pin and ejector out of the bolt. Go gauge -- SUCCESS. The No Go gauge . . . . FAIL. Bolt still easily closed. Called the barrel vendor did some measuring of the chamber and turns out somebody put the wrong number in the CNC and they drilled the chamber 0.010" too deep. I am sending it back and they are doing it over.

A good reminder, never assume anything with firearms - always use your safety tools -- in this case the set of go/nogo gauges.

The story is still in progress.

 

[Arcola]

Bummer. Good thing you went through the correct steps. This was a C6 barrel?

 

[VikingsGuy]

Bummer. Good thing you went through the correct steps. This was a C6 barrel?

Yup. But they were super responsive, so if they fix it I won’t be too pissed.

 

[BackofBeyond]

@p_ham would they have to junk the barrel, or could they knock the .010 off the end and off the shoulder and right as rain?

Just curious.

 

[VikingsGuy]

@p_ham would they have to junk the barrel, or could they knock the .010 off the end and off the shoulder and right as rain?

Just curious.

I think that is their plan, would be good to hear from experts if there is a down side to that.

 

[p_ham]

@p_ham would they have to junk the barrel, or could they knock the .010 off the end and off the shoulder and right as rain?

Just curious.

I think that is their plan, would be good to hear from experts if there is a down side to that.

Facing .01 off the barrel face and shoulder would be a quick and easy fix. It wouldn't hurt for them to double check the rest of the work they did on that particular barrel while they've got it.

There are a few manufacturers you can buy pre chambered barrels from that are intentionally chambered deep. That way all you have to do is set the shoulder/chamber face and never touch a reamer...unless you take too much off of course!

 

[Doublegunner]

308

 

[Mainer207]

I have a model seven in 7mm-08 with an 18” barrel.

That was my first deer rifle and I still enjoy shooting it. Definitely kicks harder than my 06 Tikka just because of the lightweight and short barrel, but it’s a great gun to carry.

 

[VikingsGuy]

May 5th update:

Got the fixed barrel from Carbon6 and got the barrel on the action with anti-seize and torqued to 85ftlbs. The go/no-go gauges checked out. The next step is to do some additional inletting for the barrel. After that I have fireforming and load development.

 

[VikingsGuy]

So, build summary:

Action: Tikka T3X lite stainless
Trigger: Tikka T3X factory
Barrel: CarbonSix prefit 18" featherweight contour, 5/8"x24 threading, 1:9" twist
Chambering: 7x57AI
Stock: AG Composites carbon fiber Privateer inlet by Lee Freeman at Oregon Mountain Rifle (inlet to factory barrel dia. was done before I went with carbon barrel)
Bottom Metal: Oregon Moutain Rifle Aluminum Tikka replacement Botton Metal
Magazine: Mountain Tactical Gen 2 billet long action mag
Rail: Murphy Precision Stainless picatinny
Scope rings: 30mm Seekins Precision or Vortex Pro, which ever is lighter/looks better
Scope: Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x44 Illum. TMOA ret.
Suppressor: Gemtech Tracker
Brass: Nosler 7x57 fireformed
Primers: CCI #200 large rifle
Powder: tbd but will start with H4350
Bullet: tbd but will be the best shooting of 140gn TTSX, 139gn LRX, or 140gn Absolute Hammer
Die set: Redding 7x57Ackley 40 degree

Everything is on hand.

 

[p_ham]

So, build summary:

Action: Tikka T3X lite stainless
Trigger: Tikka T3X factory
Barrel: CarbonSix prefit 18" featherweight contour, 5/8"x24 threading, 1:9" twist
Chambering: 7x57AI
Stock: AG Composites carbon fiber Privateer inlet by Lee Freeman at Oregon Mountain Rifle (inlet to factory barrel dia. was done before I went with carbon barrel)
Botton Metal: Oregon Moutain Rifle Aluminum Tikka replacement Botton Metal
Magazine: Mountain Tactical Gen 2 billet long action mag
Rail: Murphy Precision Stainless picatinny
Scope rings: 30mm Seekins Precision or Vortex Pro, which ever is lighter/looks better
Scope: Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x44 Illum. TMOA ret.
Suppressor: Gemtech Tracker
Brass: Nosler 7x57 fireformed
Primers: CCI #200 large rifle
Powder: tbd but will start with H4350
Bullet: tbd but will be the best shooting of 140gn TTSX, 139gn LRX, or 140gn Absolute Hammer
Die set: Redding 7x57Ackley 40 degree

Good looking rifle. Should be a shooter! How long is that Gemtech?

 

[VikingsGuy]

Good looking rifle. Should be a shooter! How long is that Gemtech?

7.9" - 11oz. according to spec sheet

 

[Redside]

How's the project coming along @VikingsGuy? Any load development updates?

Curious, are you following Carbon6's barrel break-in? Seemed excessive to me, I will probably will do a hybrid of sorts. I just loaded my first rounds for my 7SAUM last night. Hoping to get to the range this weekend.

 

[Gunner46]

My 1st thought was a 7-08, but then......the 338 Fed has it's hand up, waving wildly, screaming " Ou, Ou, Ou pick me, pick me". There's a lot of thump in that little monster.

 

[VikingsGuy]

How's the project coming along @VikingsGuy? Any load development updates?

Curious, are you following Carbon6's barrel break-in? Seemed excessive to me, I will probably will do a hybrid of sorts. I just loaded my first rounds for my 7SAUM last night. Hoping to get to the range this weekend.

My focus has been on family, work, and cabin this spring so haven't gotten around to opening up the barrel channel, brass fireforming or load dev yet.

As for break-ins -- I have my own process. Hoppes patch down the barrel, dry patch down the barrel (get rid of any debris from manufacturing), fire a round, hoppes patch, dry patch (any debris loosened by first shot) and DONE. I have talked to a number of people who know much more about this than I and they say it is all BS and a waste of time and barrel life - and to the extent it is useful at all, it is with very low-quality barrels - that quality barrels really don't need it. But it has become a 16th century protestant vs catholic level of religious fury on this topic so I will leave to others their own approach.

 

[ImBillT]

Mar 4th update.

Got the barrel off the Tikka -- Good god are they unnecessarily tight. I never could get my woodblock insert in wheel barrel vise tight enough - even split one set. Didn't care about the factory barrel (and it was a fluted ultra-light version) so I cranked that down bare against the metal plates (the tops of the flutes created a flate plane) and it finally broke free.

Put the new barrel on and torqued to 70ftlbs. Easy peasy.

Took firing pin and ejector out of the bolt. Go gauge -- SUCCESS. The No Go gauge . . . . FAIL. Bolt still easily closed. Called the barrel vendor did some measuring of the chamber and turns out somebody put the wrong number in the CNC and they drilled the chamber 0.010" too deep. I am sending it back and they are doing it over.

A good reminder, never assume anything with firearms - always use your safety tools -- in this case the set of go/nogo gauges.

The story is still in progress.

Ditch the wood. Leather strap and pine rosin. If it slips, loosen, add rosin, go again. You’ll get it to bite without resorting to metal on metal.

 

[Redside]

My focus has been on family, work, and cabin this spring so haven't gotten around to opening up the barrel channel, brass fireforming or load dev yet.

As for break-ins -- I have my own process. Hoppes patch down the barrel, dry patch down the barrel (get rid of any debris from manufacturing), fire a round, hoppes patch, dry patch (any debris loosened by fit shot) and DONE. I have talked to a number of people who know much more about this and they say it is all BS and a waste of time and barrel life - and to the extent it is useful at all, it is with very low-quality barrels - that quality barrels really don't need it. But it has become a 16th century protestant vs catholic level of religious fury on this topic so I will leave to others their own approach.

Agreed, I'm leaning more towards what your doing.

 

[mrjashu]

Maybe I missed it in the thread, what is the final weight on this beauty?